Perspiration..And..Yes! Staying Dry..

 ...how to make your own good looking, Cozy and Dry, durable, lightweight memory foam coat for about 25$ so you stay comfortable indoors year round! .. And how to easily stay cool in the heat... Safer and Cheaper More Reliable Than a 200$ Electric Coat..Beautiful, will never crash etc.

Plus the only method I've ever seen that keeps me cozy outdoors in cold weather.

Here I'll also discuss how to save 100 and more a month in summer by using a nylon or polyester outfit to retain moisture indoors and a cheap simple DEEP COOL method using ice in a juice jug for outside.. (see end of post). 

Disclaimer

 This site isn't designed to prevent  diagnose, treat or cure any illness. This site is for information only. See your doctor before making any changes in lifestyle.

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SERVICE NOTICE; how to save your eyes from damage by your cell phone. Sites like WebMD say that myopia is dramatically on the rise. Overuse is up to 11 hours a day for most people on their cell phones and it's been found to be harmful after 2 hours. My solution has been to text to speech and speech to text plus timer boxes to time offline and this can convert what was otherwise stressful to your eyes and brain to a much more satisfying result as satisfying as talking and listening! This doesn't cause much harm and I really recommend that you use this method to read my page or think of EULA's those darn terms of service because you're going to feel much better about it if you do! IF YOU LIKE CLICK THE LINK AT THE END OF MY PAGE OR Here's the like link

 https://your-ancientchipshiner.blogspot.com/2020/06/menu-word-of-more-breath-ahh_28.html?m=1

 MyHigh 

So Slow Speed Link!

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First here I want to say that there's a reason for your  miserable cold feet in November.  Your feet put out several pints of moisture a day and unlike like walking on sunshine It can be a pain!

I found why after research for years by my own discovery; this is because wet  insulation radiates out heat 20 times more than dry!

 The heat just radiates right out through your boot...a lot of heat all day.  I know of people who were miserable in the air conditioning all year round, and it's quite cool to share this victory memory I have earned with relatives and felines! (Small cat boots would save them from parking lot chemicals and a dog controlled shower in the heat might cool the dog and help the cat for months. Cats are comfy at 85 only, great for the cat days of summer but not the dog days and a dry layer cat coat maybe a real Christmas present you might make for your Christmas cat, they can only see red and green and Santa let the cat out of the bag!)

I guarantee you if you have cold feet once you try the dry layer method you may never go back to doing without it in the wintertime, or the miserable spring and fall that rewind the weather map either- hopefully up at any rate! On this page I'll show you how to use tricks also to make coats, hats, and even how to reverse the same method for summer (like by the polyester cooling shirt) so you may save  several hundred dollars a year on air conditioning in the summer and this can dramatically reduce your misery In the winter as I'll say here.

To heat a house of eight rooms all these methods can save you about $3,000 a year in air conditioning and heating costs and they're quite comfortable, or comfortable enough for me.

As Promised Above Here's How To Save Heat...

...When I was in my 20's I thought it was going to just be 3 months till I was comfortable about winter, to my dismay it went on for literally 25 years saving heat till I found the real solutions I will show you here. In other words, the solutions here are literally like 100s of times more powerful to use at any rate in terms of how fast you may feel cozy, (and cheap!) like to save heat, especially the PUL polyurethane laminate fabric like for motorcycle jackets for wind and waterproofing with the dry layer between..

 I use the dry layer method for a coat and also the waterproofing layers like this for rain and wind.

For my feet I found using two waterproofing layers like ice bags which you can get cheap for $20 for 50 of them, combined with a dry layer which for me is a heavy boot sock is dramatically warmer for warm feet. They may be slightly moist but so you are on a hot day and you can stay completely cozy.

Like a lot of people I was originally using SmartWool socks but these are licensed so now the price is going up to like 30 or $40 I'd seen some for a $50 a pair or more. Smartwool socks are pretty good and they are reasonably durable but they do tear up after three or four years. They have bad odor that this method doesn't and the socks virtually never wear out if you get heavy polyester boots socks. I'm out of the SmartWool SNAFU and another $50 and they don't work nearly as good as this. If you like to stop air conditioning this is a good enough but they have odor but if you want to save heat in the winter or just go outside without being miserable are highly recommend the dry layer method. A dry layer is dramatically warmer and I use it with neoprene shoes with rubber soles so they don't wear out like neoprene soles do in 2 days.

I bought some Guide Gear neoprene shoes for about $32. The company that makes Guide Gear Sportsman's Guide is the world's largest Army Navy store. And while these neoprene shoes with durable rubber soles look cool and you never have to tie them, they stretch right on, they actually wear out after three or four years.

 My solution here is to buy shoe soles like 4 mm and put them inside so when it wears through it doesn't show on the top and as long as my foot is completely shielded and waterproof and windproof (when I jog at 300 mph!) this is a much cheaper way to have warm toasty feet. Just like $1.50 a year including the price of the sole which is like $20 and it might keep your feet shielded for 50 months.

$20 for 50 months or perhaps $0.40 a month...

..and the ice bags which wear out these actually last for about a month and a half or two.. or three ice bags a month since I like to to jump around and walk on my shoe a lot! So 50 ice bags for $17 will last you for about 17 months, or just a dollar a month for much better comfort. I think my bags are 1.5 mil, not so thick they mar your foot yet thin enough to be waterproof.

A bit more searching and you can buy 100 10 lb 2 mm (durable) ice bags on Amazon for just 20$ more than twice the value.

 So you see the total cost might be $1.40 or .70 cents a month, but when you consider the comfort level it's like about 150 times better than other methods for the value.

 For an extra cozy heat shield on cold days you can also have enough room in your shoe if you get like four sizes larger than you usually wear and you can get a layer like EVA plastic like I salvaged from my raincoat.. 

A brief summary of my methods.

Winter warm feet

I use a dry layer like a heavy boot sock between two waterproofing layers inside the shoe. This is used with a simple base layer like a sock.

One of the waterproofing layers is a bootie cut from a 3 mil poly sheet I got from my nearby agricultural supply store a nearby urban rural area of busines!

 The sheet is 3×25 feet for just 8 bucks but they insulate just right for toasty feet when used with some socks and the ice bag. These are more durable and they insulate warmer than Ice bags so 18$ of these sheets may be a lifetime supply. (When used with shoes 4 times your size, more than one layer of the poly sheet booties with make your toes hurt so I use a hybrid of both ice bags and these booties.)

This is good enough to use outside. 

For a really major toasty boot up...

Use a tennis shoe that will go in the dryer and toast it up for about 2 minutes and then you put it inside of a memory foam booty you can make with paper tape wrapped around two or three times "duct tape is poisonous when wet"

Finally put the tennis shoe and the memory foam booty of 1/8 inch (1/2 inch won't fit) inside NEOS overshoes which are nylon over shoes to go over boots (Neos have vibram soles about $40 used on eBay while the used is often high level value we are so rich in so many ways I hope).

This method is great for around the house and maybe viable partially for walking around a mile but maybe no more.

Here's the eBay page for these overshoes..

sch/i.html?_nkw=neos+overshoes&_trksid=p4432023.m4084.l1311

Or Click Here if you like..

An easier method to keep your feet warm most days when it's not so cold like 50° outside is merely to take your tennis shoes and put them in the dryer and use them with the dry layer method. I use foam tennis shoes, they go in the dryer for about 4 minutes and I use my microwave oven to time it because anything's better than microwavable health socks, these like a skunk in the river who stank to the bottom no this won't stink up the house and only keep you warm for about 15 minutes and then you're miserably wet and cold. You can't wear these inside your shoes and there we go another $20 unless you simply put your foam base tennis shoes with insulated cloth like I use in the dryer and I use my microwave as a timer, time and temperature weather dryer control has arrived! So my shoes are in the dryer for three or four minutes.. you might not want to do any more than this and I don't recommend using leather tennis shoes which are not not considered to be viable for the dryer. Mine 

are soft foam with insulated cloth. You may want to check for safety first. Note that due to the waterproofing poly layers foot odor is more like perfume and the skunk cant stamp its feet in defeat! A win win!

The tennis shoes and dry layer for this are without the outer memory foam and overshoe shield. While this foam booties with tennis shoes from dryer method is super toasty and goes on all day, it's also overheating at the first and generally more clunky and about twice as expensive and just using your tennis shoe in the dryer with the dry layer method for inside your shoe works just great for most days, so I use the memory foam booties with the overshoes only on a 20 or 30 degree day. This fits the fashion after all anyone knows how you look cozy like mom! And asin the old BC days before computers they ask do you want to save your work? Sure it just took hours! And you won't overheat on 50 degree days. More awesome than the 90s!

Since it costs about a dollar an hour to operate your clothes dryer if you spend 5 minutes a day heating your boots and who doesn't wear boots and memory foam when they win at Wimbledon! It's 1/12 of a dollar a day or just eight cents which is far cheaper than chemical foot warmers better for the ecology we presume and also unlike chemical warmers or other warmers that go like 2 hours and you're miserable again, once you toast them up they stay cozy all day. This is just $2.40 a month cozy both outside and in all over..

One possible option is to buy a quilted microfiber blanket for about $30 you can get on Amazon and cut it and sew to fit into a pair of large size pants. I'm trying this out right away and my Prime order may have arrived a month ago of sumdays. While microfiber sewn quilted blankets you can cut to make into good pants maybe lightweight, I'm not sure how much or how clunky the other option which I'm sure at least will be somewhat lighter are electric heated pants.

On Amazon the ones that are good get five star ratings all the way down because you can sit on metal and they are truly 10,000,000,000% heat! You want to try getting them with the battery sold with the pants because the cheap ones without their own battery pretend that you can use a cell phone battery power. This is a cheap way to travel to the left coast of Egyptorica because cell phone batteries have a built-in overheat limit feature that makes them work like 4 minutes and they stop unless you're using them for the cell phone.

While I don't use electric coats or vests because they just weren't warm enough for the value too tough for do it myself and they only heat your back in a narrow area, and while adding memory foam patches to the back of your coat and electric arm warmers into the coat sleeves of a microfiber coat works quite well indeed and even too hot, when you combine this with the memory foam boots with the tennis shoes inside too it's heavy to walk far if you also use like bib overalls or even perhaps quilted microfiber blankets sewn into pants. So to keep your outfit from getting too heavy you may want to go for the electric pants even while the electric coat is too wet and cold.. Actually it's just an electric vest and you may not usually get a microfiber coat with it which is much drier anyway when you use it with the electric hand warmers inside the sock and in your sleeve. Not recommended are the microfiber blankets for pants. These are as heavy as bibs and way more clucky that electric pants. 

Electric pants are far better when combined with microfiber coats and the dry layer method for your coat since the overall weight is moderate.

I thought it was going to be kind of tedious to put my hand warmers inside the electric socks inside the coat each morning but each night it takes about 2 minutes to set them up and only three or four minutes to put them in the coat sleeve if you do it by an assembly line method if you turn it inside out one arm at a time first one then the other. 

For warm legs

Originally I was using memory foam patches inside of bib overalls and these are great if you're not wearing a heavy coat but I really do like wearing my microfiber coat with electric pocket warmer heaters. And I couldn't get my bibs on over this heavier light coat so my favorite method is the coat and the heaters in it with heaters inside my pants and wear heavy enough pants to walk around in. By walking around if your feet are warm as you see here with the dry layer method or Etc with good enough heat from the heaters into your legs you're also portable all around where you go!

For warm hands 

you want to use your own body heat by putting memory foam patches in your coat and your hand is between patch and you. Inside your pocket you may like oven mitts and I use memory foam patches inside of these to make them not wear out as fast and for more warmth and dryness.

Like with the boots the trick here is just to toast oven mitts over the burner of the stove taking care to never get close enough to catch fire or spark (with memory foam it's not much of a filter you puff on it's solid gasoline although they put fire retardants in it.)

 I'm assuming you if you do this right there's little chance that the burner would ignite the other mitt. If you go slowly in and out of the burner area and download the heat into one pocket before its too hot while you repeat while you do the same for the other hand this usually won't overheat. Even so no smoking and always be sure to check for no sparks.You might want to use an air dryer like perhaps a boot dryer.

Or if you're a postal worker or work in agricultural business you might want to use the heater of your car this we have both warm and dry air. You do at your own risk..I've never had it catch fire once for myself but other people aren't necessarily as good and amazing as I am at tricks majic tricks like this my fat has removed by my power lifts.

 Once you have toasted your mitten up if you feel like living a wild life perhaps and drinking milk right straight out of the jug..! For me at any rate right now right away I then put it right into my insulated pocket and this holds the heat inside for hours first powered by the heat and then powered by me by the insulating foam heating loop.

Instead of using oven mitts to warm your pockets inside of memory foam from the burner of the stove a lot of people might like to use electric hand warmers. Even if you sew them into socks in your pocket so you don't "drop them as above" they may be too hot on your hands even at the lowest settings if you use the brand I use on the link. So for electric hand warmers to warm your pockets the best method might be sew a long sock inside your base layer where the heater will reach down to your pocket area. This not only heats your hand when you want it also doesn't overheat and heats the rest of your chest as you move it around. Remember if you're not completely cozy just buy more hand warmers and sew more socks into your outfit. This works just great for indoors with a microfiber coat on the outside and outside of outside you want to doff the microfiber coat which is somewhat wet and replace it with the waterproofing coats and the dry layer like another microfiber coat between the two waterproofing coats "like PVC."  .

 For a warm coat and general warm up  other than by the memory foam bibs etc

As I say I highly recommend electric pocket warmers you can get for about $13 each on Amazon. Since these can easily drop if you break them you want to sew thin synth socks into a durable thick wicking base layer both pants coat and hat if you like. If your heaters burn try more layers and an even warm heat.

The pocket warmers go inside the socks so you don't drop them and the socks are about 8 in when you cut them so that you can flop them around in area 8 in in radius from where you sew them on the base layer like a thicker microfiber light jacket I have and rotate them. (Before I was using a line to the pocket warmer and trying to raise it and lower it up and down my sleeves with the lines tied to a clip and a key ring on the front of my coat but these lines got all tangled up So the socks work real well.)

I sewed the ends of the sock where you put in and out the hand warmer since you fit it around the warmer then sew it at this point so it's tight enough that it won't fall out by accident when you have it upside down like in the cuff of your coat or when you started up in the a.m. but even so you also have it so you can actually remove it from the sock to charge the heaters at the end of the day. For added security you can also sew a line or tie a line to a clip that you clip to the sock like with the key ring so you stop all risk of a drop of your heater when in use.

Then on top of this I highly recommend a microfiber coat you can get good looking ones they're fuzzy like microfiber blankets or cooling towels.

 Finally for the outer layer you may have to sew your own large size waterproofing wind proofing layer I highly recommend polyurethane laminate PUL sheets you can buy online.

Indoors you only want to wear the heaters in the microfiber coat outdoors you also want to wear the PUL layer.

Except for severe weather your tennis shoes using the dry layer you will find can be more than good enough for your cozy eventuality and you don't need the somewhat "semi pseudo" clunk  boots except for the worst weather.

 For the toastiest outdoors I've seen using the dry layer and also having an outer layer memory foam inside your outer coat to radiate out the heat and back in, the same trick can be used, a thin wicking base layer, a first waterproofing layer like a durable laminated PVC coat (non laminated PVC will tear) then for the dry layer you might want to use a thinner microfiber coat. The trick here is to put it in the dryer before you put it on above your waterproofing coat.

Most of you want all this to be large loose lightweight or thin coats. The heat goes for hours and if you use a heavy microfiber coat which is light if you just put it in the dryer for 3 minutes it's way too hot what a relief! Where to from here..Alaska! But seriously folks comedy needs no heavy lifting. In order to not have a real hot bulky coat that goes on for hours I recommend using a thinner dry layer and you can also just cut down on your dryer time. 

When I get back indoors and I take off my coats except for my wicking layer while saving heat and this is sometimes wet and miserable in the cold. Here a real good trick is to take your other microfiber coat and heat it up for a minute or two in the dryer. Once you're comfortable and dryer so you don't have to wear a big outfit use your outfit like your base layer with the hand warmers inside it's just great for the indoors but not outside as much. Outdoors you don't get as much breathability by these methods but at least you're toasty and warm by the heated dry layer and waterproofing layers especially with the quilted microfiber base layer from a blanket you can buy on Amazon for 30 dollars and this is the best yet I've seen. Better than the best yet I've seen with my zoom holiday resolve is actually two layers of microfiber quilted blabkets.

 Since if you're like me most of the time you're indoors I highly recommend using the hand warmers in socks inside your thick wicking durable base layer and no outside coat.  Breathability when available is a major part of your defense against weather indoors and why this is going to be more miserable than outdoors for me because I'm spending 3/4 of my time inside. The best thing I can find for toastiness outdoors is the heated dry layer that radiates into the castle method where your radiate into the wall of your foam castle and back out by using the heated dry layers so you're toasty all over and you don't lose your heat by way of the windproofing waterproofing layers combined with the heated dry layer and the memory foam.

Warm hat

 for this I recommend a microfiber pillow case from a microfiber sheet set, or for heavy weather a wrapped tube of microfiber sheets like a muffler.. This wraps around your ears and is soft warm and super wicking and also keeps out the wind much better than most polyester by far or by fur! (Fur is worthless as any other method I tried at least it's just the same because it gets miserably cold and wet in an hour or two and it doesn't warm back up. Microfiber sheets are much higher level stuff.)

 I was using socks for the heaters but this was clunky and the heaters would fall. As in india shaking your head means yes! Am I an opthamogist will be in 1000! As with the coat on the outside you want a waterproofing windproof layer. This can be PVC, EVA, or PUL, a mouthful of foam! 

To shield your face around the front a neoprene mask is not recommended it's cold and clammy instead I just wrap the microfiber sheets around my face and tie them.

 Blankets and sleep

for this I recommend microfiber blankets and not just when I'm awake! These cost quite a bit more but they're about a third higher heat sleeping bags. I got mine and found out about them from the consignment shop for just $10 each in a heat wave in the August! I'll always be eternally thanking them for helping me save on AC. Microfiber blankets also don't overheat much like some blankets do.  These blankets are super wicking and have soft even heat. Be sure to pay a few dollars more for flat looking stacked blankets not the flimsy ones covered up by wrinkles. They should not seem flimsy or you aren't getting as much insulation.

Here's a spot from Amazon;

You can buy several layers of presewn Woovie military poncho blanket liners and while as I say below the army knows this well and these are thick enough to insulate but thin enough to breathe, you can't get one of these blankets for 50 on Ebay and they are just like 3 times reduced in insulation so you have to pay at least 150 for them on Amazon in the rain forest with camo. Buying premade ponchos from Endurance Survival is 70 or more or 210 and they are just camo so they stand out in a rainstorm. But the microfiber blankets are just 30 for an outfit and a half or more and I like the dark teal I got, it blends in so much better than camo in the heat in Oct!

For pants and lighter weather I just wear several layers of pants.

Finally I want to talk about the Base layer. My favorite layer of all time is a hen.. And also microfiber sheets which you can buy in sheet sets. The best are quilted microfiber blankets.  I sewed these into my own shirt or jacket and these are level on you so they don't have air leaks so much and they're super wicking and comfortable if you use them use them with outer insulative layers. 

 Another base layer that got the highest rating with me is the RainLeaf cooling towel like 40 in  great for mild weather which is large enough to make pants or your shirt. This is the most comfortable I'd felt in all my life or more!

 

Far cheaper than  something like SmartWool and  if you're like me and can't remember where you bought what because I've got a lot of outfits for example these are easy to replace just buy more microfiber sheets or blankets and sew them back up and you're good to go and you've always got a good base layer no matter what.

I also highly recommend sewing memory foam patches into the back of your second wicking heavy base layer like a polyester shirt (the one with the sock heaters sewn in) so you can use this heat for many types of outfits. And also another like 2-ft patch sewn into the base of your pants second base layer the same way. I found that I couldn't easily put memory foam into my sleeves or the entire legs of my pants, this is way too clunky and tough to get in and out of.

Just putting memory sew foam in the seat of your pants and coat can help your heat go about a third especially  with the heaters. Be prepared to wear extra large pants and a larger coat around the memory foam though. 

For cooling like in 3 months 3 months ago! I also have many clever tricks like using the dry layer  in reverse for cooling as you'll see CLICK HERE or you can see my same link and bottom of site if you like .

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The two main methods I use above are what I call the dry layer method, my own solution you may like if you allow as I say and heating the insulation from the inside like with the heaters which are the tennis shoes in the dryer that radiates back into your foot or hand or coat or the electric hand warmers inside your coat.

The heater inside coat goes all the way back to ye old 1300s when they had a walk-in fireplace that had a brick wall in the back of it and the heat would radiate into the brick wall and then reradiate back into the castle all night. This method was forgotten for hundreds of years but basically if you have insulation like in the outside for your pockets your feet your hat or your coat and you have heaters inside that work this is awesome for staying cozy inside or out. I'm hot all the way round!

Unlike the fireplace method you also have wicking for your solution. And the dry layer method is both for your feet and coat outside.

 

 The hand warmers I bought are 7000 Mah and Mah measures the amount of water the tank will hold, voltage is the amount of pressure on the faucet current is how much fluid flows through the faucet etc.

I originally bought Ocoopa 1200 Mah hand warmers but these other ones I bought the second time are $7,000 Mah and they last all day at low heat often with 30% to spare.

Click Here for the Amazon page

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CDPWBD3X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

While these are called 14,000 Mah they're actually only 7,000 each even so this is almost 6 times the Mah the other brand has "Ocoopa" I tried first for just a few dollars more and they heat well..

Even so I like these because they light up and display how much power is left and what heat setting you're on and you can see right through the sock to change it if you read it in the shade.

 Note that the big button is not the power button which is on the right above. I was thinking of sending them back till I found this button and right! I found the reset button for my life and celebration in 1987!

You may quickly find celebration that this gives too much heat at the second heat setting so I tend to fire up in the morning with my microfiber coat which breathes without the dryer method with the L2 setting which is only on one side not both like H1 or H2 and then once I get hot enough I turn it to the lowest heat setting for the rest of the day.

 For outdoors in the cold in the snow the same but I take off my microfiber coat and put on a PVC top coat over my base wicking layer with the heaters inside and then another microfiber coat for the dry layer and finally an outer waterproofing windproofing layer like PUL. The dry layer coat is for outdoors mostly and it works especially well with the heaters! Indoors you want breathability wicking, heat inside and a good base layer.

While I'd been searching for these methods for 30 years most of my progress I made in the last 3 years. You can retrace my tracks in about 3 months with about $300 which is how much people usually spend on winter frustration every year and you may only have  to spend it once. Usually a good heated vest costs 200$ Like Hammacher Schliemer but they don't heat your arms. My sister bought me a heated coat for 120$ but it was mildly warm and got wet like other coats in an hour which is much tougher to heat. You can get much warmer heaters as above for just 60$ and heat much larger area great for going to rallies if your kid is a football hero or if you do agricultural Christmas lawn tree trimming! And your heating bill goes down a lot because most people in research say their heating bill is horrifying, right to avoid electric shock open the envelope with the electric bill in a calm relaxing way! My landlord makes me turn up the heat to about 57 but outdoors they don't say I have to save heat! I'm alive audience most months year round!

 

  Even so you may want to find ways of earning more money in general since in research 27% say the word that best describes them in winter is "miserable" and about 37% say they are bored. These methods of staying warm are a way to defend us here and now even so for more cool cash to be cozy like by investing in rare and collectible coins for which thousands have gotten rich a more general solution is also possible. CLICK HERE for more or see the same link at the end of the page.

For some reason I don't know what the dry layer method works well for my feet all day but not my coat.. it gets wet.

PS good news! I found for indoors two microfiber coats work just awesome. While I was in moderate comfort for years while not in pain like for my legs or hands, my arms were consistently cold and wet especially after exercise. I didn't find this solution at first because it takes two of these coats to wick away out. But they are super for the value..

 Also the handwarmer heaters don't work in the boots that well because they don't give a general enough heat and they're like a lump in your sock.

PS here I found this wasn't so also if I also use tennis shoes in the memory foam both inside the overshoe. The pocket warmer can jog outside the shoe and yet the overshoe fastens around the outside of the pocket warmer and the shoe with a smug fit if the boss celebrates your self defense by comfort! I found I could walk a mile or more in these while I didn't need the pocket warmers with the memory foam they may be a nice option for you I hope.

If you are without walking like around the house this may be of worth.

Even so on a miserable day or just first aid from hypothermia you may want to go right to your best defense, the tennis shoes in the dryer in the memory foam booties in the overshoes. This is more optimal than being hauled off without selvage or salvage.

For warm cozy feet the best method for me is tennis shoes out of the dryer inside of memory foam booties plus NEOS overshoes combined with dry layer socks inside the shoes indoors and for near travels outdoors (or if you're willing to pay 30 more in a year or two as the NEOS wear out) for more outdoors use the dry layer shoe method works great. For the coat indoors I use the heaters inside the socks (sewn inside my coat) inside a thick wicking base layer and then a cozy warm microfiber coat to even out the Heat and give soft warm heat that wraps around.

 For indoors the dry layer method is not as good for the coat yet is fine for the shoes. For the indoors the heaters and a wicking coat are best for me. But for outside the heaters with the wicking layer plus the dry layer method are awesome.

EVA makes a really good raincoat and you can get them cheap but you want to get one of medium thickness not the cheap $6 duds from the discount store. These are too flimsy to wear as a raincoat if you get like 2 mil EVA it makes a toasty warm heat shield by your sock for the dry layer. You can make this into a booty in a few seconds just with some tape like transparent packing tape (duct tape is rumored to be poison when wet).

You may have seen waterproof socks made of EVA plastic online and these are expensive and tough to find but they advertise them in the reviews! And here they say they're actually too warm and they overheat like in the rain in the heat or just for general use.

 One good thing about EVA as a heat shield is that EVA is quite stretchy. Provided you have EVA that's not too thick or thin so it won't tear it also fits smugly around your foot but it's not a pain and you will never be snubbed.

You're from the N if you ever had your tongue stuck on a weather map! The weather map is a road in Canada! I wrote a condensed history of Canada All There Is Is Up Up Up! 

 

 

ABOUT THE REST OF THE OUTFIT

 

For reasons I'll discuss for my arms at any rate I use layers of cheap durable thin microfiber sheets.

 

 Outdoors you can achieve complete windproofing waterproofing plus antibacterial and breathability with light weight good looks  and low cost with polyurethane laminate PUL laminate, for redundancy more than twice twice! These are the waterproofing layers.. between them I use a lightweight dry insulation layer, I highly recommend a thick microfiber coat between the PUL sandwich layers for the coat on the worst winter days.

 Other days I'd found that as long as I have the outer PUL layer, the inner super wicking layers are enough to keep warm enough with no problem for perhaps up to an hour outside. 

 For more than a half hour to an hour outside especially in the more extreme windy weather with snow or rain I always use two sets of PUL layers an outer layer and Inner PUL liner with the dry layer microfiber coat between and the base layer are microfiber sheets like for sleeves that I've sewn to my memory foam vest I bought once by luck.. This was how I found out about memory foam itself.

 Using the dry layer method with the base layer like this is the only thing I've ever found that will stand up to both cold and wind and rain more than an half an hour to an hour outside. If you have to do outdoors activities or just want a feeling of accomplishment like I have this method can allow you for many more hours of reduced pain, and comfort!

 Pul for the waterproofing layers for the coat has all the advantages of goretex but it's much cheaper and you don't have to recharge it each month with "the who knows what brand" chemical the goretex company promotes.

The reason PU Laminate like synth motorcycle jacket leather is much easier to find than a 100% PolyUrethane sheet is because PU itself is not durable as when it's combined with the laminate a layer perhaps made of polyester.

Unlike Goretex PU memory foam is also insulative and it has another value feature, a heat pumping loop other liners lack . Dry PU foam at any rate (like a vest I got Combined with a PUL outer layer) pumps out moisture,  which dries you and warms you and this then pumps out more moisture that then dries and warms you more... especially with the outer windproof PUL layer when you're outside "like much or dramatically more" just by keeping the foam dry and this is my discovery you might like.  Once I found  that the dry  layer method works so well between two waterproofing layers I found I can use a real light dry layer.. I stopped using memory foam for the dry layer (except indoors were it's more of a treasure and not one half inch but rather 1/4 inch sew foam PUL with polyester backing for stability so it won't bunch up or tear inside the coat or bibs.. this works really great for saving heat without the huge clunk! 1/2 inch actually overheats when you're saving heat indoors. And unlike the 1/4 inch it's real clunky otherwise and you can't move around in it. Even so I like layers of microfiber sheets the best because they are less bulky so I can wear them all the time). I was wearing the pieces of PU too tight and this is often a real uncomfortable way to walk and when I just made my outfit fit with sheets and the bibs the PU itself would work fo a great liner for the bibs and it sounds good doesn't it?

I haven't tried SmartWool for the dry layer like this, it may be far better than all else, at least if it didn't shrink and mine did after about a year so I salvaged it and used it to make durable cozy glove liners. Even so if you buy a thick smart wool sweater, be warned that it may shrink and you may have to sew to salvage it by like cutting a line down the sleeve and then sewing more smartwool in that line if you want real smart wool genuinish schmoozing.

I got a smartwool sweater like this from eBay and a site called Cashmeres by Kate for about $30 and it's much thicker smartwool than usual and much cheaper.

You can't just buy smartwool sheets and sew your own outfits because it's licensed.

This is the only use I have left of smartwool and that is to form a cuff liner I've sewn to my sleeves my wrists don't hurt, and also perhaps for a good mitten liner. All other  uses of smartwool even including socks I've now replaced even for warm feet with the dry layer method as I'll discuss here or with memory foam (PU sew foam) in my bibs and vest and microfiber sheets (pillowcase for the sheet set) for the hat and sleeve liners, this is far cheaper than smartwool and works much better. What Slurpee can best this much foam at the mouth! 

 Smartwool base layers will cost you about $140 or more including socks even from closeouts and instead this will cost you 40 for the bibs (insulated recommended to even out the memory foam coziness) and about 25 for the (polyester Backed for durability) sew foam. For my coat sleeves I used a 25$ microfiber sheet set. Smartwool like this you would need buy like five layers, for 700!

This is one good reason to seek other materials,  microfiber sheets are thick wicking polyester that does work as a base layer or a dry layer and if I forget to wear the outer layer they'e mostly windproof far more than something like a polyester coat. The best I've found yet are four layers of microfiber sheets for my sleeves. More might even better I don't know yet.

 Or perhaps with other outfits like in the spring and fall two layers might be best.

 For my outdoor coat for the dry layer before I used a heavy duty cotton insulated blue jeans jacket with a a PUL windproofing waterproofing jacket outside of that and a nylon decorative outer shell coat. Even without using the inner waterproofing layer, this cotton PUL nylon shell coat is great for like a windy dry day at 40°. For the worst weather and or being outdoors for long periods in addition to my base layer I also use outside of it (inside the dry layer and outside the base layer as the 2nd layer out)  a waterproofing windproofing layer that's easy to put off and on unlike PUL which is more stretchy. For this I use an EVA raincoat, cheap durable, easy to get in and out of and it's the most wimp proof and waterproof of any liner I'd seen for this. Avoid the noid! Mostly though you don't have to sew it like you have to do for the outer windproofing waterproofing layer of PUL. You won't be able to get your outer waterproofing layer to fit without making your own. And what about a spin umbrella  that spins in the rain with fins powered by the cyclone, weather control is such a celebration!

Usual memory foam is too floppy like a memory foam bed liner and I needed a  more durable memory foam.  I used what's  called sew foam in my million month earlier evolution of these methods with a polyester layer for stability used in upholstery, this is flat on your skin. So it has large areas where the wind reaches right in outside and it was wet in the wind or at any rate it radiates out the steam around the edge and is uncomfortable outdoors. For the bibs, the other insulation they have which is minor for insulation compared to with PU foam paneIs blends in and evens out the warmth, so here the wet cold areas around the edges are solved.. so I wear memory foam in my bib overalls outdoors or indoors and this works just awesome all the time or anytime you want great relief. Even so while adding memory foam patches to your bibs and into the lining of your coats is a real fast way to warm up easily a lot if you're saving heat it's still pretty clunky and I don't recommend walking long distances with this outfit on and while it's really cozy like nothing else for the value certainly it can damage your ankles if you walk a long distance in them.

 THE ONE THING YOU CAN DO TO HEAT UP THE FASTEST AND THE EASY WAY..yet there's more!

Wearing the memory foam bibs with PU foam (sew foam) patches stuffed between the liner and memory foam jacket is the way to be MUCH warmer or especially the memory bibs with the microfiber lined jackets. This one trick with the memory foam bibs is the fast most way to cover the most area with heat, this method is the best simple thing you can use for winter value.. 

Even so you also need the dry layer for your feet, after all cold feet are..cold feet..

 This is especially true if you're like me, others are tremendous- me I'm just a hero!

 The best kind of PUL for the price I got from a site on Etsy called Mama Bear baby bear.

This PUL turns out to be more waterproof and is also more insulated at $12 for 1 yd by like 57 in sheet.

 

By using a double layer of this kind of PUL each for the waterproofing layer outside of the dry layer this makes it dry enough that if you make it large enough also it may make the sew foam viable and this might have major value if the real reason I couldn't walk in the foam before was because it was just too tight. Eventually I just found that 1/4-in sew foam arm warmers in tubes bound by thin bands of duct tape was the a good  solution for arm warmers, it's super dry and cozy and warm inside. Even so as I'll say the bestm method I found later is to cut lines in the insulation layer of bibs and simply stuff the memory sew foam patches between the liner and the outside layer, and this can heat up your temperature dramatically overall with just 10 minutes of this type of bib and coat improvement event. This covers you 3/4 with insulation in just 10 minutes..Even so your feet,  your hands and your head will still be in pain by methods most people use and I'll show you how to quickly solve this also with tricks it's taken me sometimes 30 years to learn..

The Etsy PUL I bought does work well for like polyester for the dry layer, this I know, and the strongest energy in the cosmos is compound appreciation or will be, right!

The answer turns out to be for warm shoes-so you don't have a day out of a month of comfort more why not a month of radar-a dry layer, you don't even need much of a base wicking layer. Common socks will do (though a dry wicking base layer like Smartwool with it is even better)...I use a simple heavy light brown common polyester sock for my dry layer and this goes between two waterproofing layers like poly bags so it keeps it dry. I've used this method for a couple of years and it's quite toasty. More recently I realized that a more advanced method is to perhaps use a smart wool sock for the base layer and the same waterproofing layers.

 

I've even tried two dry layers with three waterproofing layers sandwiched in hopes redundancy would keep them dry from leaks with three waterproofing layers and at any rate getting under a cozy microfiber blanket in these shoes while I do something like reading or writing really does toast up reliably in a few minutes.

 Best of all for waterproofing layers is to simply buy 10 lb ice bags like for heat waves, right just right!

This use of ice bags to keep your dry layer dry is no accident.

I went through using bread bags (work but wear out in a day, PUL booties I'd sewn (not waterproof enough and too tight if so)), 3 mil poly sheets in a roll cheap from the agricultural supply store near our urban area, these don't flex and damage my toes because they were thick. I tried thicker EVA salvaged from rain coats and while EVA stretches so it's not too tight these needed sewing so they leaked and they wore out in a week.

 So the ice bags (buy as thick as you can afford like 21$ for 50 bags on Amazon; the cheaper bags are flimsy) are premade so they need no sewing, easy to find in your sock shelf, Hey, Ice Bags! If my feet felt like blocks of ice they'll cancel out! But more than anything else they work reliably for warm cozy feet..

 After I found that the waterproofing dry layer method works it took me 2 more years of research to find how to reliably have warm feet with ice bags for the waterproofing layers.

 Once you have the ice bags in reach and if you find your feet are still cold on some days all you have to do is double your dry layers, works awesome.

 Above all for warm toasty feet, as your soul will rise, keep them DRY. You want to start with anothet dry layer each morning because even you get a bit moist overnight. 10 lb ice bags are dramatically warmer than say PUL booties I'd sewn because with most of them some moisture got through and this is enough to make your feet miserable. And the other booties were either tight or flimsy.

To patch your ice bags (they'll leak in like a month of heavy use like exercise like if you walk to stay fit) I highly recommend heavy transparent packing tape (not duct tape poison when wet). This forms an awesome flat seal to stop the leak. It doesn't even leak and might make your ice bags last two months so you save. To find if they leak simply blow them up before you wear them (or at night so they dry out overnight and there's no moisture in them in the morning to keep your foot cool).  It's important to test for leaks since your foot misery is much more comfortable! If you keep the DRY LAYER DRY! Even so because it takes a month for the bags to leak you don't have to see if they leak for like the first month of each go round as you might patch these bags before you restart with another set. With the patches these might cost you just 25 cents a pair for 2 months or so if you use just one set of ice bags and use like waterproof shoes or dry weather for your outside dry layer. Yes rain has use of the sluice. For miserable weather the outer icebag layer with the dry layer and inner layer is highly recommended.

Another method of adding life for your soles is use a moderate tight soft shoe that won't rub your socks.

Also note if you exercise you can take off the dry layer and wear other shoes so the heavy wear like walking is reduced.

One good thing you can do with electric hand warmers is you can easily make a cheap heated coat  and heat your feet with them and even make a cheap pair of heated pants.

 For my shoes I bought a pair of neoprene with rubber soled Guide Gear ankle high shoes for about $30. These have a simple clean look and they're easy to get on and off and they're insulated and lightweight.

These particular shoes have rubber soles not neoprene which lasts for about 3 days before it wears out while rubber soles 

last for about 3 years. 

To make them heated I use the dry layer socks then cut a 3-in line from the ankle down the center of the top of the shoes.

Inside of this you'll put your foot heaters I use the Ocoopa brand chinese brand! By cutting a notch in the top of your shoe you make it so that you can fit the hand warmer in without so much terrible pain to your feet if you also add in a sock layer.

The sock layer will cushion your foot and this also keeps the Ocoopa from falling out.

The problem of falling out can be a major issue because I bought my first hand warmers years ago and I thought at first they  wouldn't work because I soon dropped these cheap ones and they crashed. What I've done is cut the tip off the toe of my socks and this holds your hand warmer in your shoe without falling out. The trick here just to sew the sock so that it's got a tight seal and this makes it so the only way it'll fall out is if you stretch it a lot to then finally squeeze it through.

Then all you have to do is attach the to the top inside of your shoe inside the notch.

To make the shoe look better because it's got sort of complexity at the top center you can either sew the sock on with heavy thread or use the key rings and so sort of tongue with three sides was like awl twine thread see below for more about sewing (waxed awl twine is much easier to thread doesn't snag usually and forms a much more durable permanent stitch than flimsy usual thread. You can use a larger needle like a millimeter and a half and this doesn't damage the cloth at all because the thread just fills through the hole in the cloth. More about these sewing tricks below which can make it much easier to sew.)

You could probably do this by sewing with heavy thread but I use key rings that are durable because they're simple and they lock it really well. You can get key rings that are cheap and that really are durable. You don't want the cheap kind because they they don't hold well and unlock.

 Take the key rings because it's tough to bend them I first put my fingernail in to bend it with my left hand and then bend it with my other hand my right hand. This is just strong enough to bend it outward so that you can now thread it through the holes in your cloth and then likewise you do the same with lines through the loop of your hand warmers and then you attach the two key rings together by the same super ability to thread.

 This makes it so you can not only attach them easier to your shoe by a modular method but you can also put up in the shoulders of your coat or even around your pants if you have a pair of shorts.

To do this you can take two pairs of shorts that are thin and the other one is wicking and then you simply put the hand warmers between the two layers and you can move them around! 

 You can also use this to make a cheap heated coat that truly works for staying cozy especially with the dry layer and insulation since you're heating it right next to your skin but it also saves all the heat in your insulation.

 If your feet are still cold because you have to walk around to circulate the heat  otherwise at any rate on the low heat of my 1200 Mah pocket the best method I found  is to buy both 1/8 inch and 1/4 in memory foam sew foam. While 1/4 is too thick to fit in my NEOS over shoes which are nylon with a Vibram Sole and get for $30 on Ebay, 1/8 inch memory foam is suitable for a booty. I already have my socks sewn into the tounge of my cloth tennis shoes with the pocket warmer inside for general use. This goes inside the booty which goes inside the NEOS over shoe. To finish use a patch of 1/2 inch so foam if you can get it if not you could just use two of your 1/8 inch sew foam patches, tape together like with paper tape. This patch goes on top inside your overshoes and also its purpose is to take the heat from your foot warmer store it and return it back to your foot where the heat should have always been for 1000s of years up to now in prehistoric times with memory foam hand and foot warmers!

  If you're saving heat and you want proof of this before you buy you can take your oven mitts and squeeze them over the stove burner at an angle so you don't get too hot they say warm toasty and then put them inside of insulated pockets like insulated with other pot holders and you will see this is a dramatically warmer way to keep your hands warm. It radiates out and then it radiates back in but you don't lose your heat for hours and hours once your hands heat up they stay warm because of circulation and dilation of your blood vessels which creates a loop. 

 As I say Elsewhere on this post it's a long post I'm sorry but a lot of this is archival and hope is valuable general knowledge, I want more! When you see how much some of it must be good. What we finish withis what makes us the Great Samaritin. The highest speed sales pitch is Knock Knock!

The Army is doing research about heating your lower arm so the circulation goes down to your hand and dilates the blood vessels which make it more circulation flow down and this makes it so you can actually handle stuff in a 32° room without being too uncomfortable because your hand is storing heat and getting lots of heat from circulation if you heat it above like with the pocket warmers. So here you have your own method like the Army has without even having to reenlist, right!

 The NEOS overshoes cost about $30 used on eBay. You can get them already lined with memory foam for about 90 or perhaps 60 used and this will simplify your use of your booties also or you can just make your own with the paper tape also and foam.

For cold weather like Outdoors I highly recommend getting you a pair of insulated cloth type tennis shoes and put them in the dryer for about 3 minutes. Originally I used other shoes but insulated cloth tennis shoes are more solid and simple and they hold A LOT of Heat. I use a microwave to time that 3 minutes so I don't overheat my shoes in the dryer which might not be that healthy or wealthy and even wise.

As you wait for the shoes to heat in the dryer have your booties  ready which are your 1/4 in memory foam booties.

When the microwave stops and the light becomes heat take your tennis shoes out of the dryer and immediately put them into the foam booties to save the heat. Then all you have to do is put on your tennis shoes and put them into your over shoes with the booty between the overshoe and your tennis shoe. This gives dramatically warmer heat that lasts for hours if you don't take off your shoes. You're storing the heat inside your shoe so your tweets are saved, and your sole!

 This is the best for cold weather but for mild cool weather like a 50° day or in the air conditioning in the summer if your feet are miserable, you don't want to be wearing these big heavy boots even while they look really quite cool I think. 

 Instead here use your dry layer socks as I say and with them on your feet take the pocket warmers as they are heating up like with medium heat and put them inside the heavy sock and outside sock for each foot.

Next I take a piece of memory foam and put it on the outside of the heater but inside the socks around the edge outside the shoe.

 If your feet still aren't warm enough walk around a while for circulation. Easier than handling dynamite and more powerful exercise than nitroglycerin!

I first tried the sock inside a larger shoe with memory foam but the good news is the heater works so well you often don't need a heavy memory foam boot to hold the Heat. I thought this might damage my ankle, even so if you stabilize your ankle like with foam inside the Neos this is like usual big boots but actually more light weight. I used a memory foam pillow, and with sleep learning I memorize and shine!

One advantage of using heaters like this if you can heat your shoes on high heat for perhaps 2 hours and now they have residual heat because your blood vessels are dilated circulating to your feet and this keeps them warm by sending more 

circulation down to your feet in an awesome sort of way like a loop which heats you up more.

 The great news here is if you just buy two of these hand warmers for $33 you can heat your feet for about 2 hours and then clip your hand warmers into the top of your coat around the shoulders and since you've already heated up your feet before your feet feel just fine even though it's a miserably cold day and you can use the heaters both for foot heaters and also your coat or your shorts as I say.

You may have heard of the Torch Coat heater it's $70 but it won't heat your feet and put the heat where you want it in your coat like this method.

 To make a belt that'll keep your cozy and warm you can use the same electric hand warmers and put them inside of a sauna belt which also has a lot of good insulation.

The hand warmers are twice as cheap as the Torch coat heater but they do at least twice as well because you can use them for both a coat heater and for cozy warm feet and you don't need heavy shoes and I think they feel a lot warmer than the battery heated vest I got for $120. I couldn't even wear this! It wasn't dry it was warm for a while and then it got wet and cold like every other coat and wasn't so warm.

But if you have a super-wicking base 

layer like this and the dry layer plus the waterproofing layers and the dry layer plus the heaters wherever you want them this can be dramatically more comfortable in the miserable weather. You can use several key rings around inside your base layer and then simply clip heaters you like wherever you want them inside your coat or pants and they work wondrously well for lightweight comfortable shoes.

If you have a good dry wicking layer electric pocket warmers are great way to add heat inside of them. As with sewing half of a cut off sock into your shoe tongue so it doesn't fall out, to keep the fragile hand warmers from falling out of my sleeve or outfit, I use a shoelace tied to the lanyard area of the hand warmer with enough distance of the line to reach most of the way down my sleeve on the inside with a loop sewn on the end of the shoelace to go through a buttonhole and button. This stops lots of knots and tangles when I'm using other loops like audio  to cinch my hat. The beauty of this is you can use it first in the morning to heat your feet and you can also rotate them since you would anyhow since mine even on low heat are a bit so cozy. Once my feet are warm will the dry layer method I discuss combined with the heaters they often stay warm for hours all day so then I can use them in rotation in the rest of my outfit. You might only have to move them around every half hour and if you use them with more insulation on the outside for the outside in the cold if you also have a waterproof windproof layer this allows a great general toastiness for like a foot wide area of your shoulder because the heat radiates and dries out your insulation while storing a lot of heat in you. You can use this anywhere in your outfit by this method just so you don't drop your hand warmers otherwise they'll crash. 

 I might not even have to buy two pairs of each while I wait for more to arrive from US of Amazon to charge one while the other one is heating because mine heat for most of the day and if you were stuck for money you could even use a heater or 2 as for one arm will you charge just one other heater while you rotate around first one arm then the other the other for a great therapeutic value. Like my summer cooling methods these have such deep heat even if with low heat if you have reasonably good insulation inside you can save heat and have lots more comfort when you rotate your heaters inside your outfit.

 Even so for even better results I'm thinking of two pair for my shoes the one I have plus another pair. Plus I was thinking of taking a pair of shorts and sewing socks to hold the heaters in those for my legs and putting two more in a sauna belt which is insulated plus four more for my shoulders and sleeves or perhaps two for my mufflers and hat. 

 The idea could be to get two pairs of two each for feet pants sauna belt sleeves muffler and hat. If everybody's spending $300 a year on frustration about winter these at $13 each on Amazon if I got 16 of them even if the rotation turns out to work quite well because it stores the heat in your arm or legs once you heat it up, this total of about 210$ for 16 at 13 each seems like a much better bargain than misery while trying to save heat.

 Even so this method works so well I can imagine just buying two of them for $30 and use them by rotation as above and saving the entire 300 almost.

 You could say that buying 16 of them in a way would be buying your security for 100$ off one winters money and you will have a lifetime supply of these heaters I hope. I mean who wants to be cryogenically saved up!

Compare and Contrast...

Hand Warmers plus the Dry Layer

Why Not other Cheap.. or Not So Cheap! Methods..

You or yu! might wonder why not use Chinese heater pads after all they only cost $3.

But what they don't tell you about these is that they run on a phone battery and may seem easy to find right. But the wires are flimsy they break in 3 days but also cell phone batteries are designed with a great cool overheating safety feature! This is really when you need safety when you're out in the miserable cold and it works for about 4 minutes and then stops. Safety I want more! But if you buy the built-in Usb C all-in-one hand warmers they're simpler and they work much better than a 300 dollar battery heated coat which doesn't have heated arms and you may not be able to use coats like this with different outfits and also for warm toasty feet as above at no extra charge so using hand warmers like this is sort of a modular method that's superior to these other methods I've tried.

Making your own battery heated coats by do it yourself method on sites like the Instructables site will cost you $100 at least and it doesn't heat your feet and the wires may short circuit.. And this seems to take complex electrical wiring ability including buying all the tools and stuff to make it.

I'm opting on out in hot weather year round by methods like hand heaters..

By far or Far out as my pa would say the best method I found to quickly toast up my hands is about insulation and heating inside while the insulation saves your heat. First insulate the pockets like with the memory foam patches with the insulation between your hand and the outside of the coat with a patch of insulation sewn into the lining of the coat. I like memory foam for this since it's simple and toasty, or a potholder will do fine if a bit more moist.  To toast your hands you use pair of oven mitts and hold your hand over the burner of the stove while moving your fingers in and out at like 45° and it's 90° of cozy! It just takes like 15 seconds to warm your hands up then put the mitten into your insulated pocket. This gives dramatic warmup for your hands because it radiates into your coat and also out into the insulation and back into your coat bouncing around. If you use memory foam it heats up more and more by the loop, and once you dilate the blood vessels of your hand and your arms this tends to send down more circulation to keep your hands warm especially if you use it with the electric hand warmers tied into your coat sleeve. And you're also warmed up by your own body heat keeps you warm when you have insulation between your hand and the outside.

 If you're a postal worker or you work in the outdoors this may enable you to handle things at 32° in more comfort as by the Army's method of doing this.. 

 If you're using memory foam you always want to be cautious about any source of ignition like smoking.

 Or you can use other insulation like potholders for your pockets.

If you're in your car you may be able to heat your oven mitts to start them up with the heater vent on the dash. Another trick to warm them if you don't trust the stove burners that's also even more portable than a Porsche might be to use an electric hair dryer and put the output inside the mittens and dry them from the inside out.

This could also be used perhaps to dry out your boots. Even so they won't be that wet if you buy like neoprene shoes with rubber soles that don't wear out or if you use the Neos overshoes as above.

    

 So let's say you have a couple of good coats and the bibs. Make sure both are as lightweight as possible with thin lining and thin shell yet with insulation even so..Standard insulated bib overalls are what the cosmos wants, larger size..  Simply cut lines in your liner from the inside and cut and stuff your flat PU sew foam memory foam panels in. The good thing about bib overalls is that they have seams that they sew across like the knees and of course around the lower leg and these keep your panels from falling down. Even so if you want you can sew them to the line where you've cut the liner but this is optional. You want to cut above where you want to drop in the sew memory foam and you don't have to control it so much like you would a memory foam mattress topper. Just drop it right in and a few minutes later and 1000 months of your life is much better and zonked.

 To set up any coat with a liner with memory foam get a large coat and cut across the top shoulders for the back panel cut the panel insert it and sew it and the seam if you have time if you want. For the sleeves if you want to use memory foam (as I say it works well but no better than the sheets and it's more bulky and the wind blows through and it looks bad in moderate weather because you look like you're wearing a heavy coat in March April or Whensday) all you have to do is cut the liner above on the inside around the sleeve  pull up your outer shell of your arm, make the memory foam into a tube with narrow bands of duct tape to fit your arm or perhaps paper tape or at least thin bands of the tape since duct tape is poison when wet. All you need us to stabilize it when you put it in and paper tape will do, with the polyester backing the sew foam won't flop around so much and not have uncovered areas while you wear it inside the sleeve.

Reverse the sleeve from the inside move the liner down add the memory foam in, move the liner back up and sew it to the rest of the liner from the inside. By using this method you can dramatically increase your general body temperature.

This will take you about 10 minutes and not 30 years like it took me to find it. Everything else I tried like presumably all that we all try would always get miserably wet and cold in 3 hours. The three demons cold wet tight and heavy and also bad looking let me count the ways, I love memory foam! The bibs would start to get cooler and miserably wet like all and more I tried after 3 hours but the memory foam drys so much it overpowers this so you don't have to keep taking on and putting off your outfits all month.

 Usually any material that dries fast also wicks well, in proportion to the cosmos om.. When you go outside you've retained so much heat it seems as if it's cozy for hours. The bibs works quite well for outside or in if you want to travel short distances like perhaps a half a mile or even a mile depending on how strong my ankles are.  I found a memory foam coat like this isn't as comfortable as the bibs so you may want to use the dry layer for the coat as I do with microfibers for the dry layer.

Note that the bibs aren't the only technology involved here. My sister has recommended nylon ski pants. She says she loves them but they cost about $150-$300.

These would presumably be lightweight and high sci, and these with a dry layer coat or perhaps future science like Fibregel as I discuss below (which itself could dramatically change this whole outfit and weigh about 3 oz and be bone dry in a torrential downpour if the Fibregel coat  business is viable, but so far this is only a hope of this busine$$ and billion$ of other$ no doubt! And me!)

 People really feel emotional about memory foam and 27% in research say they feel miserable or 39% bored about winter. Most people spend $100 on warm clothes and $70 on bed wear each winter. This seems to tell us that most people aren't satisfied about the clothes they buy if at any rate they're like me, I was searching and searching year after year. These methods seem to work so well it's good enough to start saving heat, time and money. If you're in your 20s, and starting out this may give you 30 years of enriched enviroment.

 So these two things, about bibs with memory (sew) foam you can wear that covers your whole body, and the dry layer trick for warm feet and coat outdoors and outside, plus a microfiber multilayer coat for inside are a fast way to counteract most of this misery.

 So warm toasty feet and memory foam that you can wear because the bibs support the weight from the center, so it's much easier to walk in them or easy enough, will help you stay much dryer and warmer. ( Even so the bibs are more portable than getting under a blanket all day and reasonably lightweight if you're not much overweight. If your in-between like me you could just wear them only for the times when you're not walking a lot like for exercise. Your own health situation is unique and while I found I could walk 3 miles and more in these for exercise I would recommend that you start and test them and see if you can strengthen your ankles before you try anything more strenuous.. )

 Memory foam is one awesome way to improve in general.

 One problem about memory foam (other than the bibs due to the way that due to the way the insulation that's already there blends in with the memory foam evening out your toasty event) the jacket itself is a bit uncomfortable.. I bought a $100 duck coat I thought sure might be toasty and warm and it was worthless other than for looks. So many years later after using this coat to decorate my shelf, I thought right memory foam works great for bib overalls maybe I could convert it with the memory foam. So I cut out the sleeve liners as above, put them inside and sewed them together and then even though it was a three times extra large coat.. It was too tight in the sleeves to even wear once.

So while making memory foam bibs is real simple and easy to do because it's XL and has a balanced center of gravity , for making a memory foam lined jacket I would recommend buying good looking cheap polyester or nylon jackets for this..

Even so perhaps my own r&d was incomplete and it may be it was only just tightness and not the lack of the bibs being of worth when the method was applied to the coat.. the bibs are already heavy with a bit of the memory foam and trying to reapply the same method for real may be so heavy it might be nonviable.

While you you can counteract the wind and the rain dramatically by sewing two large PUL jackets you wear outside your other coats (larger sizes are tough to find so I sewed my own) you still want a good base layer.  Extra layers of (synth) action wear pants are great for extra warmth and to even out the heat inside your bib memory foam overalls.

The best dry layer I'd ever seen for indoor use for my arms are microfiber sheets you can buy for $25 on eBay. Memory foam seems too clunky other than just as a dry your arms method when they're wet.

Memory foam is great for the bib overalls to wear most the time and you don't even have to completely line them with memory foam, this also helps reduce weight for walking more often. But for my arms other than when I'm drying  them like after heavy exercise or after going outside with the memory foam tubes on my arm or the coat, I've sewn tubes out of the sheets for my arms. These are about five layers deep and they're flat enough that you can wear them even inside a light jacket. This makes it look like you're miserable like most on the outside while inside you're much toastier and warmer without wearing a large coat.

  I had taken a memory foam vest I bought, they're really tough to find but they're toasty and warm and then I sewed the microfiber sheet sleeves to the vest and this is almost as comfortable for  arms as the memory foam and all you have to do if your arms are cold is just put the memory foam coat over these sleeves.

To achieve this more easily than buying a hard to get memory foam vest I finally realized you can buy a usual vest with a liner and cut the liner and insert a memory foam vest and have it ready and good looking and 10 minutes instead of searching for years like I did online and no avail to find a cozy warm sew foam vest.

 Another great way to use memory foam to raise your body temperature is to buy a large-sized long coat and simply add memory foam into the liner of it after you've cut the line in the liner! (Usually I found that the sleeves of a coat I would buy like a long coat were too small and you need a giant size coat at any rate for the arms so I recommend just cutting the sleeves off and use it as a sort of long vest stuffed with the memory foam. You may have to shop around for a large size long coat or you could even sew yourself one and save.) If you wear this on the outside of your bibs and your other coat like this I guarantee you this is really warm fast. You can even use 1/2 in sew foam for this outer coat. I was out for an hour in the 20° below weather this Christmas of 022 for an hour and as I'll show you by these methods as I finish up, I was real toasty and warm. By wearing the long coat over the bibs you can still walk in them outside because your legs can move easily and I found if I put the sew foam up to the rear of my knee where it bends this forms sort of a spring so when I'm climbing a hill, and it actually lifts my leg forward and makes it easier to climb the hill.

 HATS, BLANKETS AND HANDS.

Hats can be a major value and here I either use the pillow case I got with the microfiber sheets over my head tied with a shoelace and a line stop to cinch it. The microfiber wraps around your ears and is far superior to all the rest like memory foam or smartwool which it just blows right through a trip on the Sale of the Century to the coast of ancient Egyptorica! Memory foam won't work for your hat other than for an outer layer because the wind just blows right in and around it. One good trick I find that works really well is to buy a microfiber coat with a hood and use this hood on top of the pillowcase. You want a hat thats store bought and if so you would want one made out of microfiber if possible.

Finally on top of this I make a muffler out of the sew foam which is flat and then waterproof it with an EVA inside the liner  making it into a great dry layer  which you then simply cinch with the shoelace and the cord stop by using the PU sew foam band inside of the PUL outside I've sewn to fit the tube. On the outside of the hat the most fundamental way of my math celebration is a waterproof windproof hat like a PUL hat. As warm and toasty as they are microfibers don't overheat. I have a nice heavy green PVC hat I fit another outer blue hat around and they're both waterproof and windproof.

Mine looked quite a bit floppy from the outside and the colors weren't my favorite so I started using the hood from my action wear shirts moved from the inside of my outfit out to cover over my hat and make it look good. This gives simplicity and structure to the hat otherwise it looks floppy.. I highly recommend that you waterproof this outer layer with perhaps EVA a rainwear plastic you've seen in discount stores that if you buy it thick enough it actually works real well for total waterproofing and windproofing for this use it's by far the best I'd ever seen.

While you can't use EVA rainwear for the outer layer except like in the summer in the rain where I use a base working layer and these UVA raincoats. I got 10 of them for just $30 in a good deal on Amazon. These are medium like 2-mill EVA raincoats which don't tear up when you use them but don't cost too much. 

Since they don't sell sizes large enough for this if you have a dry layer on the other layers, it works 5 Star! Champion, Brass hat! for the inner waterproofing layer I put around my base layers.. EVA is more durable if you pay about 20$ like for another coat I made sure was with thick durable plastic and I make sure that I use extra exercise and large as they sell! EVA has never looked so good anywhen or what.. So to keep out the most miserable winter wind and rain and keep my dry layer dry I was forced to sew my own extra large PUL outer coats. These have two layers and even if you could get them in this size even the best EVA coats I'd seen seem to look sort of like light flimsy rainwear, and you may just want to stay warm on a day when there's no rain so you don't look like you're wearing a raincoat if you used this for your outer coat..

 For hand warmers I extremely much recommend memory foam patches inside of your pocket of your coat and bibs. Since this is powered by body heat you want the memory foam outside of the thinner layer or other base layer, after all it's powered by radioactive, reradiant, you!  

 Best for pocket warmers however overall I think is just to use oven mitts and then put your hands inside between the outside of the oven and inside of your pocket! 

 Foam patches give sort of uneven heat around the edges put cotton oven mitts give a nice even warm heat. And if your hand does get too cold you can just put on the oven mitt which is now warm by your body heat and you can also use it to handle stuff in.

 One problem I had noticed when my heat is turned to 60°is how I would wake up and my hands will be cold so I couldn't do things like clean and also else when in the month I would also not be able to type in my cell phone for hours or read without getting my hands cold.

Early on I had tried oven mitts and these do make great pocket warmers for outside.

Indoors having super warm pockets helps because the army has found heating your arm higher up the cuff with heaters makes your blood vessels in your hand and arm relax sending the heat via circulation down to your hands so you can handle stuff with comfort in what seems a 32° heatwave!

This same trick is useful by walking in your bibs to circulate even more heat down to your feet.

Outdoors I still use 15-in silicone oven mitts with a cotton lining comfort rating to 200 below. I noticed that these will get wet but only after an hour of real shielding. To dry them I found that if you simply put them sidewise and make the sleeve into a round opening this also makes them so they're not impossible to dry so you don't have to wait days just hours.

In addition to totally stopping cold hands half way up your arm silicone oven mitts have the advantage that if you put them on one arm you can put them on your other hand and then grip them to pull them up even, and when it's misery and cold even better! And even better for handling wet laundry and hot pizza around the Pizza Shack.. I never carry more than $200 worth of cheese when I go as the pizza cheeze is up!

 I finally got a second pair of silicone oven mitts so when one gets wet I just flip to the other ones for 4 hours of use outside.

 While you would probably have no problem using usual oven mitts as backup this wouldn't be as comfortable because not completely windproof even while toasty especially when used as pocket liners. One main advantage of silicone  mitts like I bought with a cotton lining are that they shield your arm half way up. It's amazing how much your arms don't drop off, no change of heat or wind in sight.

Finally I want to talk about blankets.. most people as I say spend $100 on clothes each winter and $70 on bedwear. Knowledge maybe helpful here, of my sleep learning or whatever.. for years I was miserable with usual blankets! I remember once I lost my heat for about 3 days and while I found it by now, I got smarter about it and bought sleeping bags..

These are much better than blankets perhaps 2/3 but ultimately it was a summer heat sale at the thrift shop where I found a microfiber blanket that's about a third more optional than the sleeping bag like the microfiber hat I talk of above,  a microfiber blanket wraps around you and is lightweight and warm and doesn't overheat.

 While I wear rather heavy bedwear and this evens out the heat and makes it so I'm not cold when I wake up in the morning and walking around, I do recommend getting two microfiber blankets not one, I got mine for just $10 each.

Also for warm hands as I am reading when you type me in, for years I tried oven mitts in the room as in with the thumb cut off so I could hope to read 100% of the internet why not more.  I thought this was valuable also for cleaning and other stuff in the morning.

One problem with this is it doesn't have real dexterity, perhaps I could play the electric guitar with my mitts on if I was real real good, and got a recording contract singing..."mfbflv".

 So while they were toasty and warm and I could pick up stuff, the best way to do this I found was to cut off the sleeves of a microfiber coat I had that wasn't quite as warm as the bib and I don't wear it, so I use it for salvage.

As I say above one good thing about microfibers is it's thin and warm and dry and toasty warm almost as much as memory foam bit microfibers are more level on your skin so you can cover yourself all over with more ease and fewer surprises than memory foam. While memory foam bibs work best for me because they even out the temperature for my coat my favorite coat because of this is still to use a memory foam vest with microfiber sleeves.

So for hand warmers indoors I took these cut off sleeves and sewed the cuff shut as well as cutting like a 3-inch line for my thumb by the cuff and then I simply sew the edges around the top of the sleeve and the cuff areas so none of the insulation will flop out.

Finally if you like you can take larger patches of memory foam large enough that they won't fall out through the cut and put them inside your hand warmers.. this makes them even warmer.. The cut for your thumb is wide enough that you can also slide your other fingers out without taking off the sleeve warmer to handle stuff also.. The main advantage here however is about dexterity. Unlike oven mitts, microfiber cuffs like this are really good arm warmers but they're also dextrous.

You can handle more.

 While a method like this is good for cleaning the house in the morning while saving heat since you can pick up stuff while your hands heat up, another method I devised for typing in on the cell phone is to make a memory foam hand ham sandwich, like the one half inch memory foam sheet cut a line for all four of your fingers to type through and a line for your thumb, and you've cut the amount of heat lost from your hands by 2/3.

 Mostly the cell phone will warm your fingers the rest of the way.

This works good enough for a 60° room temperature I use to save heat but it might not work for lower temperatures so I can't guarantee this.

 PUL sheets are just 20

 for about a 60 by 30 sheet and as usual fabric sheets are sold. Even so for the cheapest method that really works outside as I say below, using any base layer  that's reasonably wicking and a simple  dry layer works well. The best base layer I ever seen is a thick thick wicking microfiber shirt I just got by accident. The 2 waterproofing layers may help you stay outside for like six hours like I do a lot of times for exercise and being with the neighbors without the arm drop off in 5 minutes. With a coat like this you may indeed find once you set it up then it's often going to be too hot when it's 20° outside. This is easy to solve just adjust away! Remove the coat for a minute and you have a reset button for life AHHH! A HEAT WAVE IN  MONTHS AHEAD. I went out in the snow storm the first time I tried this and I walked for an hour and a half with heavy snow and wind I was not hardly cold a bit.

 The dry layer method works with no sign of heat loss right down to zero degrees. While I haven't been able to try it here, If you are reading in Canada or Russia this may be especially valuable even to 20 below just simple tennis shoes with the dry layer.

WARM FEET INDOORS ON THE COLDEST DAYS 

My all-time favorite methods!

Method 1

This method is the most powerful and simplest and that's why I like it a lot for the coldest days.. the trick is to buy  insulated memory foam boots like NEOS explorers.. you can get these on eBay for as low as $50. These hold the Heat and to get the Heat all you have to do is to buy some Eva shoes like Crocs..

Put the shoes in the dryer for a minute or two that's all it takes and there's huge amounts of toasty heat that you simply put into your overshoes in this retains the heat literally for hours and heats you up faster than the speed of cool in VOLVOS CHRISTMAS in July sale!

 If you like you can get a set of Neos over shoes that aren't insulated for like $30 and buy you a sheet of sew foam memory foam which costs about $25 with the polyester backing so it's stable and doesn't bunch up in your boot.. to do this you can make your own insulated boots by forming a cone with the foam around your Eva shoe to fit.. I use paper tape because all you have to do is wrap it around three or four times and it becomes as durable as duct tape but it's light weight.. finally to make the booty you cut sideways at the heel in the foam to form an area where the heel goes through and doesn't ride up at the back.. these are probably not for long distance walking and while they may not look that good they are ideal for short distance comfort and they're totally waterproof. Neos has had the market on over shoes like this cornered for years, so they make ones like this that are heavy duty no one but the only weigh about 2 lb each about as much as a woman's tennis shoe..

This method works the best of all by using a usual sock base layer and then above it you use your dryer or heavy sock with the waterproofing layers. Keep the memory foam layer dry itself because it's also a dry layer.. it may be about as cheap just to buy you the insulated boots pre-made even while if you buy both uninsulated and make your own out of the memory foam you still have to take out the foam each time to put your Eva boot into because you can't put the foam in the dryer.. even so if you buy a sheet of memory foam you can use it for other use also like to line your coats..

Cheapest may be to save a lot of money eating dried beans which are no longer dry and a pressure cooker and other healthy foods to save like $200,000 over 40 years with a pressure cooker..

This money you might reinvest into crypto and never need to pay for heat anymore..while toasty feet are a treasure mostly for the rich..

For more about this click here or cut and paste this link 

https://theocfs.blogspot.com/2023/06/how-to-save-up-to-200000-in-food-costs.html?m=0

or see the same Link at the end of the page if you like!

I like this method a lot even for cold mornings on a 60° day.. it doesn't look quite as good as dress shoes and you probably wouldn't wear them to a pre-arranged funeral who can afford it at the rates it's cheaper!

 But anytime you want to be more sympathized with them dead this is super therapeutic no not being dead!

It's most great people are considerably helped by being dead and are helped more than  most by being alive!

 If you make your own insulated over shoes like this you have to slide your Eva boots into them each time after taking them out of your overshoes to make them fit. Even with the polyester backing so foam won't stay in the boot without bunching up unless you first pull it out then put the cozy Eva boot in and then put it back in.. be aware that you don't want to heat the dryer for more than a minute or two and it works wondrous because you keep the heat in your big boot so you also want to use low heat and if your timer has a dryer and grandma had 257 stations on her TV in 1995 she now has 10,000!

Method 2

 I use this for most other days when it's like 30 but not 20° outside

 

..The dry layer method works the best I'd seen for cozy feet outdoors. But you sort of have to fire up your feet because the blood vessels constrict and that cools your feet down to save heat for the rest of your body and this cools them down some more.

While when you have your feet warm already the dryer method is good enough for hours outdoors of cozy feet while you walk but I would find that in the morning to start my feet up it wasn't enough by the dry layer.

So here I want to share with you a guaranteed method your feet will be warm anytime you want at high sped! 

For a while I tried the cosmos and was so active more often and one of my later events here was to use silicone sheets and wrap them into a cone around my dry socks and then hope to dry them with the electric dryer to heat the silicone heaters.

This I would then put on my feet supposedly really fast faster than the speed of heat or light..

But silicone costs somewhat and not much better than the dry layer and I would lose my heat putting them into my shoe.

So my favorite trick of all time for fast shoe heating is no don't jump in the hot tub, rather a much better way I found after years of research is to simply take a shoe that's smooth like a rubber shoe, I like my neoprene shoes.

All you'll need is some memory foam and duct tape, heavy duty black duct tape may be best because it goes with a lot of kinds of shoes you see, and it looks like you've polished your shoe a cool way for a while.

For the memory foam I used one half inch deep patch of 1/2 in sew foam memory foam folded over once perhaps a 4x5-in double layer of memory foam. You simply take this layer or layers of memory foam as you may like and duct tape them over the top of your shoe not around the sides this would be far too floppy.

I wrapped the duct tape all the way around the bottom of the shoe and back up covering over most of the top of the shoe.

 I first tried just two 1/2 in layers for the first patch of memory foam but I found that if you add 2 in total four layers of two folded each this will heat up your foot literally in like 10 or 15 minutes so it's toasty warm. And you can get out or in of your shoe with ease unlike some giant memory foam floppy boots I'd made before..While these are lightweight if you don't use too much tape, they're probably not much for outdoor use.. Duct tape is poisonous when wet and probably might lose traction.

But for a fast boot up of your shoe they're unbeatable and they don't catch fire and you don't have to do things like keep on buying more heating packs that are polluting and that stuff in your shoe while your foot is totally cold and outside just aren't worth $30 a month compared to this..

 Even while these are for indoors you're only using them for 15 minutes because they heat so well, then you simply flip over to your other shoes while still wearing the dry layer which retains the heat for most of the day..

IMPORTANT NOTE

BUY HAND WARMERS LIKE LIGHTWEIGHT ELECTRIC HAND WARMERS I LIKE OCOOPA BRAND ON AZ. PUT THESE INSIDE THE FOAM OF YOUR MEMORY FOAM SHOES AS ABOVE. THEY ARE DRAMATICALLY WARMER ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE A DRY LAYER SOCK AS ABOVE!

I'm cautious since memory foam is like solid gasoline and may catch fire they make them with fire retardants but we aren't retarded at our age!

To make the memory foam shoes out of usual shoes, I cut a three inch by two ft band of PU foam with the cloth backing and fold it over.

To make it more fireproof, sew a three by five in band of something fireproof like wool to the inside of the sew foam band between where the heater and the memory foam are used.

Weight will usually be an issue.

The heaters combined with the duct tape and the shoe limit walking.. it may damage your ankles this weigh if heavy..

If you are not planning on walking a lot you can simply toast up a while and then turn off and remove the heaters while you are elsewhere with your shoes, and you! Repeat as much as you like, or more!

I like to exercise so a lightweight method is to use a light foam durable tennis shoe, or if a shoe why not more! 

The memory foam band is just 3 inches by two shoes as above to be light. The shoe is light.

Just two layers of duct tape around the foam all the way around your shoe. I use the cheap silver duct tape for the inside band since it's lighter and then the heavy black tape on the outside for looks and more durability in an optimal blend.

When you tape the memory foam layers to each shoe, first buy and put the heater on the top of each shoe so you have comfort room for the heater. It's a pain on your shoe if you dont make extra space to heat more space! I buy thinner heaters like the "Ocoopas" brand I use, just 33 for a pair on Amazon. 

These can also be used for great arm warmers inside coat insulation or for the top of my legs. I'm thinking of buying 4 more of these and stringing two each for each arm to a clip that attaches to a durable key ring so they don't soon leave my sleeve. Other hand warmers like this left my left coast after they dropped, no they dropped right away!

Finally tape your memory foam sewn with the fireproofing like wool on the inside near the heater, first by a layer of silver duct tape then black so it looks more real, tape them over the heater and relax. Chemical hand warmers are polluting and cost 300$ more a year than electric.

If I want to go outside and exercise like walking I take off my memory foam vest and put on PUL and dry layer coat and warm them up an hour or two before I go out. This can also be done by just turning up the heat for a few minutes before you go out.

But the simplicity of having it unified by sewing the layers together is valuable both for outfits inside and out.

By using the materials and methods I describe here, you can make your outfit for indoors in just a few hours because all you have to do is have the memory foam of 1/4 in and cut it into tubes and make them with duct tape, sew your inner liner sleeves and sew The memory foam tubes to your vest and you're done.

 To sew your outfit for outside you'll need your PUL sheets and an insulated coat and this may take a few days, but remember, you're retracing my progress in 3 minutes in 3 days of set up which took me 30 years to figure out how to do this. Lots and lots of trial and error. Remember memory foam is real and they use it in the north with an inch thick down to 60 below for real comfort.

 The main problem here is I wondered how you could ever walk around in an inch thick coat. Or even one half inch so finally I found that 1/4 in works real well indeed for saving heat indoors while outdoors and for dry feet all the time the dry layer has more power.

 As with my summer methods of staying cool I think these methods might save a lot of people's lives if you kept a coat like this with the dry layer and your car for the possibility of winter outs. If you have flares in the back of your car you can have a '70s dance blend with all the heat and polyester power hour!

And these methods are just great for saving heat.

A lot of us might have thought there was no way to even be much comfortable and we just would grin and bear it but I can tell you these methods are real, they're a simple way to be comfortable all day even if you're saving heat, or if like some of us you have to go outside in the heat and cold! (See below also about ways to stay mostly comfortable in the heat..)

 

 If one day they ever invent a fibregel coat as I say in this post about "what the future may hold" which they may have been trying to do with  online crowfunding, all this coat engineering will not needed, but using this method may save years of misery for millions while we wait for fibregel or other  science to arrive.

 

It hasn't yet and maybe it never will, 100% of the evidence so far shows no evidence!

The double inside and outer PUL sheets are easy to get and so is your favorite dry layer of whatever type you like inbetween. 

(For my shoes as now I use the dry layer mostly only for footwear or for outdoors, I was using bread sacks for the waterproofing layers  because they're cheap and easy to get and then I tried just using handle tie grocery bags you see all around when you buy stuff in stores. (It makes me feel like I'm in the upper layers of society and wearing a sandwich for a commercial! If you're older you may remember that these originally were used to promote stuff called the walking sandwich commercial, if you're young crunchy chips are your solution..) The idea is instead of using like heavy plastic sheets which are far too tight on your shoes, use a bag for the waterproofing layer that's thin enough to not hurt your foot but thick enough to be waterproof and durable. Actually believe it or not grocery bags do this well..even so I'm looking at around for bags which might be more durable yet. Grocery bags don't cost anything and they actually are more like bread bags and they do work although they were out after about five days of heavy use like exercise.)

My favorite inner waterproofing layer for warm feet is actually just to use the tubes that my 1/4 inch memory foam roll arrived in and cut through in the center and with two more cuts  which are the tubes, which makes two pairs of waterproofing socks, and using each for the waterproofing sock after I tape them with transparent packing tape up and over the ends so the water won't get in or out. This is far cheaper than a pair of waterproof PUL socks if you're going to buy the sew foam anyhow.

These are valuable enough even at $10 a pair for the plastic that I may buy more tubes of memory foam I don't need just to make valuable durable socks out of these tubes.

The plastic they often use to send the sew memory foam through the mail is just right for a water proof sock... it's thin enough to fit in your shoe without tightness but it's so durable that it won't wear out. 

Once you have your sets of two (or even three each since they're thin and stretchy if you use bread sacks and you can make them larger for your coat so they just stretch and fit, I recommend this for ease of movement) inner and outer waterproofing and dry  layers are ready to go. The test is if you can go out in the heavy rain or snow and stay totally dry and windproof for your dry layer.

The only other thing is if you want more warmth than just a thin dry layer like for light blue and gold autumn weather, simply add another dry layer between the waterproofing layers. Above all you want to keep it dry. Layers of hot dish are used as a flavor exercise in summer! I use a big heavy lightweight polyester coat for this on the outside of my usual dry layer just like action wear. It hardly weighs anything (make sure it's extra extra large, luxury size! And lightweight yet with wide sleeves and then sew your PUL outer waterproofing layers even larger they stretch and look good even so) and with the dry layer method, much improved, even though without it it would be the same old coat misery. To rewind is common to summerize is FM.

I trick I use to keep my dry layers dry like for my socks, is to take off one pair of dry layers one day and put them up on my shelf of my chest and then find another pair for the second day while the first pair is drying and then just repeat.

 

This double dry layer method is great for saving heat and you sew your outer waterproofing layers to easily fit outside your big coat and the other dry layer, it's of value indoors or out. 

As I say don't hesitate to also take off the coat if you get too hot and this may well be a first in the history of coats because what  ancient horse racing arena was insulated or had a space heater, horse blankets so what, they didn't have our dry layer/BC powder method of here in the 21st century!

Another way to make your coat so it's not too darn tight is to basically first sew the two sets of inner and outer layers. To sew them to fit sew them one by one with the outside larger than the ones inside as you wrap them around your sleeve with each go round. 

As I say above, with a bit of tedious sewing or the sewing machine you can convert a coat so the sleeves fit extra extra large by cutting down the sleeve and then sewing like PUL all the way down the sleeve in the space where you cut. 

Another method I tried for the too tight sleeves was to take like a xl vest and sew pant cuffs on for sleeves. 

Even so since my vest didn't look that good that I had like me you might want to consider just buying cloth and sewing the outer xl layer since coats are tough to fit and this gives you much better motion of your arms more even than the pants legs for the sleeves. 

This won't look quite as good as a coat perhaps but it's a purely decorative layer and covers up and shields the PUL from the elements and worth the comfort for the outfit if you're outside like me a lot and are good at exercise and if you're good at sewing like with the machine. By sewing your outer layer out of cheaper cloth you get lots of types of patterns for your jacket and a much more comfortable coat that's not so darn tight.

Another way to sew it if I didn't use cloth is to use PUL I'd sewn for the outer layer.

If you  think this method  sounds good with a whoop and yell you may like to try it out with a base layer and one or two layers of PUL (or you could use a PVC coat) with an outer heavy insulation layer (" bib overalls "). You'll find like I did that this is super cozy indoors and is continuously comfortable and if it doesn't get wet for much more than reruns of your SUV portable fat bust exercise machine!-if the outer layer Is dry from the outside. Even so it would still be miserable  and heavy in the rain if the outside layer is wet, but you will see that this really works to keep you dry longer like 6 to 10 hours provided you use the base layer and you have the outer layers completely dry like inside.

More about the winter warm up...

 The sew foam is too clunky in general and tough to move around in all day. The best I've seen on the washing machine channel  of soaps..is to use this dry layer method by way of the PUL sandwich.  It works well for any lightweight insulation, and makes it so you need less insulation. Heavy insulation was a real problem in old outfits and once I found this my heat isn't so old anymore!

 

Actually these days I'm trying without the Zorb (wicking layer) base layer and just using simple action wear which is wicking and hoping that the dry layer method since it's already been so powerful, can be the cushion cushymost in this world or on soap operas.

And since this method is more about the dry insulation layer than about what dries it, I would assume it would also work well to even use the base layer, and for the sandwich perhaps for the waterproofing layers PVC might work for the inner layer and even a pair of blue jeans for the insulating layer  you may find are far better  then a heat wave in August  in this outfit...

 Even so I favor PUL since  it's cheap super lightweight stretchy thin and durable  and it's lighter and  doesn't have dioxin (poison) like PVC pants.  You could even try this with the PVC pants for a while if you have some around the house and even with the blue jeans, even with the dioxin  you're not out of the woods yet  even if you're in Ohio! I'd rather be in Ohio than the best place in the world! Because all the PVC I've ever seen  had bad looks and or you could usually wear two pair of blue jeans you could fit for the insulative layer.  The outer layer in tough XXL size with PVC can be real tough to find and it's easy to just sew  a pair of XXL PUL large pants of all sizes!  So this easily slides over the blue jeans and keeps me  cozy warm and dry for hours more. 

(Plastic sheets used instead of the PUL would be tough to sew without tears and lots of bunching up and just aren't stretchy and flexible enough like PUL and like Hefty liners I used seem too flimsy.)

 This will work well even in a sunshiny 10 degree weather event with an insulated coat.  For rain or snow or wind I highly recommend  a second or perhaps even a third outer PUL layer (one layer of two or three mil PUL for whatever reason turns out not to be completely waterproof) you can buy these for about 10 to windproof and waterproof the dry layer as I say herein.. 

 Important PS.

This site is an ongoing project and I'm not perfect yet though I once made a goof in 1987!

 I'm constantly improving the methods on this site and so here I want to tell you how I found a way that even surpasses the dry layer method.

As I say it's still wonderous for warm cozy feet and I also use it for an awesome face shield and headshield by sewing the PUL around the memory foam or sew foam into a nice warm muffler.

And I also find the  PUL dry layer the best ever for wind rain and snow or longer trips out like for my exercise  marathon. The dry layer coat is much more comfortable to wear than an umbrella and it lasts for years so it's cheaper overall and it doesn't crash over and over.

 As far as these uses go they are indispensable to me.

 Even so here I will branch out into another  more advanced level of levelness.

 And that is dryness.

 

 Since I spend 3/4 of my time in, out of the cold I found that the best method for a coat inside are Thermolite coats.

 I got two of these each for about $5 each from Goodwill and they remind you of a microfiber blanket, well while you're awake!

 

 I used to use a sleeping bag at night and while these are far superior to a blanket, microfiber blankets are much superior to a sleeping bag. They're lighter dryer warmer and they wrap around you with a hug.

I bought two of these in the heat of August when they're on sale when else at the thrift shop just by luck.

 Thermolite or Thermomore coats, are likewise dry durable and toasty warm compared to other coats.

 

 While these are better than most wicking layers memory foam gets my highest rating of all summer time or winter time for the deeper cold weather inside.

Nonetheless for spring or fall or light winter weather, or real summer weather! These coats aren't as heavy to wear as memory foam so they look better and without overheating in the spring or fall.

This way outdoes the Zorb because the Zorb might be 1/8 in thick while both the coats are more like a half an inch. So when you double them up if you need to which you often don't you have like 10 times better wicking cozy power yea even than the Zorb.

You know these microfiber coats and blankets often by the outside fuzzy feel sort of like a microfiber cloth.

 These are top of the line for saving heat in doors especially with the methods I'll show you here also.

 For a long time I thought that overalls weren't worth well for winter because I thought they were so clunky but if you get lightweight coats like this and you balance the bibs from above with the strap this problem is solved because you don't have to support them by walking. Most of your leg motion isn't lifting the bibs but rather walking forward which makes them quite easy to walk in actually.

 Even so as I say memory foam is superior at least for indoors because you can go to the restroom easily and the looks are better for different outfits since I can use action wear on the outside of the memory foam pants I've sewn.

If you put two or three layers of actionwear pants inside your bibs I guarantee you'll be warm.

With three layers instead of two under the bibs it's a bit more difficult to walk in but you're strong and so am I.

Even so a hybrid method I'm trying is to we're just two action wear layers and cutting large patches of sew foam and putting them inside the bibs. My bibs are large and these are not too tight to perhaps so these two by three foot patches of memory sew foam inside because the main problem I have about walking in them was that they seem to tight and clumsy (a klutz gone wild, no a schmuck amuck!) and the straps above support more of the weight of the sew foam they don't flop around.

Sew foam as I say with the cloth back is the only way to use it because it doesn't tear up in two three days like a memory foam bed liner you buy at the store.

 For my hat indoors I just sew memory foam like this into the hat and use the muffler as above made of sew foam/PUL for around the bottom of my hat.

So feet are comfortable by the dry layer, your legs are comfortable by wearing the bibs and you can walk in them your coat is comfortable by way of the Thermolite coats, and this is especially good with a memory foam vest inside you can buy or get at a thrift  shop or elsewhere.

 All that's left are your hands and your sleeves.

I thought of getting electric arm warmers and I even tried like mug warmers or candle warmers which are a disk about 5 in they would seem to be superior to heating pads or heating packs because they're simple instead of flopping all around you can't stuff them in your coat and their cheap just like $10 each I got my first one for a dollar from the consignment shop.

I can't think of how many times I wished sometimes life of the Irish right I just had some kind of heat I could stick in my sleeve when it's cold and wet like after exercise.

While Thermolite coats are really good like for spring and fall you guessed it the deep winter they won't work if you usually keep your thermostat at 60° and I like the challenge and bring it down to 52 just from the thrill of all the comfort I feel, you know feel the burn! 

 So here is my ultimate sleeve method.

 As usual I wear the memory foam vest and the two microfiber coats or at least one any rate one is usually almost at 60°.

 Even so it's colder than 60° at 60°! 

So here I took a large nylon coat that I like thr look of, it's hunter green with black trim looks real macho and cool.

 I cut the sleeves down the line on the near (inside) part of the sleeve facing my chest and sewed the edges so the insulation won't fall out.

 Next I bought some nice royal blue one half inch memory sew foam sheet for about $23, I bought mine on Etsy online.

 To make really good sleeve liners,  most arm warmers are a total joke like smartwool try not to laugh 20 more I saved you!

Like I used the song and the joke method I tell a joke and sing a song and if I don't sing the song they kill me!

 Simply cut your memory foam so that it fits your sleeves..you want it somewhat larger so you can move around this is major value. I simply try mine around with audio strips of duct tape!

 You put them in your sleeves and they're wonderous sleeve liners with the Thermolite coats..

You may note that I said that memory foam was out of reach for both pants and coats because it's too bulky and clunky.

 For the bibs memory foam is in reach because they're so large and they don't look larger when you wear them with the memory foam in them and they are stabilized by support from the straps above so they're easy to walk in and cozy warm.

For the coat it's easiest just to buy a memory foam vest and wear it with the microfiber coat. This is much superior to battery heated vests which can cost $200 and you have to keep charging and charging them.

While memory foam is mostly out of reach for your boots unless you want to buy like large galosh over shoes with soles called neos overshoes and stuff memory foam and these these work great but they are so bulky you can't walk fast in  like tennis shoes for exercise.

 For my hat as I say you can use memory foam to great advantage.

 And if you use the sew foam for your sleeve even though for your coat you couldn't get in and out of it without the vest which is already designed for it, you can use the large memory foam sleeve liners inside your coat like I use inside the hunter green coat.

These have really satisfying warm-arm coziness especially if used with the thermolite coats inside instead of the Zorb for base layer.

For whatever reason the coats don't turn out to be good enough for warm dry arms and this is the last part of the outfit that you need to know how to make.

 

Other than for your hands where I use oven mitts with sew foam inside as I say, warm dry toasty arms are in reach anytime you want inside but just putting on this memory foam sleeve line coat.

This also mostly solves the clunkiness problem for sleeves because first of all the memory foam adds very little weight to your outfit so you can walk in your memory foam bibs and also if you make them not too tight or too loose which you can adjust with the duct tape they for two or three days of practice to get the right fit, it doesn't make the overall outfit to giant too get in and out of and it's by no means too heavy..

The area where the sleeve is open where you cut it,  all you have to do is turn the sleeve inside out and cut a piece of cloth to fit the type you like so it looks good.

 To speed up my sewing I do a spiral loop on the edge of the cloth held up with the two edges flat vertically in front of me in over the left in over the left....etc. See below for sewing with awl twine which I use which is heavier and more durable easier to thread than usual thread and needle and without snags.

Also because the tubes won't cover your shoulders you want to take a patch of light maybe 1.5 feet of memory foam and sew it to the edge of the tubes. In the long run I found the best way to this is just to make the memory foam tubes longer when you make them so they cover your shoulders.

 Sew the foam so it doesn't tear even with the polyester backing after more use by way of the duct tape in the same kind of loop as well as every four or five loops you pull it through the needle you wrap it around the needle three or four times and then pull it through for a tight lock cinch in a hybrid high speed but more secure method of sewing.

I haven't sewn in memory foam patches into my coat like this because it's too bulky to get in and out. All you need are warm sleeves from the coat. The memory foam vest is most optimal for your torso morso, and you're aorta, sorta!

 This hunter green arm warmer took me the most years to find and all the years of my search for how to achieve this my outfit, and it stores heat also.. that is to say while it won't work in the wind outdoors without at least putting on some outer PUL liners, even for a 0-degree day I found that I could go out with this outfit the bibs, the shoes, the hat and the arm warmers

for 45 minutes and quite a lot of comfort.

Beyond 45 minutes though or winter snow so you really do want to use the dry layer method coat method, just strap on the other coat.

The reason I mentioned this about going outside with the arm warmers on is because it's more convenient..you don't have to keep taking off and put it on coats all the time and it makes me look like a cool macho muscle man.

The dry layer method is   for feet and headwear and cold and wind and snow outside when needed, even so the 1/4 inch memory foam sleeve outfit and memory foam vest I got from Goodwill method itself is awesome for saving heat and general comfort inside. It's not too clunky or heavy and you can move around in it, and unlike the dry layer method which only has the dry layer and you're not too dry this is also dry and so it's actually superior to wear if like me you spend 3/4 of your time indoors in winter.

Dry and warm (inside was sew foam) wins out over moist and warm (like the dry layer outside) because sooner or later you have to take it off even if you're comfortable for hours more. While the dry layer is often awesome inside or out The memory foam and Thermolite coat and microfiber blanket method (PM sleep) is superior for other use.

You really don't want the whole outfit to be stuffed with too much foam, even so by these methods you have enough.

 As I say I've been interested in taking the challenge of going down to 52 degrees night and day in my house. The blankets work just fine and outside it's hopefully 52.

My landlord where I live says not to do this because if it's too low it'll do something like damage the window frost with some kind of high sci windows we have.

Even so I tend to sort of compromise like on the weekends and go for the challenge because for me it's like an engineering challenge and I just can't resist and also if you don't have a landlord like mine and you have one that likes this challenge a lot or you've had landlords like I've had in the past, you may be able do this all the time or maybe the outside likes the challenge!

 Agricultural workers, postal workers senior citizens, people like me who like to exercise and be with neighbors, and anyone who just generally likes to be cozy in the winter may benefit from this site!

 When seniors lose their driving privileges their behavioral and physical health takes a downturn and my belief is one of the main reasons is that winter and summer becomes a burden.

 If you've had this happen don't worry you won't have to start searching for 30 years like I've had to "by sense of feel". You can be finished with it in 3 days! Only the lack of knowledge kept me from finding it before. What you want to exists, you just have to find it!

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR HOUSE WHILE SAVING HEAT

 This was one that stumped me because for all the years that I was searching for ways to save heat, outdoors was first. I was just trying to solve outdoors with the dry layer and now I've kind of reached inward to find ways to solve it also even at 52° constantly if I have to.

As usual for years I always had the miserable wet coats before I found these methods.

A NOTE ABOUT MEMORY FOAM

The reason at first  when I tried memory foam I thought it wasn't worth much turned out to be not because it wasn't worth anything but because I used it outdoors try the simple method first.

 But outdoors it gets wet and the wind blows right through it.

 Thus I was delayed in finding the real value of memory foam and that is mostly for saving heat indoors or staying cozy in the air conditioning.

 Even so if it gets wet it's not warm like when I'm cleaning the house for several hours.. the year of the month inspection where I live!

Usually when you have something like a fabric the faster it wicks the faster it dries.

 And for memory foam it's essentially the most wicking of all I found yet. 

 So if I spend 3 hours cleaning as I have today I don't have to take it off when I'm finished because it's kind of wet after 3 hours instead just wait 15 minutes and it's really nice and dry again.

 

For this I'm saying if you want to be dry and warm inside, memory foam is awesome provided you just don't move around a lot and you also wear just an outer layer like action wear is fine.

 Even with heavy exercise for 30 minites however memory foam sleeves and the vest really don't get much wet, and they don't get much wet for an hour and 20 minutes of walking which I use to lose weight as Prevention magazine says.. see my link at the end of this post..

So while memory foam isn't much worth for outside use or for inside with heavy exercise for long duration if you don't move around a lot you can stay toasty and warm all day and you heat up real fast.

 

One thing about saving heat like this was about hand warmth.

Here I want to share with you some handwarming methods that I guarantee you will in no way knock your socks off, even so of worth in November!

As I say oven mitts are good for this.

I recommend getting like 8 in cotton or polyester mitts, these are not so long you can't put them on but they do cover your wrists which is a major issue because it can hurt a lot if it's like no more than having your hand in a pot of bowling water for half an hour while the rest of you is nice and comfortable. Like laser surgery for your eyes no worse than being poked in your eye with a sharp value, no, no more cost!

And here is where I finally conclude this section..how do we clean house with heat cut down like in the morning hours.

As I say oven mitts are indispensable for warming up in the morning before the house is warm in the heat of 12 pm. They're much easier to get in and out of, this makes it easier for me to wave to my neighbors when they drive past! And big wheel arenas have control when the wheel's my world!

In addition mitts also make good pocket warmers inside your coat. You have different layers you can put your hands into for different comfort options if your hands get too cold or hot. I'm just a fan of waves in general..

 And inside the oven mitts I use sew foam liners like patches 3x5" perhaps. These keep the mitts from wearing out. This turned out to be a real issue actually because it's tough to get good looking durable oven mitts (most of them are Christmas or T day and not plain. You might sew fabric around the cuff of the oven mitts so that the edge doesn't show out of the pocket when you wear them for looks at any rate) so you want to make them not wear out. And memory foam patches are indeed antibacterial as I say.

 But how do you handle stuff that takes deft skill in those oven mitts, can you actually play violin real well, well yes if you use your cyber machine and saw! 

I had thought of cell phones as heaters for hands in the winter but these would burn up a lot of battery power. (I think cell phones actually may not be harmful as they find in research as they say because we lived in the tropics for millions of years and to go out into the heat and those rays go right through you I believe that other than perhaps 5g, the higher level of energy cell phones, they might even be healthy for you!)

 I realized to achieve skill with the mitts cutting off the tip of the thumb (and sewing around the edge so no insulation leaks out) will allow me to handle more stuff, and type in my words, while cleaning my house or whatever in the morning.

 Even so it's cumulative, any heat leak you have will become more and more annoying as it goes on.

 

 So I was starting to have pain just in that thumb.

 

 Finally I realized that if I put the pocket warmers in the microwave and then put them in my pocket (and these are great in the mitts for general warmup once they're warm and then your arms are warm you don't need them) and then alternate my hand in and out of my pocket with my thumb this will make it not get too cold while I was cleaning my house in the morning.

 

 The CMC (CarboxylMethylCellulose made out of a food additive so they're safe and cheap you can buy on eBay) packs win out here especially when you combine them with the oven mitts.

They're much better for insulation than holding heat as you may find with a nice surprise when you go outside and use them for pocket warmers. A good insulator of heat is also a good insulator of cold, just remember in the heat wave in a few months you can handle lots of frozen food while the rest of them are baked and you are regular more than extra crispy!

 

 An alternate trick is to use your oven mitts as pocket liners inside the bibs, these are actually  98.6. these are warm continually inside or out. 

ALL-TIME BEST METHOD FOR WARM HANDS IN THE MORNING!!

SIMPLY CUT SEW FOAM PATCHES AND PUT THEM IN YOUR POCKET.

 I USE THREE LAYERS OF 1/2 INCH SEW FOAM. IF THEY'RE NOT WARM ENOUGH JUST ADD MORE THIS USES YOUR OWN BODY HEAT! 

 These keep your hands warm like bib overalls except unlike bibs you don't have to wrestle them in and out to get her out of them like to go the restroom, and with memory foam liners for your 

For a faster warmup of your left hand you can of course use the hand warmer in your mitten.

My favorite hand warmer above all is CMC carboxylmethyl cellulose heat packs you can get online on eBay for like $10 mine are about 2 by 4". These have durable nylon bags around the outside and flex well.

 CMC as I say is a food additive so these packs seem to be safe and viable.

 For cozy feet in general I use the dry layer method for my socks and then around them I took memory foam and for the next layer I sew large socks since you can't find them that fit anywhere that are perhaps 10 inches around and this holds the memory foam booty to your foot when you put them inside of the the Neos overshoe, it's waterproof durable and lightweight.

 The larger sock is 10". (Since giant socks turn out to be tough to find, these are engineered by taking a usual sock cutting a line down the center and then sewing more sock cloth in this line) Value here is after you've removed all the other layers for your socks because you can put the candle warmers in these large socks to hold them to your feet.

 

 For saving heat indoors memory foam works really great even better than the dry layer used outside, I also used sew foam to make a vest with sleeves but these were a chore to flop on and off so the best method instead is to just buy a memory foam vest.

These turn out to be real tough to find on the web, in order to not  have the terrible flop each time you put on your shirt or coat on and off where it bunches up, you might be able to make your own flop proof memory foam by first making the vest and then sewing it between two shirt vests you cut off sleeves of if for some reason I can't find information on the web online I'm so smart! 

 A third option as I say below is neither to use the memory foam vest you "can't buy" online which may be much easier to find if you can find it which you can't! Nor the vest sewn between two layers, but rather the vest as it is with the belt looped around the back to keep it from flopping round.

 If you can find the vest online this is the best option of the three, I know this not because I'm a sleuth,  because by luck I found one at goodwill after 30 years or more in hopes to find it first and it works real well. My first warm indoor coat!

 My arms would always hurt a lot because they're wet and cold Even with the heat up to 75 I'm serious or laughing more about my comedy! So I made two of 1/ 4-in memory foam warmer and put them in my shirt these make GREAT arm warmers especially with the vest and an outer microfiber coat.

I originally tried 1/2-in sew foam inside my coats, but this was so big and clunky and it overheated that I had to discontinue it.

 The solution, and it's dramatically warmer than other methods, is to use 1/4 in sew foam.

While this is not as good for outdoors when you get wet like after exercise because the wind can blow right through you it is foam after all, indoors it's much better even than the dry layer method because it's dry AND warm.

 INDEED while it was a thrill at first I found that it even works too well and overheats. The 1/2 inch foam is also really tough to get inside most coats and the 1/4-in is more relaxing!

It's easy fast and cheap to make a sew foam coat liner.

 Just buy a $20 sheet of sew foam like on Etsy. You might want two or even three so you'll have a second coat liner for like when the other gets wet by exercise.

 Another great trick I use is just use the 1/4th in foam layer over the usual wicking shirt and if the foam is wet by exercise, just wear a heavy Thermolite or Thermore light coat these are strongly wicking and better than anything else I found other than the memory foam for this.

You can get Thermolite coats at Goodwill for just $5 and you'll know them by the soft and fuzzy feel like a microfiber blanket.

Try to get large size to fit over the memory foam.

 I'm also in R and D about making use of memory foam for leg warmers. Bib overalls work real well for this but I wonder if 1/4-in memory foam might be even more.

Remember that bib overalls aren't heavy to walk in much because the weight is balanced and supported at the center from the top by the straps, especially when the rest of your outfit weighs not much because of the use of the memory foam or Thermolite. 

The best way to walk comfortably with heavy pants is to first make sure they're not too tight and second cinch  higher up with your belt so the central balance is higher up and you're only supporting vertically.

 The main problem with leg comfort about walking turned out not to be the weight of the bibs with the light weight outfit but rather it was too tight so you want to buy large enough bibs to move easily in of some exercise extra size but not so much that they themselves are so big they outweigh the advantages.

As I say I have switched over to memory foam because it turns out to be superior even to bib overalls, like for the looks and because you can use the restroom in them more easily.

 Even so bibs are covering more than half your body and they really don't get as wet as coats I found so they really are warmer than other coats other than the memory foam and thermolite or with the PUL on the outside for the dryer method when needed.

  

 To make your coat liner simply wrap the sew foam around your arm. You'll only need one wicking shirt for your base layer when you're inside the house.

Measure and cut your sew foam to fit your arm and if you're in a hurry like I was after 25 years of search all you have to do is take thin cut duct tape (since it's poison when wet I don't use a lot, or you might use like transparent packing tape, eventually I'll just get around to sewing it with paper tape to keep the foam from tearing on the edges and the awl twine).

 I used just two duct tape strips for each arm warmer hugely ahead of SmartWool armed warmers $120 found!

 To make a vest if you can't find a memory foam vest on the web because they're tough to find, I found!... use a  piece of  foam over your shoulder. Simply cut the memory foam to fit all the way down your back and all the way to your waist and over your shoulder in one patch so it's twice the distance. To finish look and see where your head will fit through, cut a line here halfway through the patch and this is your vest that fits the sleeves.

 Just put on a shirt or a coat around it and you've got your liner.

 The warmer fits in the arms of your shirt and the vest will match up inside where they match. 

 One problem you might have if you can't find a memory foam vest when using memory foam like this is that the back would flop around and you can't add on your coat as easily.

I solved this (before I started using the best from the store) by taking an extra belt and cutting some notches in the back of the patch and then threading the belt through these two notches and then to use it you put on the vest and grab the belt around the back and loop it around the front and it's flat and won't flop around your back loosely or make it difficult to use your coat.

 For my hat indoors or out I use memory foam like one half inch sewn in my hat with a wicking base layer and a PUL or other waterproofing layer with the memory foam in between.

While as I say memory foam is dramatically warmer inside, be prepared for a shock when you go outside in the snow and wind with it because here it's miserable and you'll need at least a waterproof windproof layer on the outside to stop the wind.

 For saving heat inside memory foam is dramatically warmer, and it was too warm even 1/4 in memory foam, even with the heat down to 60 or even 55, so indoors I use a nylon coat  which holds more moisture and cools it down so it's just right.

 At night as I say two microfiber blankets are about 50% to 30% better than a sleeping bag which is already quite good to stay warm and cozy.

 And this is my most up-to-date method of being comfortable in the winter and saving heat inside. Outside I use the memory foam on the inside and the dry layer method for the coat on the outside plus the PUL water proofing layer.

So while the memory foam is a great addition for indoor weather control, the dry layer method still is a great classic for warm feet and to be cozy outside.

HOW TO USE HEATING PACKS

You may have heard of microwavable health socks. These may make you alive, but for comfort they're a pain.

You can't wear them in your shoe so you have to wear them out in the room with the cold and smell like a fish. Or perhaps not..How will a fish nose smell under the wave?

 In any event I was hoping to find a way to wear these socks and so I tried to cut a hole in the top of my boots to put them in there but they were totally miserable for warmth.  

(To  put them off and on you have to get totally miserable and wet like with many of the earlier methods I tried. All these later methods don't have this drawback you just add on the heat pack which you don't take off your base layer of foam. And the only sewing you may have to do for this method if you adopt it is to sew the socks and the PUL  liners for going out in the wind and rain and perhaps also like sewing the hat with memory foam into it and not much more for your complete outfit. You won't have to search as I did through about three complete outfits that didn't work including neoprene silicone and even I sewed sleeping bag ponchos, worthless, real heavy, miserable and cold, and they took me like 4 months of sewing each only to find what I thought was really good was neither the dry layer nor the memory foam with the heating packs. Using these tricks with the dry layer combined is dramatically improved and you won't have to do all the sewing like this I used to find out how. You're already out of the cold and I know you are but what am I! Ho ho ho! )

 This above (about the microwaveable health socks) might lead us to believe that heating packs are not of much value for staying warm while saving heat.

Years later I found I was real wrong about this because what you can do is find a large enough boot or sleeve to hold both memory foam and with room inside for heating packs my favorite being CMC microwaveable packs as I say.

These can be used over and over and the beauty here is you can put them inside the memory foam and it stores a lot of heat but it's toasty warm heat.

 You can use this inside of over shoes like the Neos over shoes I bought on eBay for about $50 used.

 The method I've used for the coldest days which we have maybe like 2 weeks of here where I live, is the first layer is the usual dry layer method as I say. The dry layer is indeed dramatically better for my cozy feet wherever you cozy where you are and so once you put the heating packs you might like others than the CMC you have on hand. Or irony or perma press more cuffs! Once you have the dry layer and for bags these days I just use grocery bags of plastic handle sort, inside my shoes and big socks I've sewn where most people don't visit so they can't see it.

 (This is one improvement on the dry layer method because all you have to do is double up the bags so they're waterproof even if they're not totally durable for a while and they fit well in your shoe and they're cheap to get at no cost or even cheaper.)

 So if you have the dry layer of socks between the waterproofing layers this is dramatically warmer.

I had sewn a much larger size sock for the dry layer because they're tough to find here while you might find them from a big and tall shop online but I suspected they are higher price.

A superior dry layer method is to use one  one flat thick sock that doesn't even have to be wicking. 

 This flatness simplifies the comfort because there's no bumps or tightness much, and you save on socks because you're not even buying a looking sock.

All you need are basic socks that don't wick for your base layer and then you have your first waterproofing layer which has two or three grocery bags they're durable enough and waterproof enough to last for three or four to go rounds of like walking 10 miles at a time as I do for exercise sometimes.

 (Prevention magazine says that walking for an hour and 20 will make you burn off a pound while only walking for an hour and makes you burn off only an ounce. This seems like major news for health value. See link at the end of the page for my post, or click here if you like for the same link

https://theocfs.blogspot.com/2019/02/how-i-lost-30-pounds-in-3-years.html?m=1

)

 This makes it so with the dry layer socks they aren't miserably tight.

I simply take the sock and cut a line down the center and then just sew in the other sock cloth to fit it to make it like 10 in around perhaps.

 So once the dry layer is around all you have to do is heat your hot pack and you've made booties out of the memory foam. This is simple and all you need is to cut it to fit your foot and then I tie it with heavy transparent packing tape because duct tape supposedly as the legend would go is poison when wet, what legend was this a Norse saga?

 So the booties are easy to make fast I also took some and wrapped around my ankle to fit and then sew them around for a really good cuff warmer. So you take the hot pack and stuff it into your memory foam booty and then you add the giant sock over it and this makes it so it won't flop around inside of your overshoe and it stays snug on your foot.

 You may want to sew your booty to fit which I haven't done yet deja shoe when just not yet.

 You stuff the pack in The booty and then you simply wrap the sock around it slides in and out of your Neos overshoe and then just clip the overshoe band around. You may not be able to run the marathon in these but I found that the comfort on the coldest days dramatically outweighs the weight! These are portable enough for taking out my trash or cleaning around the house or even exercising.

MY BEST TRICK FOR WARM FEET IN THE MORNING...

One problem with large memory foam filled over shoes like Neos Overshoes is that in order to get into them you have to lose your heat first, and this is not the best if your feet are already cold.

 And they cost at least $17 a year since they wear out every 3 years.

 And walking in them is really not that comfortable or viable especially for long distance walking even while they're waterproof and cozy warm.

 For these reasons I have opted in to a REAL good method for cozy warm feet fast in the morning, BEST METHOD EVER;

 Here again memory foam is the champ and what you do is take your usual shoes with the dry layer since about 3% of the time even with the Dry Layer you end up with cold feet like in the morning sometimes I get out of bed, doing something else, and I lose my heat.

 Heat packs are far too clunky and floppy, they work for elsewhere but not for your feet.

 Or on really cold days which we have at least 20 where I live every year when it's below 20, my feet would also get cooler.

 The dry layer method works wondrous even outdoors but it's not quite perfect.

 So to not lose your heat take like 1/2-in memory sew foam.. I like beautiful royal blue you can get from Etsy and fold it over..two or even four are better than one and then simply bungee the foam with a line to your shoe tying underneath.

While this is not for outdoor use since you can't really wear out the bungee line fast, and it doesn't look that good, you can walk around in it just fine in the house when nobody's here to see you other than if you're in church and you dream you have pink fuzzy house slippers on and you're in a pink fuzzy house!

 I tried slipping these into my Neos Over shoes for looks just in case, and they just won't fit so the only way for looks you might be able to make these viable in theory might be to take a large sole like of a Neos Overshoe, punch holes around the edge of it and then cut and tie something like heavy duty nylon sheets you can buy online, and hope to essentially make a Neos type over boot, that at least will look good, even while not waterproof and you can't walk far in it, but when the postage lady arrives she'll be more aware and relaxing!

This method of using multiple memory foam layers bungeed to the outside of your dry layer shoe is only for use inside perhaps where no one else can see, and I only use mine in the morning or at night. 

 Even so it seems the best option yet because it gives you enough ability to walk around the room in much comfort even on the coldest days which it's for.

 If you're at the office and you have cold feet I know some professionals who use a heater all summer and the miserable air conditioning which is controlled from some distant office in Texas, the experts of AC to stay warm!

 So if you're reading this right now in the office remember that you can at least use your memory foam under the shelf, have your feet even cozier if you like and no overseer will see just how so cozy and smooth you are in your shoes and socks!

 To remove from your desk just slide out of your slippers, and into shoes.

 (Slippers themselves have never done a darn thing for me without at least the dry layer, or least with more memory foam like this you can't usually buy.)

 

 Why hot packs are Cozy...

 Because when used with memory foam they radiate in and out the heat in the insulation as good as having your feet in a stove except the memory foam absorbs all that heat and radiates it back to your foot.

 This is dramatically warmer for cold feet if you use it with the dry layer method also inside your boot because once you put it back into your usual shoe without the foam or the heating pad it stays warm all the rest of the day!

 The dry layer method is great as far as it goes except for the 3 weeks where it's really cold here but this is also great to have 3 weeks of your life back each year!

 Finally I want to say that this same method of storing the heat in the memory foam which once it's warm it pumps out the moisture which warms it up more which pumps out more moisture which warms it more.... can be used not just for your feet but also for your arm warmers if you take like a large coat and perhaps cut the line on the sleeves you can fit the memory foam in that you cut and band with whatever your favorite tape is or if your favorite tape turns out to be sewing!

 This warms up your entire arm and like with your heat packs and memory foam booties it stays warm in definitely if your permanent sign of  exemption won't run out right away!

 This may warm up even your entire arm without even having to use a heat pack so much if you use 1/2-in sew foam for the coldest days. I would assume as I say for saving heat packs otherwise will be relatively worthless, from the perspective of comfort because it would otherwise radiate out the heat into the room and this leaves me cold wet miserable as usual. Cost must have some worth somewhere, where is my big tube Visa!

 And these are real value for a shoulder warmer inside your memory foam wrap outside by the same method.

 I originally found out about this by trying the obvious method of putting the heat pack inside the memory foam wrap for use out side where I needed it most since this was the dry layer method with PUL around the outside which I used to make it look good and to make it waterproof and truly a dry layer.

 This is so your shoulders aren't in a lot of pain outside, it's even better for warm feet and arms inside. I would spend 3/4 of my time inside and the foot misery otherwise when saving heat was a pain for like 3 weeks a year.

 The dry layer is wonderously good as far as it goes for wind and rain outside and for one cozy feet 80% of the time or 90% but memory foam with the packs inside is even better. 

 

 (Elsewhere on this page below I'll show you how also to dramatically reduce summer discomfort for more continuous control, as the philosopher said it's not important what happens to you, your reaction is what counts. I found that if I need sympathy about saving heat in the winter that there's no guarantee I'll get it without changing my reaction enough to be more self-sufficient on my own. I've been blessed but many other things but I found that if it's up to other people how much heat I get I may not always be able to be satisfied as much as also saving on the heat so more often I can have other things of value also with the money I save like for investment as I say above. If you're interested in making money click here for how I'm using my money to invest or you can see the same link at the bottom of the page if you like; "RICH RICHES ALMANACK"

https://ecmbiz.blogspot.com/?m=1)

HOW MUCH TO WEAR THE DRY LAYER OR THE MEMORY FOAM INSIDE?

 

 While memory foam is awesome for saving heat if you stay inside only like down to 55° or lower if you use the heat packs for your hands tied to your backpack so you can find them and heat them also, the wind will go right through foam outside.

 As I also say the dry layer method works for like 9 hours outdoors or indoors of mostly continuous heat.

You get a bit moist at the end but you can hardly feel it and it's warm toasty and windproof.  Your temperature does not drop off even for 9 hours.

 For your feet and hands all you have to do is use the dry layer method for your socks and oven mitts for pocket liners and this real well works all day.

(I don't use gloves because they cost and they're too tough to get in and out of quickly and almost all the gloves I ever bought unlike the oven mitts were not much for saying warm.)

 So these 4 methods one for feet and hands  and the dry layer for outside and the memory foam for inside are good for your feet but the memory foam and memory foam/dry layer methods have limits.

 While the dry layer used with memory sew foam inside works great as far as it goes for the 9 hours after this, it's not so optimal.

 One fun option is not to go out all day and just wear the memory foam since it breathes and is quite a bit more comfortable than the dry layer with memory foam inside the house.

 But I like to go out to meet my neighbors and do business and stores and for exercise,  talking is good and nicer with audio I box or wrestle with, who sez boom boxes are retro!

 More particularly for  inside if I use memory foam, a lot of times I'll get an idea to go out on the spur of moment, and then I realize when I'm halfway to the store that I wish I could have  used the dry layer method and not just memory foam.

 You could either do this by wearing memory foam for say like 4 hours and then the dry layer for when you go out. 

 Or you could flip this around and wear the dry layer first for 9 hours and then when you get back after you've done your business or whatever you then flip into the memory foam or bibs to dry out fast and comfortable.

 Other than for days when I'm not going out much, and I'm sure I'm not otherwise I use first the dry layer method for most of the day because if you wear your memory foam without the dry layer and you go out and lose your heat this just takes 1/2 an hour and not only have you been hit outdoors you also have to then return and  get your heat back which takes an hour or two sometimes. Best find just to be on my guard with these methods and not lose my heat anytime I could because this is really bad.  

If you live in the north this idea might save your life.

 

 Only after I finish all my business in and outside, and then dry out with the memory foam inside a second set of woovie pants with memory foam sewn onto them as well as a dry coat with a second set of sleeves while saving heat, am I comfortable all month or what!

 Unlike other methods where you will get really wet after you go outside and you're going to take off your wet miserable outfit this is solved by the superwicking power of the memory foam.

 Even so after several hours of exercise and up to 9 hours or more it finally gets only somewhat wet and cold though you can hardly feel it.

 

 This three-level method of the memory foam all day when you don't go out and then the dry layer method for most of the day when you are planning on going out is the method that gives me the most coverage and coverage can be real important if you get absent minded and wear your other outfit.

 So this is the plan I find most optimal for what I wear each day when it's cold weather.

 

One other option for saving heat with these methods is to put on your toasty warm memory foam without the dry layer method

hold on to your heat for a couple hours so it's really toasty, and then you can go out side for about a half an hour before you lose all your heat even in 0° weather.

 You might like this option the best since it's convenient on days when it's not raining or snowing but it does have the risk that you'll lose your heat if you stay out for much more than half an hour by this method. It's more convenient and you might say, so is the risk of a bit of pain. Where was that winning sweepstakes visa?

 I'm researching to see if I can always just wear this all day since I'm about 5 minutes walking distance from a Food Lion.

 The rule might be, woovie and memory foam for indoors all day is totally comfortable.

 Woovie and memory foam outdoors for up to half an hour if you're comfortable and you've been warm... with caution.

 For miserable weather outside I wear the dry layer method inside or out so I don't lose my darn heat in the morning for 9 hours and then dry out with other memory foam to make it back in the cozy microfiber blankets and sleep.

 Feetwear and mittens are always the same with the dry layer method and for the memory sew foam liners for the mittens.

 

 For warm hat I recommend CMC carboxy methyl cellulose wraps all the way around the head (as I say I'm an enthusiast about CMC because it's a food additive so it's probably safe to eat in the microwave and it makes a really great soft hotpack) and I've also taken PUL and made a hat or a hood that I've sewn to the vest or the jacket and then cinch it around with shoelace and the cord stop method.

 

 To make this hat look good even though it's a lot floppy even with the line cinching it, I took another heavier large brown hat and clamped it over the top with like a C clamp audio phones so I can read my audio or perhaps even the earfans in the heat

 

 Of course as I say on this page elsewhere that if with ingenuity some come up with something like fibregel coats which they advertise to be bone dry even in a torrential downpour and you are 20 times warmer and it weighs like 2 oz for the coat, obviously you would just wear this all the time, and with this scenario winter is indeed much more like summer.

 The main problem with the fibregel startup method, like perhaps most may be about the cost of setting it up and because it's a form of arerogel as I say.

 The promise seems hopeful but the science may not be yet real for any better method than memory foam.

 And I try to cheer up in my luxurious comfort because it isn't a pain, so far so good this is how it was through recorded history, and winter pain isn't the worst it gets especially if we're not in much and we reduced it dramatically by knowing what outfit to wear when.

 

 Other than a machine that puts on your outfit that I thought of with a  pair of pants and where you click where the foam and the rest lifts up automatically from the floor, my father would laugh about the bed that flips you over in the middle of the night so you don't have to stay hot in a heat wave or self tying shoes like they have now for Adidas (these I don't want to try, for $200 I get heart exercise!) Or pants which pull themselves up. I've thought of three or four self-making bed inventions and other than fibregel, this might be viable because like an agricultural worker they may spend a half an hour a day just putting on their outfit. At any  rate this is true if you wear bib overalls but by the methods here you might only take 10 minutes which is about as good as anybody else for putting on any outfit. This is reasonably good and much better than being in more pain! It may not be the best it will ever be but what is in 100 years.

Basically since you put on your outfit in the morning anyway if you know the right outfit to put on, you can make the indoors outdoors with no more labor than that due to the 9 or more hours inside or out that the dry layer will allow.

This method for the dry layer with the memory foam inside for most of the day is actually easier to put on and wear than bib overalls. Otherwise if you wear the memory foam alone and you lose your heat it will often take hours to get your heat back if you're saving heat at any rate like I do.

Using the dry layer method for most of the day and then drying out well when I return is the best I find for saving heat because I don't lose my heat.

 One reason I'm saving heat at any rate is because my heat pump doesn't work. And since I've had landlords and I'm sure many of you have bosses who just want to turn down the heat I decided to become independent of this type of influence.

I would bring it up to 75 or more and I was miserably cold.

 Not only that I still go out and freeze, so I vowed just to become an investor by saving money and learn to be more comfortable both indoors and out.

 If you're not saving heat I hope these methods are a great value to you for outdoors because you are saving heat if I can be a value to your method.

 If you want or have to save heat inside this is the way to stay the course.

What you don't see here as much are all the things I went through to find the dry layer and the memory foam.

Often like a lot with hopeful heat saves I searched and searched for ways to find warm, going through neoprene, silicone,  Aerogel, nylon, and more sewing for 6 and a half years of trial and error.

Finally I found the memory foam method and the dry layer method. During the time I was searching for them I had to both do the research and pay for the cold both.

 And each time I looked for another way to solve it I often went through an elaborate tedious process of digging out through all my clothes and the box and going through insulation options one by one to find whatever I thought might fit to work and then tediously sewing them.

 This means that my house was often topsy turvy and I had to continually clean it to keep my site manager feeling cozy and comfortable where I live.

 And because of all this digging and searching I had to spend about an hour extra cleaning everyday from all the searching.

 The total cost to me for search and research was about 4 hours a day for years.

 So because of things like this you can see that the knowledge that I give you here hopefully will be valuable because you'll save all that cleaning time effort and money by knowing what may work well for you as have they worked well for me.

  

HOW I WEAR MY OUTFITS ALL DAY... WHAT I WEAR IN THE MORNING AND WHY I CONSIDER IT MOST OPTIMAL..

I put on my woovie pants (easier to slide into and much more cozy than memory foam alone, it multiplies up and evens out the heat) with the 1/4 inch mem foam sewn on the outside of them, and I also add on a layer of dry (much better) Smartwool socks.. one pair, and then the waterproof socks and then a large dry layer boot sock, and I also put on my memory foam vest with the memory foam sleeves sewn to them. Here as I say the shoe being waterproof in dry weather doesn't need a second dry layer but this is essential when it's wet.

 Then I add on a double waterproofing layer of PUL for my coat and the PUL pants.

 Finally I put on a heavy duck coat for the dry layer that doesn't weigh much (cost me $100 and totally  worthless in the wind unless used for a dry layer in which case it's a treasure I bought like three times extra large and so it's not too tight but it's really toasty warm).

 Next I put on a layer or two of PUL for the jacket. I took my PUL vest I'd sewn and also cut a line up the center from the vest and then you can sew buttons with shoelaces tied into loops on the other side and this makes it much easier to get in and out of than a pullover PUL jacket even so a jacket on the outside looks quite simple and cool like in royal blue. And it's also more windproof and waterproof even if somewhat tougher to get and out of.

 When I go outside I microwave my CPC packs around my hat which you want to wrap all the way around your head with the packs.

I leave it on medium high for about 45 seconds and then maybe a second heatup event for about 15 sec.

 And in  the morning after I put on my tennis shoes I also use the microwave hand warmers that I can find because they're tied to the backpack.

 Oven mitts will tend to finish out the picture, especially if you put sew foam patches in them so they don't wear out and they keep your hands even warmer and dryer!

 Sew foam patches also make great cheap pocket liners for toasty warm hands.

This is my entire method so far for saving heat indoors and outside, can't do without outside!

For saving heat these are a real saving method.

MORE about the ZORB

P..S..MUCH OF THE REST OF THIS PAGE IS ABOUT WINTER AND AT ANY RATE ONLY ARCHIVAL, AND THE ABOVE AS YOU CAN SEE MAY BE MORE THAN ENOUGH TO SOLVE IT FOR WINTER,  YOU CAN DISREGARD THE REST OF YOU LIKE OR JUST USE IT FOR HISTORICAL VALUE.. THE SUMMER METHODS MAYBE EVEN BETTER!

Relax and be amazed; Zorb is super super wicking lightweight and soft and like a sort of cheap essential luxury on your skin. The huge advantage of the Zorb base layer is about how it's super wicking and dry skin feels 5 times warmer than wet skin!  The base layer controls all, even a cheese sandwich!

The second layer indoors is a breathable midweight coat like an insulated blue jeans jacket of cotton or polyester insulation. You can wear this all day to stay dry indoors because it breathes. And you can even sleep in the Zorb in a sleeping bag or two because it doesn't overheat if you use the right number of layers and you also don't lose your heat in the morning while you save heat.

 It takes a bit of sewing your Zorb base layers sewn from the sheets which takes just an hour per layer per sheet.. And likewise for sewing the outer windproofing waterproofing PUL layers.

Here's the link For the Zorb and PUL site

https://www.wazoodle.com/fabrics/zorb.html or see link at end of post if you like..

This link is best for the Zorb. I favor the Etsy site with Mama Bear Baby Bear PUL for PUL which I think has better PUL for more waterproof and insulated value, at about $12 a sheet which is enough for one pair of pants or one waterproofing layer above.

 I wear the Zorb base layers, or 1 layer like in the spring or fall plus the blue jeans insulated coat all day and then the PUL layers perhaps 3 for a complete rain and wind shield outside. While you can get both Zorbs and PUL sheets (unlike the woovie poncho which you can get made and sewn from sites like Endurance Survival) I found  no PUL or Zorb shirts or pants that were pre-made so I had to sew them myself. 

 Before I found the dry layer method the woovie was one of my best methods of staying warm outside but It still has considerable importance like you're making booties out of them that are thin and warm. (See below for why the Woovie, the army poncho blanket liner may have considerable use) For about just 10 each for one layer like your coat from the Zorb/Wazoodle site you have to sew it DIY from the sheets as you see in my sewing tips below. "A larger needle and waxed awl twine is real easy to thread and doesn't snag or break right, foam is a wall of sound and what the most up housewheres where by!"

While unlike goretex, for PUL sheets you can get colors for more options they may not look good enough on the outside so I use an outer cheap goodlooking nylon coat otherwise worthless for comfort in the wind and ☔.

You may find a nylon coat like this in easy reach without lots of digging if you just sew it like with an inch or sew of twine at the waist to the blue jeans coat OR SEW IT SEAMS! I Wear the Zorb and this polyester type coat indoors with the nylon shell coat tucked inside. Then to go out I just put on some PUL liners and use the nylon coat or other coat on the outside if needed. It's already on the outfit so it's in reach I know without extra digging to find it.

My all time best method for AC and spring /fall.

***** The ZORB with a standard 250 Merino Smartwool base layer are bone dry and super comfortable indoors like in AC or 60 degrees indoors so you save heat. (As I say below Smartwool socks no stink are far the best I've seen above for warm cozy feet if used with Puma Tennis shoes). 

Have you heard that expression by the Thinsulate business "staying dry is staying warm"? While this is partially true a lot of the types of insulation (all of them) I've used didn't even keep me dry anyhow. Dry ice is dry but not on fire, maybe having enough fire water would solve it....The deeper method I say is staying hot is staying cushier then the luxury of AC at Christmas I'm dreaming of a tan Christmas! You can't stay dry with most base layers but on an 85 degree day with moist wind you don't need dry,  heat is fine. 

 And this is why your feet were so miserably cool. Your feet are radiating out huge amounts of heat all day right through the heaviest boot!

Yes water sends your heat away 20 times more than powder slush, no it's not a blanket either at 32!

I tell you this as a result of years of miserable moisture at least in the daytime, at night you may like two sleeping bags. I use a heavy sewn to a light bag at 55. While sleeping bags are far better than blankets or electric blankets (which I' ve had people say theirs caught fire due to cheap wires rhey use) best yet like are microfiber blankets which are 1/3 more comfy than sleeping bags if you double  them up.

Staying dry is easy  indoors with AC and the Zorb and a simple smartwool base layer. (To save on the base layer smartwool below the Zorb I bought both top and pants in plus sizes and sewed them to fit. Even at this XXL size of closeouts like Sierra Trading Post or Backcountry they were 60$ each and most went for 100$ or more smartwool like the ancient golden fleece is highly prized by our civilizaation!)

Smartwool works. With the Zorb. Ahhh.

Yet..

Outdoors it's not near enough...

The wind is a pain.. Other science and math than math are needed!

As I was saying staying hot

 is staying cozy..Yet paradoxically being dry both is and isn't the REAL solution to an outdoor heat shield..

Having a dry layer of insulation multiplies the insulation power a lot!

I found this out by luck and just tried some pants outside my PUL pants. without the PUL layer outside the pants were like bib overalls they were somewhat heavy but warm but THEY DON'T FEEL SO COLD AND WET...YOUR  ARMS DONT DROP OFF IN FIVE MINUTES AND STAY COLD WITH THIS DRY LAYER METHOD FOR COAT, IT DOESNT HIT AND... You can wear them hours more in comfort inside and out even in the wind and rain even with no outer layer .. "if you don't get them wet!." (memory foam doesn't work well wet without the waterproofing PUL outside because it's cold on your skin especially around the edge where the steam leaks out and it's wet and cold and this seems to make it worthless. Even so as I say above I'm researching whether this might have just been because it was too tight and not because it's not a good idea if I use the Etsy PUL sheets if I sew them large and you use the memory foam if it's dry enough to be viable. This might work the best of all if it works if not it's not the polyester dry layer may be the best at any other rate!

  Outfits you can wear both in and outside are a real feel and it's even more a way you can up your cozy hour when you go outside. Even so for best results since you do get wet eventually it is more comfortable like 3 or 4 hours outside and while this is fine I also recommend taking off the waterproof layer once you make it inside. It's really not natural to wear a coat like this all day and while the dry layer method is wondrously better for outside it may be better to be dry and warm indoors for your health in general.

There are three levels of cold. Indoors, outdoors cold and outdoors colder, also with wind, rain, and snow. 

On this page I'll try to show you how I learned to solve each of these levels.

...WARM FEET HOW TO!

SIMPLY APPLY THE SAME METHOD...base layer wicking smartwool socks. Then the Pul sandwich layer with a dry sock layer between and finally the decorative sock layer. For the dry layer just add another layer if your feet are a bit colder in the deep winter. This will dramatically improve foot comfort...You feet put out pints of moisture a day and this counteracts all of it! Believe me this works great in or outside. You are indeed like 10 times warmer..

I used thin synthetic outer socks for the layer for looks and also this makes it much easier to slide in and out of your shoe and who needs the the battery the electric can opener, the powered teethbrush, and the powered shoe horn, we need more in the inventor's wall of fame and foam and the FM radio that powers the station!

And this dry layer sandwich method for cozy foot health is better than electric charged foot heaters you see because you don't have to take them out and charge them two times a day, with your feet miserable while you're waiting for them to warm back up (and of course to change them outside even tougher) and no risk of shock and since you dont have to buy two pair for continuous heat and they dont cost 300$! And sooner or later often they stop since you are dependant for value on the maker.. dry layers of the working base layer like  these are warm all day not just 4 hours, and you aren't paying for all that heat to heat the water (Even so the heater might work well if for the dry layer if it was used to make the battery last 5 days or you could buy a coat to heat your arms which I haven't seen, where's my stationary storerich!) and 100 years if you have 300 dollars extra (and your well meaning or "means well" boss likes the luxury of a.c..). 

Electric coat heaters like the expensive battery heated vest you see on some mail order catalogs that cost like $200 are not what they seem because your arms will freeze and other coat heaters like the Torch Coat heater even if patented, is where it still says in the reviews that you just feel like you're walking around in a hot water bottle because as I say this makes sense if you're actually counteracting all that heat radiating away and heating all that moisture, and it's by no means windproof waterproof and somewhat breathable like PUL! OR EVEN ABSOLUTELY SOMEWHAT and so it's simpler just to add a dry layer and stay moist inside but not nearly as miserable and the Torch coat heater, of course won't heat your arm even so. Sure you can heat any coat because the torch is modular as patented and well as in the sales they promote, you strap it inside the coat. My  dry layer find seems a lot more comfortable especially since it's completely windproof and waterproof. I realize I felt this in deja Vu in my Oldsmobile when I sleep learned I was going up the highway at 55 and rewind with my mother driving! I felt safe and why wonder why!

For the dry shoe layer I also use woovie socks in layers with the smartwools (no stink or nose think, the nose nos) which even remove 4/5 of the odor of other socks. I've sewn these because they are thin and insulative. 

For the waterproofing layers I recommend waterproof socks you can get on eBay for 20 each if you want to pay this much. This may not work as well as liners like PUL or even bread sacks since they may breathe and so they'll get your dry layer wet.

 Originally for this I was using Amazon waterproof  bags but they really didn't tend to be that durable. So, for a while I tried to edit on up by my own bootstraps first to thicker booties made out of three mil poly sheets I bought at the agricultural supply store near where I live in a field of math and multipliers on up into the cosmos like a genius at physics and math when I collect residuals with each launch of an airship! While these are super cheap and might be an option if I had larger shoes (like 40 pair of these waterproof booties which you make out of paper tape or perhaps transparent packing tape because duct tape itself is poisonous when wet so you don't want to use it), they seem so stiff in my tennis shoes that they seem to damage my toes with weeks of wearing them. Next I was trying a 3 foot bit of PUL around my socks for each in hopes to make these labor well. (Hint. Be sure to sew these booties and other socks so they fit close enough to your feet if needed or more bunching will make them too tight on your foot. For me at any rate more than size men's 14 is tough to find. For women you can just buy men's shoes you might like to fit your size.  (To sew them to fit wrap to PUL or other fabric you might want to sew around your foot or perhaps your arm noting where it wraps around this much and after you perhaps mark where the two sides meet like with a clip, then either cut along the line where you've marked it or else sew it and then cut it so it fits well.)) 

On the outside of my base layer the wicking layer I use the PUL booty and then I use the dry layer and finally another waterproofing layer like the booty. But since I couldn't find a thin enough layer I was actually using bread bags. Since I often ate bread it made me feel like I was walking with the upper crust of the earth, highhat, right ..

I wore an outer layer of usual black polyester socks to cover up the bread sacks for looks and this outer layer makes it much easier to slide in and out also.

Finally for this I realized that heavier poly grocery bags work well. They're thick enough that they're durable but thin enough to be flexible on your foot without cramping up your shoe.

Even so though I don't know you may be able to just buy waterproof socks for a simpler method..

How to buy waterproof socks for this...

A faster method if you have at least 40$ to spare may be to just buy two pairs of smartwool (I have many exta smartwools)

for the base and dry layers and two more pair of waterproof Pul socks you can buy on Ebay for 20$ each, the cheapest I've seen. The water proof socks are the outside decorative layer. The size of your socks that determine the shoe size is one size up for each sock layer..So since I'm using 4 layers of socks and my shoe size is 11 I bought size 15 at least and these are a bit tight on my feet so you want like 5 or six sizes up if you can find them . The Puma tennis shoes are lightweight and durable and waterproof and insulated so they dont flop or mess around! I think of my feet wear like clown shoes and the shoe must go on, always let my best side shoe!

For the layers buy first your size then one size up for each additional layer out. . So for me the inner layer is size 10, so the waterproof sock layer is 11 the dry layers might be 12 and 13 and the outer sock might be a 14 and the shoe is like 16 if I can find it. 

I personally haven't tried waterproof socks for this and one caution might be that you don't want to buy the ones that pump the moisture out of your foot because you're pumping it right into your dry layer.

Incredible as it me seem, waterproof socks may not be as good as using simple plastic bags, they're waterproof socks if they're not so thick they hurt your foot. This may be more possible if you can find a large enough shoe size which I was never to find even size 16 and if your foot is larger than size 16 you may not be able to find ones without using thinner plastic bags for this.

If I dont have to "Look for Looks" in this size...or shoes that look good in this size and can be tough to find.. if you have a small feet your luck is doing well right away! 

 If not, these shoes like I wear are easier to find with reduced search by cutting  like a pair of neoprene pants to make spats out of the legs that fit your ankle like you might sew on  the shoe "the spat method" and they are just as durable and comfortable and cheaper...

While I'm not certain I would think just one base wicking layer and just one waterproof sock layer would be fine with the dry layer outside no outside waterproof layer if you also use this between the shield and a waterproof boot or shoe. Above all you need an outer dry layer between either another outside waterproof layer and the shoe fits the hand here well and the inner waterproof layer. For me this isn't so cramped and its the same if your shoe is real sealed well from the rain. Even so any shoe leaks will be a pain as most have in the rain if it's wet!

While you may like boots with cleats since usually for me the soles were always what would crash first, I would think cleats would make me feel heavy.

Perhaps the best way here

might be to use over socks over your shoes that you can buy for sports I don't know if they'd last on the road, however.. an inventor in Sweden has devised the auto sock! Wait for it... What's the auto sock? You boost traction to your wheel in the ice like Sweden where else by throwing on the sock not the muffler and you don't even have to stop the wheel just throw it on it attaches to the wheel like a sock to a shoe and this was devised believe it or not because the inventor's grandmother would always throw on socks over her shoes to make them not slide on the ice! Put on your shoes and socks but not necessarily in that order! Where is the giant shoe for the auto!

For super toasty cozy cheer indoors all you need is the base wicking layers, the waterproofing layers with the sandwich dry layers as many as you like..  (You want to use waxed awl twine (somewhat heavier line than thread) to sew PUL not thread as by the sewing tips also on this page. Sewing thread is flimsy and awl twine is just as easy to sew but it doesn't snag or break and it's much easy to thread in a somewhat larger eye of the needle) .You often won't see these methods sold in stores..I've made them myself and they work.

Before I understood about the value of the dry layer, I even once tried wrapping blankets and duct tape around my shoes with duct tape to save heat money but they were so clunky they hurt my ankles and they were wide and they were no warmer. 

The dry layer allows cheaper far lighter more powerful insulation!

For cheap Pumas since they seem to look bad but are warm and toasty on Ebay you can buy the cheap ones and make your own foot covers as I say above of eg like neoprene or heavy nylon to cover the look and they are cheap durable comfortable and look good too. A pair of neoprene pants with nylon cost just 35 on Ebay and all you have to do is cut the leg tube sideways and then just sew it like to the laces of the tennis shoe and around the edge...with all this I got around paying like 70$ for good looking Pumas and looks and looks alone. Looks I had right from the start. It's what's inside is what counts. I have my own portable exercise machine so when I want to go for a walk at Christmas it's more like a celebration than pain. Edison said, your worth consists not what in what you own but in who you are..

++++++++

The same trick for the electric heated vest used as the dry layer dry between the waterproof windproof PUL layers works great outside and it needs like 11 minutes of low heat all day. Even so like the electric vest it gets wet and uncomfortable but only after like 5 hours not 2. You might think an electric vest is paradise but they get wet and you have to heat all that moisture after 3 hours like a usual coat.. Much improved when used as a dry layer..Even so for inside I like the wicking base layer and wicking insulated heavier insulated coat with the dry layer sock method since this works best for me and stays drier and warmer continuously.

Battery heated vests the cheapest are just 40 on Amazon when you use your own phone battery. I got mine

at the pawn shop where I live for just 5$.

The cheaper battery heated vest turns out to be a gyp because most phone batteries turn off after about 4 minutes to not overcharge your phone.

********

MY ABSOLUTE BEST INDOOR OUTFIT

I thought of bib overalls as too heavy and I was unable to walk in them but I was wrong.. this is with a usual heavy coat..

More recently I've made a quantum leap at any rate with memory foam indoors..

 There were two reasons why I thought the bibs were too heavy.. 1.they were too tight, and 2. I was wearing a heavy coat.

I recommend getting bibs that are two or three sizes too large so you can walk around in them easily. The weight is mostly not a problem because the bands over the top make them easy to move in, at any rate if you use super light weight memory foam to make your vest and other base layer  as I'll show you how by the following special method...

 As I say, like anyone else I tried first memory foam for outdoors and this doesn't work. While the wind blows right through you outdoors and they wick moisture around the edge, memory foam is a super super advantage indoors to be comfortable..

 As I say I use sew foam (memory foam with a polyester backing used for upholstery and crafts so it doesn't flop around and tear up in two or three days, instead of years. It's easy to buy with a roll on eBay for just like $20 for a 2 yd by 1 yd roll.).

 By trial and error I finally found that memory foam really is a treasure at least for comfort though it's not completely known for safety. People are really emotional about winter with things like the possibility of making millions by the money saved as above and all the other reasons it's uncomfortable and that sew foam is comfortable.

Chemicals used in making sew foam like tuoluene are considered to be inert and not active enough to cause harm. The evidence about this maybe ongoing to find and so you may want to check about this from time to time on the web.

My major discovery inside was about how memory foam as far as I know for safety as it is here in November 2021 won't work for usual pants because they're too thin.

 If instead however you make a memory foam vest for inside your shirt and inside your bib overalls as well as in large lightweight durable over boots (like the Neos overshoes I use that are supposed to be for boots but work for the giant space needed for memory foam), with a hat made of sew foam (and the PUL sewn outside for inside the hat  so you make it a dry layer), has value (as far as is often claimed by some at any rate). This is especially good if you use a double memory sew foam layer. I thought it would look too large but actually it was kind of macho and regular.. I combine this with the usual wicking base layer and the dry layer for warm feet inside the overshoes  (no waterproofing layer even needed indoors anymore! ITS DRY ALSO..) by the waterproof PUL booties, or you can use the dry layer shoes for more high speed travel around the sox box in moderate weather.. And I also use pieces of sew foam as great pocket warmers! These are also strongly antibacterial and remove most types of germs so if you put your hands to your mouth 3 times a minute as seen for most rewinds in videos (NFL sniffles!) you're not getting germs which can be a problem about itching see below about itching.

Two patches of half inch sew foam like a great ham sandwich or hand sandwich it's not even like bulky like the oven mitts and they tend to be a bit moist for the warmup and cool and this is dry and cozy inside the overalls.

Even so since mittens cover your hands all the way over it's good to use memory foam patches inside your mittens to make your mittens not wear out on the inside where you grip them if you just keep them in your pocket on the same side where the grip goes regrip them since they're just oven mitts and easier to get in and out of and they never wear out even though they only cost a dollar and they're also dryer and anti bacterial mittens, no more winter sniffles and these days this may be life and labor saving..

 I also like to use the memory foam to make sock liners so socks don't itch and my feet are toasty warm..It's necessary to use the dry layer method to keep your feet warm like your tennis shoes but they're even warmer if you wrap around inside your sock with these memory foam patches like two inches by 10 inches.

This looks just fine on the outside and the memory foam doesn't flop around if you just buy some diabetic socks or size super large socks on the outside.

 While this method of using memory foam for lining your bibs and your coat works REAL well compared to other methods for comfort, there was one other thing that kept me off the shining path to memory foam rvanna inside at any rate.

This was, the memory foam while now lightweight enough for wearing the bibs would still always seem to be so big and clunk junk I couldn't even move around the room.

 And it was so pink on the outside. 

  The pinkness is just solved by wearing it inside your bibs and your coat as your base layer.

 To solve the clunk I just use a vest made of it, it doesn't cover you all under and it's easy to get in and out of it but it's massively warmer like inside the bibs to reradiate the dry heat and this hybrid method is lightweight enough to walk in but much cozier than all the rest.. this ads almost no weight and is simply done by cutting a front and back panel and then just sewing together on both sides at the top so it forms a nice vest.

 I found that while this is much better than an electric vest for $200 that goes in the junk and their gold will rust, it actually has uneven heating that's much drier than an electric heated vest and it heats you all over! Even though what heating memory sew foam has is toasty warm, it's flat so it has areas where it doesn't contact your skin mostly, this is real easy to solve just by wearing a base layer like a polyester wiking shirt to gloriously even out the heat..

 I don't use other expensive base layers anymore because the dry layer if needed, and the memory foam for common use work so well that Zorb is not what I use anymore..

 

Be sure to measure it so it reaches all the way down to your waist because if you have an area with no inulation it'll be cooler than comfortable! 

 Only one other thing was involved and this was about the arms and sleeves oh, right! And legs may be of worth not being in constant discomfort, even better. Another 75% improved and of course I'm indoors most of the time so this is the main savings not even the outdoor dry layer method which works much better with the memory foam as your dry layer..

For inside the bib overalls as with the vest I use either two large patches 2'x2' for wrapping around my waist and my upper legs and then I sew smaller patches like 8"x 8" for on the top of my legs to make an upside down u shape with the 2' patch above around my waist onto these down the legs.. these don't fall down because they're attached to the upper patch and the top patch of the U sew on the inside of your pants on the inside around your waist front and back so the patches don't fall down.

The rear patch makes it much easier to sit down like on a cold bench outdoors. And for your sleeves for mild winter weather you can basically sew a tube around your wrist perhaps 6 inches 5 inches in height that wraps around so you can get into it easily inside your shirt at the right width and then finally you merely sew linear patches for up inside your sleeve mostly to your shoulder.

 For sewing sew foam, since even with the polyester backing it tears I use paper tape around the edge not duct tape since according to some it's poison when wet. If you don't have paper tape in reach heavy duty transparent packing tape might do in a ship with S and H already saved up..

 This method is indeed lightweight enough that you can move around the room the 75% of your time when inside without a lot of bulk. And it's dramatically warmer..

Even so for like a 40° day outside for hours even while the memory foam best is dramatically warmer, all the coats I could find were with sleeves not big enough so the coat will look too bulky anyhow so the only thing that works for my sleeves is to use the dry layer for this with the memory foam layer anyhow method and that is to put on the vest and a shirt without memory foam in the sleeves because it's too large unless you have a giant coat which is tough to find. (Maybe eventually I'll be able to find a giant coat it's light enough for the dry layer with the memory foam both but till then the only other option might be to sew my own giant coat but it's still a giant coat so ultimately  the memory foam makes it look so large which won't do for "hot" winter weather around town so I just use the memory foam vest and add on the waterproofing layers over the base wicking layer like a shirt and then add a coat for the dry layer which will fit my otherwise tight sleeves and then finally for going outside when necessary, if ever, in Alaska!) Just add on the two good-looking waterproofing PUL layers like royal blue or hunter green, from the Mama Bear site on Etsy which seems to be more waterproof durable for the cost and good looking than other PUL I found anywhere else.

 Outside,  just slap on a coat and the PUL layers and you're already warmed up  by the bibs and cozy memory foam and feet by the dry layer good to go.

Because it also distributes your heat more evenly with the coat or the bibs you don't have to cover all of your arm or your legs just enough to keep the heat in circulation and it works just fine! If it gets a little cool sometimes just move the patch around and it has plenty of heat.

 So I find that 1/2 inch sew foam is often too hot and you can't wear it at night even though 1/4 inch sew foam is actually good for many uses. So you might like buying both 1/8 and 1/4 inch sew foam. I'm going to make two sets of  vests One for the winter and one for the fall and spring..

HERE'S MY HIGHEST RECOMMENDED COAT FOR INDOORS THE R&D GOES ON OR IT STOPS FOR SOME R&R IN 30 YEARS!

I FIRST FOUND OUT ABOUT MICROFIBER BLANKETS WHEN I BOUGHT ONE BY LUCK FROM THE THRIFT SHOP AND I TELL YOU IT'S SUPERIOR EVEN TO A SLEEPING BAG PERHAPS A THIRD MORE OR BETTER  AS GOOD AS LOOKING BAGS ARE ESPECIALLY IF YOU DOUBLE THEM UP AND THEY DON'T EVEN OVER HEAT MUCH LIKE IN MARCH OR OCT.

 ALSO JUST BY LUCK I FOUND SOME THERMOLITE COATS AND THESE ARE SUPERIOR TO ALL OTHER COATS I'D EVER BEEN HUGGED BY BECAUSE THEY'RE DRYER AND WARMER.. THESE ARE BETTER THAN ALL OTHER COATS FOR ARM WARMTH THEY GET MY HIGHEST RATING.. THEY'RE NOT THE SAME AS THE BIBS BUT THEY'RE JUST AS GOODFOR ARM COMFORT. BIBS NEVER WORKED FOR ME ONCE FOR ARM WARMTH LIKE A DUCK COAT BUT THEY'RE JUST FINE FOR LEGS OR WHATEVER REASON. I'M GOING TO BE SEARCHING FOR THERMOLITE PANTS.. YOU WANT TO BUY A THICK THERMOLITE COAT FOR YOUR ARMS THIS IS VASTLY SUPERIOR INDOORS FOR THIS USE. MINE IS CALLED THERMOLITE PLUS. BE SURE TO BUY ONE EXTRA LARGE FOR OUTSIDE YOUR OTHER ONE, THIS IS EVEN BETTER. 

 

While this is real comfortable inside and even better with a wicking base layer/memory foam vest method, outdoors at least in the wind and rain and snow the dry layer method is still the best over these three layers. I can tell you this works REALLY WELL certainly the best I'd seen it any rate by over three decades of research.

 The bibs, the sew foam, the PUL, the over shoes and the smartwool socks, they all might cost you $40 each for a total of just $160 to 200$. I got my two microfiber, thermolite coats for about 6$ and both blankets for about $10 each at Goodwill. As I say you get a lot more than if you buy something like an electric heated vest or electric pants. If you have an eight room house you might easily get your money back the first month in heat saved.

 

 Disregard some of the following.. I have put off having high speed on the internet! 

See bold print below and you can compare the contrast these two, my yoga zonk out goes on..

For saving heat with warm hands is there is a way...

 Before, I used a long sleeve like of wicking and insulating material when I sewed the liners. I used the Zorb and Woovie layers of the outside sleeves when I sewed them with about 3 inches more from the wrist. Then if you cut holes in the sleeves so it's around your hand and use oven mitts inside Zorb and Woovie pockets it's more than good enough for inside, it reradiates the heat even if your hand isn't shielded if you also use the heat from the oven mitts in your pockets, well heat from you! This will warm your hands at 55 (52 is too low for me and just save 3$ more a month in heat, while 55 feels fine enough) so you can clean or do other stuff like type this while you save heat. . thanks for the cheeze clicks.  

Another trick I used before is to simply take polyester oven mitts and heat them in the microwave for 30 seconds on medium.

Always be careful with your timer because polyester can catch fire and your mittens are gone. If you rub your hands together and they start to smoke this is another way to keep your hands warm-like starting a fire!

Your hands may be warm for years! but your mittens are gone..

This is the fast way to warm hands because the oven mitt retains the heat inside your pocket..

 BETTER...

THE ARMY IS USING A METHOD OF HEATERS ON YOUR FOREARM TO BE ABLE TO HANDLE STUFF IN THE COLD AT 32° WITHOUT DISCOMFORT BY INCREASING THE CIRCULATION TO YOUR HANDS BY DILATING THE BLOOD VESSELS.

THIS IS WHERE SEW FOAM BECOMES VALUABLE..

Your hands and your arms are warm enough inside to do this and I tried gyppy smart wool arm warmers.. for inside use sew foam is vastly better.

 And other than the bibs it looks like you're not wearing much heavy insulation so it's good looking too.

You may have seen those hand warmers without fingers you flip up and down to try to keep your hands warm with the mitten...these are totally worthless for comfort and while they might even have some value if you had enough insulation, one method I can't wait to try is to basically use sew foam and cover most of my hands except the fingers with like mittens like this.

You can make these the usual way you make your own mittens.. this is with the cloth or perhaps the sew foam and you lay your hand flat on it and trace a line around the outside with a pencil or marker. You might also want to cover them with a durable cloth cover so they don't wear out it's sew foam even with the polyester backing still wears out eventually.

Backing is actually both the front and the back of a coat and insulation is what keeps the heat in but insolation is radiation from the outside. They may say we'll hurt the king's English but there is no king as far as I know! My mom The English professor might with the word beauteous not beautiful! She'll make a dent or an indent in the line with it!

 

All you might have to do then is use paper tape to make the edges not tear as I say instead of duct tape and then simply sew the hand shields above and below around the edges together.. this might be great for saving heat like in the morning.

 I use medium large bibs for my size, larger ones are too heavy and smaller ones are too tight to walk in.

 Wendy or wet weather you can just add on a heavy lightweight coat and the PUL liners, looks great and good looking and PUL or other waterproof windproof pants.

I haven't yet tried this about sew foam yet, if it works for high wind and bad weather, but I definitely know that memory foam works REAL WELL indoors and that outdoors the dryer method with the PUL liners is also the best I've ever had for outside.

 When the wind is not blowing at any rate, the memory foam vest and patches method are good enough for walking outside.

 And they have enough heat retained to easily go out to do things like take out the trash to the safe or if you win the Publisher's Cleaning house, recycles rubbish!

 For general warmth saving heat no, not outside yet! The action wear/sew foam vest/microfiber or thermal light coat (if thick enough) is guaranteed to be warm enough inside and lighter than a usual coat easily down to 55 on the heater. (And be sure to turn on your pipes if outside it's below 20 outside).If you sew it yourself so the sleeves and legs are large enough you can move around easily unlike a heavy tight coat and it doesn't get wet like the coat. EVEN SEW SEW A SEW FOAM OUTFIT IS BEST AS I SAY..To sew as I say wrap the fabric around a larger coat than you need to always be sure it's not too tight.

For lighter weather like a 60° day outside or higher it's really easy to just wear the sew foam without the bibs or the coat, It even fits in my old blue jeans so you can wear sew foam and then I use a pair pants and then blue jeans, but also it would be better I presume if you use 1/4 inch sew foam instead of 1/2. This is both lighter weight and just so tight for blue jeans. And love songs on the radio seem more aware with Fm foam!

The Woovie layer method is like a sleeping bag poncho I once tried in my search but much thinner and doesn't get wet because it breathes.

For indoors memory foam gets my absolute top vote!

As for the deeper winter outside like 5 degrees I use the Zorb base layer then the PUL sandwich layer which works well down to 20 degrees. And on top I use sew foam sleeves sewn to my heavy outer vest with PUL both inside and outside the tube for your arms. This is like for days when the high is 20°.

Where I live this is only like one day a year although sometimes three weeks so mostly I don't even have to use this.

The Best Fasteners I've Seen

The main way to solve zipper crash I'd found is to Make your shirt or coat into a pullover. This turns out to be the easiest because you just take your coat turn it inside out and line up the zippers where the teeth are even and you have them clamped together with your hand so that you now simply take waxed awl twine by the method of sewing and sew them together (see sewing how to below, The awl twine doesn't snag, is much more durable and far easier to thread and won't break like flimsy thread). 

The best sewing loop I found is an over and over zigzag over the border at an angle like a spiral plus to lock the stitch you pull the needle through and then loop the thread around it through three times and then pull it through every three or four loops. If you make the loops regular from the outside this is by using regular stitches and also the lock stitch where you move the needle with a thread around three times is done nearer to the zipper and the loops only show just a bit on the outside, especially if you use matching thread and regular loops.

Since you can't get your head inside of too narrow zip stitch at the top if you sew all the way up, I find it optimal to give it maybe three more inches of unsewn zipper and then bind it at the end of this sew. And then sew a button on the inside and use half of the hook and eye fasteners (the loop) also on the inside if the button will fit it and you don't have to sew a buttonhole and it looks cool because I use like a gold brad to sew it for the button, or you can just sew the buttonhole.

The reason this is the best I'd found (other than sewing buttons and shoestring loops for clothes that have to look good and also are tougher to get in and out without being able to button and button, more below) and it's real cheap. This is because the edge of the zipper usually has a kind of woven cloth that's really easy to sew through, yet stout, so the zipper becomes a binder that looks far better on the outside than methods to save the zipper and adjust the coat like sewing even buttons a lot of times or other fasteners. Because of the ease of the zipper to sew this is much easier than sewing fasteners (other than the buttons as I say) of other types I'd seen. It's a permanent zipper, and looks good overall at a distance at any rate.. Good enough for me.

The best "fastener" (if like  me you don't want just pullovers) might be using the loop of D rings like used for belts (or any kind of smooth metal ring like 1/8 inch on the side smaller than a belt D ring might be best) with lanyard or caribiner type clothes snaps or snaps like this from Walmart.. if you sew both the clips on one side and the d-rings on the other side once you have it set up makes a nice snap click that's reliable to click and unclick. 

Even so this won't look as good on the outside. And thus for my outer coat if the seal is out I simply sew the zip from the inside out with the button and the one loop sewn to fit the button size well and wear this on the outside for looks.

  Smaller size hook and eyes don't work, and a zipper will crash and these don't when under tension. Cheap poly zippers for general use and reduced tension are seen on Amazon for about a dollar each and I imagined these might be good to make the PUL layer inside from a pullover to a zip liner, it's like rubber plastic and often tough to pull over, but they dont work... crashed the first time! Hook and eyes come unfastened. Buttons are too tough to sew the buttonhole without damage to the outfit as with just looping twine through the loop (even while viable so perhaps best in general). Lanyard clips work best with a snap to a paperclip or D ring with both sewn under (inside) both sides of a heavy coat for a solid "seal". A floppier coat will show lines of the stretch with clips and larger buttons are more smoothing out. For fasteners for most coats for me sewing the zipper is most optimal.

While this is the best in general the second best I've seen in about 20 years of R and D for fasteners are lanyard clothes snaps I bought at Walmart, these are rather like " caribiner clips" with a way you can sew at one side to your outfit.. On the other side you sew the D-ring and you can save many coats and outfits with these since the zipper will stop ahead of the rest of your outfit and your outfit like "action wear"(which far out lasts other outfits as I say below if you buy darker colors that don't stain and I like mine to show through beautiful like patterns) may be useable 10 or 20 times more.

It's somewhat tougher to take on and off a pullover coat than it is to fasten fasteners. At any rate I don't want five pullover layers to wear, for example for a fast cooldown if it's hot as I say or to wear the outfit I'm just not comfortable with too many pullovers! Our cat is totally coat claustrophobic of having a blanket pulled over it and they are a celebrity. Right!

Thus I use the most zip sewn pullovers I'm comfortable with but also with the rest of the zipper crashes I sew more fasteners.

Readers Digest says! And one of their old volumes! "to save on clothes just buy expensive clothes".

I definitely believe that if you know the right kind of outfit to buy you save a lot more and using the method of sewing from the inside out about the zipper is one of the major ways to save on outfits. With no stain of darker durable cloth (and some highlight patterns where it won't stain as much like on shoulders) and the zipper gone I've saved the most.

 The third fastener method is to use buttons and shoe strings that you tie into loops and sew on the opposite side. This is just as cheap as  if you sew the zipper as above but it's actually easier to fasten than the carabiner clips because (semi somewhat) you have to clip them just so. And this is cheaper than the clips.

All you need to do is sew the buttons on the  side and then tie your loops to fit the buttons.. make sure they're just a bit larger than the button so you can fit them but not too small or large, then sew them together and sew them to your coat on the other side. Unlike the zipper you can layer on layers of your coats and you can also sew them to fit. 

HOW TO SAVE ON BELTS

 I could never find belts that fit even though I'm not even large size.

They're expensive there's that gyp sham of  genuine leather, "the soybean that jumped over the moon!" Right..

To make a cheap belt that works simply buy you some cord stoppers I recommend YKK you can buy on eBay. These are the small tabs you slide your line through,  grabs it with the spring and mostly it doesn't slide away.

 To use it simply loop your line like shoelace around your belt loops or holes you punch like in your pockets so you can loop it around so it doesn't show.

 

Now loop it through your cord stopper.

Lots of cord stops you can buy on eBay like a hundred for $20 and not all just black.

Some of them have two line snap areas and some have one.

Even if it has one like the more expensive fat stops you can actually just loop your line around one side of your hat or etc and tie it through and then the other side that's wrapped around you simply throw the line through the cord stopper and if the hole is reduced on this side, All you have to do to, make your pants from size XXLVXI  to the real size of this conversation is slide it so it's tight, and either with two lines through the cord stop or one or you then have to do is tie a knot on your string with enough size and you're done. So here you have a belt that works and fits for and is continuously adjustable and fits any outfit for the cost of the line which will be boot line I use 72" black line. The stops might be 10 cents.

I still use belts both for traction and looks and nostalgia...must be nice being richer..

 This cord stop method works well for hats and if one stop doesn't stop it you can just use more.

WELL I USE THIS METHOD FOR BELTS.

 The cost of belts is high and just searching to find them is kind of expensive but this isn't the real cost saved.

 The cost is in the labor of searching through all your clothes each day to find another belt to fit in the pants because you don't have enough because you haven't paid $300 for all those belts.

 If you look at it this way just spending 4 minutes a day searching for belts can cost you hundreds each year and it's valuable time lost you may never get back.

 So the real saving by making your belts like this with cord stops is about how you have enough for all your clothes because you can make them in 3 minutes! This seems  like about how Patton the famous general tried to bomb Hawaii in planes to stop the lava flow before WW II and it might be easier here for us in 2022, to win the the Battle of the Bulge, and so, it seems, the war!

While these fastener methods might seem simple and obvious it actually took me 20 years of search to find them. If you like just follow my instructions for the one in 30 things I found that actually worked here 20 of them for winter and 5 for summer and you'll have "the best winter outfit" of anyone around..

For example most gloves are a sham,  instead, oven mitts work real well.. in the summer heat clip on ice cubes on your fan are a sham and so are water cooled pillows, they warm up to too hot in a half an hour and weigh about 30 lbs to move from the refrigerator to your bed.

Instead like to go to sleep in hot weather I use cool pop pillows and simply spray my sheets with cool water and this works dramatically well.

We see sites where they say we could imagine a sheet that has tubes of plastic that you pump air through but these would be far too heavy and clammy not like the sheet which dries out after 4 hours, you wake up toasty and dry in the morning.

I looked up about a water filled mattress, but they need to be cleaned once a week where you drag out the 200 lb mattress into the bathroom and hope you can drain all the mold out of it..You know you're going to have a tough day when the wife says "hey, flip the mattress dear" and you own a wave number bed! Just wait for the world to spin 24 hours! Ahh, relax!

 With sew foam sleeves on the coldest days you can still slide in and out which you can toss in the out with the vest if you're double o savin..and add the 1 and 00 saved, and multiply..

 The other reason for the memory foam sleeves is they are real lightweight and my arms always would be colder than my vest. And once you sew this and set it up there's no more needed, I have a defense for all weather, and why shouldn't weather have a snug fit in the heat at Xmas..

So I have the standard wicking base layer and PUL sandwich layer for use outside down to 20 degrees. Colder and I use this with the sew foam sleeve vest with the arms of sew foam and one final outside layer of  PUL since the foam is for insulation and you want it to be dry also.. Not only sending the heat out 20 times more when wet, can you imagine how I must feel when the wind starts to blow and I feel brass hat, champion and well read!

Electric coats or pants charge like $120 -200 or more and promise toasty warmth and while they  really hope to charge perhaps all you get is  amazingly an area of heat well measily at any rate. While it may cost a bit you cover a lot or area code well unlike these expensive electric coats, you don't have to keep monitoring the battery in the rain in hopes you don't catch fire.

 While I haven't tried them my guess is a cheap electric vest you buy online that pretend to use your own cell phone battery like DIY don't work because the battery cycles on and off to try to keep from damaging the cell phone and so it's basically worthless compared to these other methods like the dry layer for warm cozy feet outdoors, and the memory foam.

 

 Beyond the set up with this coat if you build a better coat it's much lower maintenance, almost no maintenance because all you have to do is wear it.  One thing they don't tell you about battery heated coats is you have to keep remembering to cycle the battery on and off in the off-season of summer and in winter your arms and legs are mostly miserably cold due to lack of PUL and memory foam or other insulation which you couldn't wear with the electric coat due the risk of ignition.   

 This is the only real caution I can think of for the memory foam PUL sandwich method. While there are fire retardants added  and while the PUL itself  being completely waterproof is much like the plastic suits used in chemical warfare and considered to be the best defense against chemicals and thus from the flame retardants  used in memory foam and also since the safety is mostly proved by memory foam being used mostly in upholstery etcetera,  this risk may be at any rate less than that of an electric coat that doesn't even work. 

SO IN SUM.. No MATH Is NEEDED!

 

FOUR LAYERS

BASE

BASE ZORB LAYER (OR LAYERS LIKE SMARTWOOL IF I CAN AFFORD IT.)

 SmartWool is overrated for outside..see above about staying hot and staying hot.  Like about global warming  it's been found in R@ D the sun is burning hotter has been found.  When the sun heats up the planets heat up with carbon dioxide atmospheres and they cooldown with the change also.  Cosmic surprise Neuroscience edits on up!

Zorb and or SmartWool "for the best skin feel by no pills" like the Zorb has somewhat,  though other base layers may be cheaper while the Zorb/ SmartWool combo method  is great for air conditioning.... BEATS ALL OTHER BASE LAYERS 10 BILLION %

SECOND LAYER (inside the halls of Christmas yule saving went 12 months ahead. Same hustle and bustle. The web is a solution!)

COTTON BLUE JEANS or POLYESTER insulating. WICKING BREATHABLE LAYER  like a blue jeans jacket

"ADDS MORE INSULATION SPEEDS DRYING OF ZORB BREATHES,  EVEN MORE ADDS INSULATION"

THIRD LAYER (OUTSIDE)

PUL two layers plus memory foam sandwiched between PUL (put on when you go outside though I wear them all the light reading hours so I don't have to constantly add them off and this would be minus.)

MAY NEED 3 LAYERS BUT UNLIKE ALL OTHER METHODS PUL IS VIABLE COMPLETELY  WINDPROOF WATERPROOF ANTIBACTERIAL MOISTURE HEAT PUMPING DURABLE THIN LIGHTWEIGHT AND MORE (AS ABOVE).  Unlike Eva or nylon completely wind and waterproof..and cheap..

FOURTH LAYER

SHELL 

OPTIONAL FOR LOOKS

I use just Medicinal clay and water to cleanse my clothes..

The Zorbs wash quite well.  I use water in the box and pour the water down the drain with a box no wider than the width of drain since it won't spill and doesn't cost for the detergent and is non polluting. Water is called the "Universal Solvent", soaking in water is a powerful cleanser. I let the soaking do most of the scrubbing for me like for linoleum floors when the manager arrives and we shine up our pithy prose and comedy for her. 

For cleansing I love the fresh whiff of my clothes after I soak them in clay like bentonite clay.

My mom would always say that she loves the smell of the clothes on the line after they're dry and this about using clay to me seems 2/3 better.

 Clay like medicinal clay Is a wondrous detoxifier and it's pulling all those toxins out of your clothes instead of just covering it up with complex chemicals that might not be safe in detergents. 

 The skin is considered to be the most mistreated area of the body and clay may be a good defense because not only does it make your clothes smell good it's actually absorbing toxins out of your system and they've done research about how many toxins most people have in their circulation and they have like 200 of them sailing around!

 Skin cancer is the way most cancer starts and 2/3 will have cancer so I consider this to be wisdom about clay. It was used for absorbing out tooth discomfort for thousands of years and I'm not just a big tooth!

Bentonite clay however

has problems with lead so you may want to try other types of clay.

(The promoters of bentonite say that it absorbs in lead from your body and into the clay as you digest it while research shows that stomach acid absorbs out the lead and you absorb it.)

  l use one set of two zorbs while the other is drying.  Since two sets are of use for deeper winter  I bought five 5 Zorbs for my coat  and two more for my pants you want to sew size extra large.

Wazoodle  charges about $11 a sheet  for standard 60 inch by 1 yd Zorb or PUL sheets plus 8 S and H.  I think if you bought it as one order you'll save a lot on shipping and handling.

Note; after about a year the Zorb loses it's absorbent power and no longer keeps me dry and the better method I found as I say below about saving heat indoors is like to make my own sew foam/ memory foam sleeve liners and wear them  inside the coat plus the memory foam vest.

This is much better than even the Zorb and just as cheap.

 Etsy PUL is about 15 per swath and I highly recommend royal blue, save some for me!

 My experience has taught me above all that it's all in the materials. Even so I used a lot of trial and error to find these methods. I use much different methods as I say here for hands feet and the hat comfort plus the PUL sew memory foam method for general toasty weather all month year round.. These methods may not have been obvious to me but I hope they will be to you. All I had to do  was look up on the web and find no site like mine!...and since I couldn't be where I'm using cheap simple reliable methods, here you are! I really sympathize about  both the cold and heat.

 Hopefully with this I'll be able to love the weather year round. Not just in February I love Summer in August  I love Christmas!  

While they must be used in combination for outdoors, for this special use the ZORB/PUL  sandwich memory sew foam/Insulation method works far beyond all I had tried,  and the Zorb with blue jeans jacket is both super wicking and more durable yet lightweight as thinsulate but not flimsy and breathes yet with insulation. 

The main difference between indoors and outdoors is, indoors  you use insulation plus breathing to radiate out moisture  while outdoors you have to absorb out the  inside moisture with much the same result for the Zorb for as long as you can use it at any rate (like 6 hours of definite or reasonable comfort or more with the  Zorb and PUL  inside or out or better yet if you stay inside with the sew foam liner and  Levi's jacket). The other main distinction for the outdoors is that in addition to absorbing the moisture away from inside which the Zorb does quite well, you also have to limit the incoming moisture and wind where PUL also excels.

 Everyone knows about the three layers the base layer , the mid layer and the waterproofing layer but this is with the layer nobody knows about, the waterproof layer between the base layer and the mid layer that makes a major difference.

You can sew  the entire outfit of one layer in about a day, faster with a sewing machine or you can hire somebody to do your slang for good; good news about winter and misery! Right what a Christmas celebration yell not a miserable Christmas celebration! 

The inner and outer PUL stops the wind completely if for your waist you also cut belt holes and use a belt around to tighten it up a bit plus the belt around the pants. If it doesn't quite meet at the waist just pull the top belt down a bit by gravity. All this works even better with an insulated coat even a blue jeans ranch house must be rich!

This about the Zorb and the PUL sandwich insulation/or memory foam layer method is my most recent update  and it's far better than all the rest so please ignore all the rest of these archival methods other than the summer cooling methods which I still use. While I still recommend using SmartWool socks and Puma tennis shoes ( they're insulated waterproof and good looking durable and lightweight so you can get 3 sizes larger for 3 or more smartwools than usual size) for unbeatable feet  comfort, and while I still highly recommend oven mitts for pocket liners and for mittens,  other than for hats  which is a new method, I have spoken...

P.S Other than... The perfect heating hat!

The hat has the same method as above  using the Zorb base layer for the hood and the PUL outer hat for windproofing, looks and waterproofing (" what does wind look like?") 

for the Hat  and mittens.

For heavy weather I took neoprene from pants and sewed them with sew foam in tubes that wrap all the way around my shoulder and then used the toggle bolts aka cord stoppers as found on ebay at 10 a dozen with holes punched and lines through each end and then use a second smaller tube around my ears. Since this wasn't tight on my face from the sides I sewed a nice blue headband around from the back of the tube and finished by sewing the top ear tube and the lower wide tube together high and low. This needs no heating if you wear with a woovie and Zorb liner while neoprene is wet and clammy because the neoprene has the dry sew foam layer inside it's dramatically warmer and windproof and waterproof my best hat of all time after years of goat phd level history!

 Inside this neoprene memory foam layer I wear the zorb and the woovie (more about this....) It also needs this base layer for comfort and to seal off the air leaks for the coldest weather.

Here's an old method I used that works well in cool not cold weather;

 I use microwavable heating packs.  Hold on before you say they just won't work or they have safety issues cause of toxicity or they're just $40 for a cheap bit of jello, consider CMC microwavable Pax! While they're not any good for summer time cooling packs as advertised  because they're like a rock when cold and then they don't cool (a 32 oz ice water bottle inside your arm and all around or ice packs for your feet and pillow to save on the AC as you go to sleep at night are much better for summer heat because they last for hours with even cooling at 32 degrees unlike expensive 250$ PCM cooling vests with who knows what chemical. Ice is a cheap PCM Phase Change Material that takes 4 hours to heat up to more than 32 even out in the heat see below about heat control for my methods) CMC packs do indeed turn out to be really great for microwave heating pads  for your head and inside your mittens with smaller ones in winter. 

 what is CMC?

 Carboxymethylcellulose. A mouthfull! It's a cheap food processing ingredient  So, it's considered safe  and you can easily get packs like this for $10 on eBay that work so cost is not an issue. While I found that CMC packs are too heavy for shoes or else where since they're somewhat heavy and too floppy to heat a large pack in the microwave with too much weight the value for your hat and mittens is CMC is great  because you retain the heat inside the Zorb or Mitten for hours!

 If you're saving heat or you've been outside in the cold (although you may not even be much uncomfortable with these methods) and want a real treat heat the heavy polyester insulated coat and bib overalls in the dryer they have great heat in just 5 minutes in your dryer and you wear it no not the dryer mine has few signs of wear..Just add the coat around the Zorb, a cozy hug because the coat and bibs holds heat much better.  

Update; while I did the calculation and even when toasting up my entire double layer Zorb it takes just 3 minutes to heat the Zorb and so one 20th of an hour at a dollar an hour is 5 cents per use so it's just 1.50 a month even so the smartwool and Zorb layer are usually so warm they don't need toasting. No problem to solve- means the problem must be solved! This is great for in the AM saving heat each day. And be sure to toast your dry layer socks for your feet anytime you like. I tie my right oven mitt to my coat sleeve with a line so I can do things with my right hand and my left mitt I sew to my pocket with a hybrid method so that only my right hand has a looser mitt since its also unpredictable to put on other coats etc and the pocket on the left reduces risk of snarls yet the right is more mobile. Since both mitts are tied to my coat once I toast them in the dryer they are REAL cozy in the AM and in reach.

PPS. Actually it turned out the dryer is rather expensive per month and so you might want to use the microwave since mine had a wave crunch I haven't used it yet.

While smartwool even with the nifty no stink feature is the warmest my feet have felt, sometimes I'm e.g. without the best waterproof Puma tennis shoes like while I wait for more to walk my way from the shoe biz and sometimes on some rain sloshed hours I tried cheap waterproofing liners from the poly sheet from the agriculture store, even so my feet are sometimes cold. 

 In my search for cozy feet I tried "microwavy able health socks". Not recommended. They're filled with grain hulls. If you just make a DIY pair with a sock and save 20 they may hold heat a while but only for about 10 minutes and then your feet are cold clunky wet and they smell like a dead fish, with no way to wash out the stink, the easy way to wash out a bowl of grain if it's putrid is a new bowl of grain. Etc. No need to elaborate. 

You can't walk in them they are far too large to fit in the shoe shop even if they sell Ohio size socks. Hope where ever you go you are in Hawaii!

 I bought two CMC packs  for my hat. You can get them on eBay for $10 each. One was not enough to reach both sides of my face,  So I got two and tied them in tandem with the awl twine. (If you like see below the sewing diagram for some sewing tips for how to sew by hand fast, cheap, rich, well hopes for cheap and rich at any rate or at any ant @ rate.). If you sew them like this sew right around the edge so you don't  puncture the packs. CMC packs had a nice easy close band.  Not only are these super insulative but to a considerable degree they are self-heating if you forget to heat them in the heat wave!  How so and more. This way even if you forget to heat them they're well insulated and give heat in about 30 minutes. 

To never lose heating packs for the mittens  since they heat with low heat I tied shoelines to them both and heat  them on low heat  with no problem.  To not wear out the Packs though mine have never spilled since they are heavy duty made, you want to wear them on the top of your hand inside the mitten not the palm..  This is no problem since they radiate right in your hand for real value..

With this for comfort, and a great morale boost on a cold day and the Zorb hood sewn in general to the double coat liner Zorb so if you forget your hat you won't and for this use, I combine thus with the CMC microwave heat pack around the Zorb around my shoulders with the PUL hat outside. 

 The woovie, for reasons I say below are also a real world away from all the other methods I used. I went through about 20 or 30 methods like each for warm feet, hands, and the coat. For warm hands, I found that oven mitts like plain are good enough to be cheap and cheap enough to be cheap and cozy!

THIS MAY BE THE BEST And I'm Not Even Amazin Yet! My Cheese and Whey Is Rising So Much In Months Ahead, the whey at higher rate!

Winter Perspiration

The methods I list here are the result of my thousands of dollars of time and investment, they aren't an accident, and are a cozy warm hope of celebration for you at any event.

In 35 years, I think I never had one warm coat. 

A CFS Way To Reduce Perspiration I've Found (Don't Know if it will work for Anyone);

Is to merely Eat Whole Wheat Bread! This makes sense since fiber is like a sponge, and this absorbs the moisture out of you. Also to improve if you have CFS dehydration, I've found for me at any rate that prune juice in moderation works well. These are both to be used in moderation, both can have bad side effects as you see on other sites if used too much. Combining wheat with juices is a way to have many flavorful combinations that get around the junk food sold in stores. (40% of what you see in stores isn't even food (by the definition used "what's how to live"). Combinations of bread and e.g. juice have no fat low calories, low cholesterol and low sugar if you also combine them with vegetable juices.  For the value I find in moderation just sandwiches, or milk or juice or even ketchup or mustard, they go so well with wheat; so too for apple juice or other juice and prune juice goes reasonably well with the bread and in a jug of milk perhaps? Right, you know more than me I'm just making this up for you!

Another combination method like this for balancing blood sugar (commonly valuable for CFS for a fast easy to make dairy treat), I just combine no fat milk (it's also low in cholesterol, just 1% per serving) with the types of juices you see on the shelf, Dr Oz says this combination of 1/3 each of fat carbs and protein is a good way to balance blood sugar. This may be why treats like Reeses peanut butter cups taste so good, it's 3 in one fat carbs and complete protein. In addition I use this real simple method of blending the juice and milk (which may put ice cream out of business, since it's in easier reach and has far more flavors and low fat and cholesterol with lo fat milk and doesn't hurt your tooth to bite it) is also a great way to save your teeth by using a small straw and a special to mechanically separate most of the sugar I eat from my teeth yet have the real flavor, good for oxytocin the brain's pleasure hormone as I say in the link, or see my link at the end of the post, CLICK HERE. 

IS THE WOOVIE  (Army Poncho  Blanket Liner) Faster Than MEMORY FOAM, Or THE MOST POWERFUL CUSHION ON THE PLANET?? 

I wrote the above method about memory foam before I found the army poncho blanket liner which I now consider superior to memory foam, but not the Zorb/Coat/PUL Dry Layer method at least for more general use. The army liner is like a thin blanket but the thinness allows breathe ability; its real fast to dry faster than memory foam. Awesome and radiant for staying dry. You may ask what's the real value of dryness if it's freezing cold outside in usual outfits? When I got my liners in the post, I thought at first it was a gyp, it was so thin! Dont be fooled, the answer is in the thin. Right, the blanket poncho liner has thin but powerful superinsulating polyester.

 The worth of insulation here is, heat stays in but the moisture wicks out, in just like 15 minutes, the fastest way I'd ever seen (before The Zorb base layer with like an outer coat on days like below 40,which is the main method I use now. The woovie is by the army, and the army will know the best way to save lives, ours and help the world's I hope. 

The blanket liner as seen on Ebay is just 15 or so for enough to sew most of an outfit. They worked so well after I sewed the blanket in an outfit of underwear I'm more satisfied than even with memory foam. The later method  double Zorb base plus  polyester insulative coat is best for indoors. 

This trick worked so well I'm trying insulated cotton bib overalls for my legs  with the Zorb base layer.  I'm hoping the lightweight Zorb wont make the bibs too heavy. (Nylon bibs are worthless for comfort since since they don't breathe and are miserably wet. IMO "Nylon is not of value" other than a thin outside shell for looks.)

 I'm using Woovie socks I've sewn for my feet with smart wool, a layer of waterproof durable Puma tennis shoes, they outlive 1000 boxes of BHA! (the most durable waterproof insulated of any footwear I've ever seen...for more about this see below) the woovie booties between two layers of smartwool, as I found to my dismay on a warmer day the smart wool alone is not nearly as comfortable as the two smartwool layers with the bootie of the blanket liner between, only the liner bootie makes enough difference to have real cozy feet all the time. 

This works well indeed, I got to try it the first of January when I was without stamps and I had to deliver a note across town. It's 0 or 10 below outside and I'm in the wind for an hour in the tennis shoes and my liner suit, and my feet and legs were toastier than doubt. All it took were two layers of the blanket liner for my legs and coat. It's easy to conceive of more since it's so thin and easy to use. It's like wearing a pair of "relatively" worthless heavy nylon bib overalls I bought that were wet and miserable as usual in 3 hours for 7$ not 100$, and real dry and warm, and I'm wearing blue jeans. No need to remove it in misery in 3 hours, it drys fast.

One great advantage of the liner is it doesn't over or underheat. I take out my trash or read letters in my woovie with just pants and a light jacket, or out for longer walks in my woovies and silicone arm liners, (see below) and it's not a real shock on my arms like it always was in the old days of the Wild West in Ohio, and is here also! Click here for the ebay liner page, or see link at end of site.

Advantages of The Liner

Over Thinsulate

Washable

Washable, there is polyester inside of stitching that makes it completely washable, the insulation in inside of areas that the stitching holds so it doesn't more around. Thinsulate is so flimsy it tears in just awhile, so just using thinsulate causes wear in like a week. The woovies go on like for 10 years.

Clean

Since you can't wash thinsulate and it's not nearly as wicking as the woovie, it's always sour and wet. Woovie is dry in the morning and Santa  always wins the War, so it's cleaner than thinsulate

Lighter and Thinner

I used just two layers of woovie pants the day it was cold, and I wasn't much cold other than my face, I was warm all over.

( Even so for the outdoors note that the woovie etc. plus dry layer coat coat is the only way to do this when it's 10 below,. 

For my face I'm considering use of a rechargeable hair dryer attached to a tube up from my coat since here we're not allowed to wear mufflers outdoors in my state.

Easy to Sew

The woovie is nylon on the outside and thin and flat, it doesn't snag or wear out, yet it's easy to rip in line and sew on and sew on!

 Advantages of The Liner Over Memory Foam

Wearable

Not nearly as fat, I've lost a coat that weighs 35, you can wear it inside many more types out outfits..It's thin yet powerful so you can wear it with outfits like with blue jeans while not too tight or bulky

More wicking/Faster Drying

...It's cleaner

Better Insulation

Memory foam has great toasty insulation but the woovie has the best insulation I've seen in my entire life

Easier to sew by far

Memory foam (other than sew foam)is also much more flimsy

You don't have to Remove and Rewear it All Day, It MAINTAINS ITS OWN COMFORT

 

Buying Power

This may solve a real problem I'm sure a boucoup of indoorsy typers have had; how to find a base layer that wicks worth anything? You can go by "since of feel" paying as I did 100's or even more for comfort. I tried polyester, deep space aluminum like socks, silk,  on and on in my misery, yet when you realize the army is defending for your comfort, you may be enlightened with the arch of each orbiting sock soft, and smoother than with space trash!

The best value I found was just to buy a lower grade gently used liner for just like 20. First I bought the higher grade for about 40 and  I couldn't tell them apart so the cheaper liners are more for the value.. You can sew booties and a hat for the woovie shirt (see below for some good sewing tricks you may not know, for example like awl twine instead of thread, doesn't snag or break, real durable, and where to buy at good value). To sew the outfit use the same method as above for the Memory Foam coat, sew tubes for arms and sew to a liner vest, sew the legs to like a base layer of action wear pants, and don't forget you can use more than one woovie layer if you like much easier to get in and out of.  I found the curse of the demons of cold, tight and wet are solved by the arms sewn on the poncho and you can may the hood inside like your hat with more layers of the blanket liner if you like. In general it's best to keep the liner loose so it dries out, even so this isn't that needed!

Note that as above (ZORB/COAT) it's REAL comfy to boost the liner by drying it out by the fan, this boosts its super fast drying power even more! 

About Hydrophobic Powder

The best overall solution I've found yet to stay dry is the Zorb plus the PUL outside etc or perhaps with the blanket liner. Hydrophobic doesn't mean fear of fear itself, or hide from the rain inside.

I bought 30$ worth, and found it to be quite dusty, aerogels are often brittle and dusty and it's super hydrophobic, this is the word to keep in mind. This dust may not be your best option, this is just my first R and D  and you might want to look for a boost in your hydrophobic powder mode. 

There are three problems I can think of offhand with the aerogel dust. Silicosis is long term chronic inhalation of the silica. This might be solved (or or hopefully it might, or it may not, so you might want to consider other hydrophic powders, this page is for R and D only) by simply wearing breathing protection when applying the dust to your outfit. For the aluminum in the dust likewise if there might be some elevated risk of Altzheimer's I take nattokinase which reduces risk by 90% as in Japan where they've been using nattokinase from fermented soy for 1000 years. Junk food unfermented soy is the opposite of natto and causes harm. As for the iron in the dust this may not absorb much through the skin. The usual method your body uses to remove iron is through the skin. Mercola says iron has been linked to Alzheimer's so here too nattokinase may be of worth.

CONSIDERATIONS; AEROGEL AND CFS/OTHER ISSUES

There seem to be two reasons I tolerate nattokinase well even though low blood pressure is a problem with CFS and nattokinase lowers blood pressure and is a blood thinner. For the low BP I use Activive (Hello Life site) as I say elsewhere, this reduces the fatigue and brain fog etc by 97% and it raises low BP and completely reverses enzyme deficiency, almost heaven Ohio AZ! It was like night and day with Activive for me, so nattokinase is easy for me to tolerate is seems. Activive seems to completely solve MCSS (chem sensitivity)  and is advertised as safe and powerful for anyone with weariness (nurses report a 99% rate of reports of fatigue by patients). Second the risk of blood thinning with nattokinase may not be as much a problem with CFS since blood viscosity is higher.

Aerogel, General

So aerogel is a powder with more consideration. You may want to search for other hydrophobic methods. You might think hydrophobic means it only allows water to pass through the fabric, but the general meaning is just removing water. Aerogel might be of value if you accept the risk (even so the above paragraph is not a complete list of cautions and you use this site at your own risk) since it's quite sticky, get it on your hands and it's not easy to remove with water. Even so your hands will be quite dry, and this is one goal, since you can put it in your outfit without it falling through in a day or two.

For a while I was thinking of using the aero gel powder  for its super hydrophobic value, the dust here is the super powerful limit  of even my huge breath  when I breathe like a Toro and eat hotdish.

Good news is I found another hydrophobic method.  Pine rosin like many pine based products has had a history of safety unless youre a termite embedded in a 57 million year old bit of rosin, the world's oldest house! Well the termite is well saved at any old rate of speed!

Pine crunchies like many pine based products  are considered safe. We were with them most days in Evolution for millions of years  while not the same day in evolution for millions of years;  well close enough!

So for hydrophobic powder  if you want dry skin you might use a pine rosin powder. This is used by like golfers  or other athletes to add traction to their hands for good grip.  The grip means your skin is much dryer.  I can't completely guarantee this for safety and use it at your own risk but this might be of value to some for some use.



 Active Wear/How to Save 100s a year And Have All The Good Clothes You Like or Need

For my base layer and more outside spring and fall I use like "active wear" from Goodwill in the active not inactive wear section! These are like jogging outfits for heroes and supermoms who like to stay fit. You can get great hues and designs of worth and they layer real well since they're stretchy and are often larger size for movement. Each layer wicks like 4 layers of wicking underwear that would cost 40 times 4 or 160$ just for the upper layer. And unlike wicking underwear, these durable "coats" have zippers, wicking pockets, and often a wicking hood. The zipper has great value because you can take it on and off with the outside layers unlike 5 pairs of wicking underwear which like neoprene can be a huge claustrophobia fashionwear woe, and action wear is of worth for layering like outside, and my favorite about this is no stains. I tried darker colors with some light hues that show through like for rugs with good patterns and this won't show as much if I spill spot remover on it, and this worked better in general and I still use this trick, even so stains were a still a problem. You buy a goodlooking outfit, and eat and in just a week the outfit has a stain, often ruined, costing a dollar a day for an outfit you liked, I'm offline outside in the heat in the shade! At the least I had to wash once a day in the machine. Did you know? An electric dryer costs 1$ an hour to operate, a washer costs more. The active wear method is to use cheap active wear that's not so beautious I used just as an inner base layer. When I eat I use the base layer as a bib by unzipping the outside, saving hundreds a year, on these beautiful comfortable outfits..

Note that you can also use patches to easily sew on (see easy sewing tips below) as on this Ebay page for less than 1$ each, CLICK HERE or see link at end of post. I found that try as I might while zip shirts are much easier to jog on and off, so tough to zip a button shirt! They will stain as I often would forget to unzip while I would eat. Such exiting life! This may be like lifetime outfits since I was only with stain on the front, and once you buy the patches you can reuse them if your outfit is damaged, recycle VISA saves vis a vis. The darker hues and zip method above with the patches are the best yet. For like going to a restaurant you want to use a base layer like a T shirt so your stomach won't show. I tried a PVC bib and it was so hot and wet, I decided the T is more of worth. In winter the army poncho blanket liner (the Woovie, I mention below) it's camo so to eat, I just unzip the outer actionwear or coat and the woovie makes a real great bib to camouflage spills.) Even so around the house I actually will wear my stomach out somewhat when I eat and save a fortune on Actionwear and fat people aren't round, it causes fatburn! 

What I've done for summer is buy good looking actionwear shorts like nylon swim trunks they last well and clean best, and other good looking shirts without the front zipper, and only wear these outside. Inside I wear the zip t shirts because here is were I would spill them. I couldn't get any good looking common shirts without this method since they were always damaged by spills. So the around the house zip t shirts look moderately good enough, and the great looking outfits I wear only for more social events, without stains. After all the real reason good outfits exist is for social use, stained clothes at low cost would be fine, but you want to consider what other people think, and it builds confidence. Clothes may not make you who you are but they add a real boost of some worth.

You can find good color methods online for more cool looks you like most, this is more for your money spent on outfits.

Dawn dishwashing liquid in a spray jug 2/3 water to detergent is a great spot remover. It's biodegradeable, cheap, and a good scent and if you combine it with baking soda it removes spots better than most of the horrible chemical cleansers like ammonia or bleach. E.g. unlike bleach or other cleansers it's cheap and doesn't cause stains itself! It's a great way to remove dander and will even make you mosquito proof as I say on my link about cheap safer pest control Click here or see link at the end of the post.

Without memory foam, layering Active wear in the Spring and Fall allow layers that are just right for these other months, allows another easy option. Putting on or taking off sweaters or more underwear you can't remove with ease like these, and the hoods and pockets are toasty, I would often get cold hands and ears even in May and September, and this evens out the heat well for another valuable comfort option. 

I could never could wear sweaters for years because they're just too miserably wet and cold but if you use the dry layer method you can now just pull them on over the top and have sweaters for the good looks.

I used short sleeved zip shirts to save in summer by this Action wear method. Here's an Ebay link for front zip shirts that have more color for about 15 each, CLICK HERE WWW or See Link At End of Page. If you wear a medium order at least two sizes or more larger. I wear a men's medium, I ordered large but they were a bit tight so I had to cut the sleeves inside and add more fabric where it doesn't show, or I'll just buy more if I need more options. The fabric seems high value and the zipper seems real and hasn't jammed, this can be important when you buy for value. I'm quite satisfied; with the good zipper, the fabric is durable yet thin, the lines are sharp, and it's wicking with advanced high sci methods. I found that Blaire has zip short sleeved shirts but the reviews say they over heat, good for Air Conditioning perhaps. The plainer shirts I bought on Ebay look good enough and cost just 10 to 20, not as cheap but I'm hoping the stain methods above like patches will make them last years more.  I usually remove my shirt in the heat and save on AC when inside so you should see my pot roast! See below for more about summer if it's "weather control" so be it. It costs three times more to cool a degree than heat it, other than electric fans in the heat, you burn heat to be cool, right! As it should be.

The Future

Even so this isn't the best I can imagine. While it's not with the sharp fall of heat if you go outside, it's not extremely toasty and warm as you imagine.

New technology is being built, build a coat and they will make you rich!

Aerogel

As I say above, aerogel shows promise, the dust brittleness and weight are major issues rendering it unviable for coats perse. One option seems to be aeroclad, a rather expensive form of dustproof aerogel. Even so it may be heavy and inflexible, this I don't know.

There's a Kickstarter site for an aerogel coat but it costs like 250. You may be able to get these from this like on Ebay in awhile at lower cost. 

  You're getting the absolute best methods I found after almost30 years of practice.  I hope the PUL and Zorb are a special treasure you like a lot.

Aerogel seemed to have zonked out  because in spite of the hype it has no more insulation value in reviews I see online then a high end coat for hundreds of dollars. I tried to cheap my way to Vannas RVvanna and buy Toasty seat aerogel infused polyester sports cushions like for stadium seats on Amazon. The reviews were quite good for the great outdoors where the dust just blows away but in your coat it just gets  when you can't breathe all night in 2 months or days!  I would hardly doubt this is why we havent heard heard much from the Fibregel site because of this dust.  Most Venture Capital businesses fail. They get my business sympathy.. It would seem to have solved the aerogel  weight  problem  since coats  in reviews like the Oros aerogel coat  they are said to be clunky  in weight  unusual for the lightest solid. And a high price and they're no more insulating than a usual coat of lower price.  Believe it or not  this is what the actual reviews say.  And after all this is the real world we're all around us all kinds of things are failing  and lots of sciences or most sciences will fail  and this doesn't seem so surprising about aerogel either when you look at the general events.  Maybe we'll all win a free Cruise to the Coast of Egyptorica  and be with Barker's beauties!

 

Fibregel

Another great option might be fibregel, a hybrid aerogel coat being made by a London startup. Fibregel may have many advantages, if the fibregel site is to be believed. Just 80 to 120 dollars, far cheaper than a aerogel coat, and it just weighs nine ounces. But the real awesome value is it's 20 times warmer than down because it's super super wicking. The Fibregel site (note the brit spelling, a search of mere fibergel won't find the site, they spell tire like Tyre sometimes the capitol of phonecia in the ancient world of Vanna!) They say you'd be bone dry in a torrential downpour and warm and cozy.

Even so the fibregel site has yet to deliver on a saleable coat yet even while the've been building it up for 2 years. Presumably this is about business or technological issues about how the coats are made. I found that aerogel is fickle stuff, and they may have also.

Nanorod Coats

Nanrods are super small fibers with a small round area where "the wavelength of evaporation" is just right to convert the moisture being wicked from the other side to "steam" that evaporates out and pumps out more from the tube in a sort of steam powered loop, a sort of molecular steam engine that never stops ⛽ if steam is in your outfit! The steam goes out while the other side gets much drier. Since as I say wet skin feels like 20 times cooler, even without insulation this may be of real worth as a coat.

I haven't found much about any real stuff made of this online, even so, it remains an absolute possibility!

One possibility is it not only might it be used to pump out the steam, but a heating version of this might be used that has a similar sort of electromagnetic bubble at one end and the tube to pump the heat into your coat from out of the air, and this to me seems to be an absolutely cool coat because you could reverse it in the winter as in the summer and with the steam pump if you keep you both dry and warm and winter and just reverse it around and it's cool and moist in summer is no power input needed or anything and it would be cheap and lightweight as much as a fibergel coat. Another possible improvement I can think of might be to use the known frequency of the air where heat is transparent (this has been established for like self-cooling beer cans) so it doesn't insulate on the side where you want to put the heat but on the other side or outside use other frequencies that act as insulators and this then much multiplys the power of the heat pump or the cool pump. It might even be better than the dry layer method of my site. This use of the steam combined with the heat pump and using the right heat frequency might be an improvement over the steam pump alone.  I think the coat without this additional addition has been invented,  I heard about the reversible coat in the '80s on the radio and I've been upside down about this all the months ago since! 

"Why Have I Gone To All This Trouble For Me and You?" 

It's easier to use the results of my R and D than to be in pain! These methods are simple, just the Zorb and PUL and the dry layer in your coat, oven mitts for toasty hands outdoors, hat with a good liner for outdoors, durable waterproof shoes like Puma tennis shoes for 20 on Ebay, smartwool socks and Smartwool socks with the woovie booties. I use the socks and booties with the waterproofing Amazon bags on the coldest days indoors, the liners and smartwool socks all the time it's winter, and  windproofing and waterproofing as needed outside. 

That's 100% of my method, it's cheap, durable and simple. Ignore the rest of this site except for like AC in summer see below, or how to save money with actionwear, and so on. Some of these ideas like neoprene are what I went through so I could find these solutions. The solutions of most worth are in the above.

It's been found that pain shrinks your brain, and I think of winter as "insidious and cumulative".  In the "cumulative" sense it builds up and around late February or early March a lot of people "find someone to blame" and be impolite with (somewhat at any rate).. Mostly you can bypass this if you use the liner and PUL, to me this is more like being wealthy. By insidious, this means that it causes harm in unknown and unhealthy ways, as in that research finds that babys born in May have a higher risk of illness than other months after the mother has been pregnant in the winter months. ( a heated pregnancy cushion for mom and her baby "thanks mommy!") 

  

 And being inside even while saving heat in comfort as it is is also much improved year round by this method, and it's been found that being outdoors is good for brain health, and to say hi to the sweet lady up the road in pleasure more real. I have it better than most of my neighbors about winter this year, since I'm getting exercise, and if it's a snow storm, they have to wait a week to dig out, and more if two storms in a month and I'm not even slowed down. And while I'm out I get to talk with my neighbors. You make your enemies, you make your friends, but god creates your neighbors.

 It would be nice to be rich, right? Where you read about how good times are returning, and you realize they've never even left!

Research has shown that those who live with adverse weather like agricultural workers have been shown to have more risk of harm to behavioral health. 

 Nylon, EVA, and neoprene either have no value for windproofing, nylon isn't windproof or waterproof nor EVA or are too heavy like neoprene for most use I found other than colder days for neoprene even with some more weight for the value. (As I say above fibergel coats may be a major boost in a year or more perhaps.) For a calm 35 degree day outside the Zorb plus PUL method may be fine. And with the blanket liner, you're comfortable inside, and even so you reclaim a 6 month area on both sides of like 40 or 35 degrees of comfort in the rain and wind without even silicone. And if it's it's neither cumulative or insidious, this seems more like the wealthy for now at any rate about this, or almost as good. So while it's a bit more labor to use the liner when I go out in the cold weather for 21 days at the most, I would have to solve it by necessity, and since this just tends to be so in January and February, what is what wets my whistle, what whistle is dry in rain in the rain forest where I live in March! If like where I live winter is held over another month in March this month or like 2 years ago when we had a week of 70's then 80 days of rain, while the snow isn't so comfortable if my face is a bit cold, it would be anyhow, and that 80 days is without all the pain, like 95 to 100% cancelled by the use of the Zorb , it's great for snow around your face, it seems to burn it or melt it away from your face..

 About the coats, I saw on the web on this cool inventions site about using a backpack with a hood sewn in to always find your hat, this won't work with a large warm coat since the hat is either far back on the box you can't reach or too far in and tough also to wedge out of the clamp between you and the box. This might work for a light coat but not a warm comfortable coat I wear much more often here on the era of global coziness in Sept.  So I've tended to just tie a shoelace line between my hat and my one strap back pack that easily either loops with a wide two inch band over the side or front (these one strap packs are neat and look cool, I've gotten good compliments, you might find them on Ebay, much easier to get in and out than the two band ones). When not in use the hat stores in the box and then it's real easy to always find the hat. First I just put on the coat, then the hat and the box is where I keep my money also stored with a line from the pack to a plastic jug with connection to the bottle making problems like theft or loss much reduced. And I can always find my money and my house wherever it rests since I've also tied the keys to the money bottle with a metal band, two wampire bites and the round ring goes through both the jug and the keys on the other side, the line at the jug side also ties to the bottle which has a screw on top so the lid is always in reach. I've had cab drivers say what a neat method of storing and finding my cash this is. If there's a pickpocket in the crowd after you get your cash like from the boss that day, they're in for an unpleasant embarrassment, if you even drop the jug, the sound of coins jangling inside will alert you. You won't lose your money as often and the jug is higher above the ground so you won't drop it in most use. I've also extended this idea to my credit cards by using a relatively narrow band of duct tape on both sides with the line tried through to the box I always wear to the store. Each credit card goes to it's special pocket in my box.  This use of the hat and box is of worth for three reasons, you can use it with different coats, you can wash the coat unlike if the neoprene is sewn to the coat, since it will damage the neoprene some way in the washer, am I superstitious, I'm not sure! And most important you can get in the coat with the Zorb and the hat with some yoga saved yet if you add the hat by the two strap box it's enough extra foam it becomes like four times tougher to get in the coat.. 

 

 If you use like a hot water bottle you may realize it warms your heart and so your entire body and has risk of burns. 

    

    I tried a travel electric blanket and a rechargeable battery but the plug wouldn't match, another 50 or more in R and D gone, I've been searching for years to find the dry layer method. I tried making my own sleeping bag poncho this was heavy and wet in just an hour or two, tough to get in and out of, and no way to wear it outside.  PUL as a dry layer is much warmer with much reduced bulk and weight.

I considered electric coats powered like the Milwaukee coat by a power tool battery, these are at least 200$ with no guarantee they wouldn't crash in a year or two, 100 a year. And the heat area is small, and there is no heat in the sleeves (you might consider buying the jacket and sewing on PUL sleeves as above.).

I looked on the Instructables site about how to make my own electric coat for just 40$ but this turned out to be nearer to 100$ and the instructions were in electrical engineering language, if it failed to be viable, another 100$,  and like the vest and other electric disclaimers, it seemed to be unwearable in the rain even if it it was beyond the engineering phase. And it would seem to be easy to tear up if the wire was loose.

Electric hot socks are neither much electric or hot, just socks!  a wire and clunky C batteries you have to replace in 2 hours, and no thermostat, you are the heat!

So too electric mufflers have reviews on no heat, and electric water bottles likewise, even if they spill out the water or whatever it is they use to fill them.

You might like looks for spring and fall weather and the coveralls for winter. Aerogel or perhaps some other hydrophobic powder seems to make whatever heat level you use more comfortable. Coveralls might be better for deep winter but not as good for looks since coveralls aren't much for looks. 

 The problem with winter perspiration isn't so much moisture it's warmth. In the heat of August it's not so miserable. Lack of heat is more the cause than moisture. PROOF; if you want to just get your feet wet with heat, you could try neoprene socks, with a smartwool base layer for about 20$ by the method I say about below for shoes. As on the reviews like Amazon, they are thrilled at the power of neoprene.  Smartwool has small tubes of the wool yarn that are hydrophobic in that they let water pass through, yet are also vaporphilic keeping vapor inside the tube which is like a sort of super steam, evening out the heat so no cool or hot spots yet dry also. I don't recommend common wool, it's like a wet soggy fish, smartwool is much better, you can get cheaper smartwool new on Ebay, Once you see you can have complete comfort by this method (plus using no cost Amazon bags or you can buy a 50ft roll of like 2mil. plastic sheet at stores like Lowe's for just 15$  and cut your own waterproof socks and bind them with either tape like transparent packing tape or paper or other tape. Not duct tape it's poison when wet...All this for a waterproof sock liner at 100th the cost of waterproof socks ****and unlike PUL common waterproof socks they don't overheat like in summer after a storm in the heat****to stop neoprene odor completely (your landlady loves me and will not evict you or me by being real and I adore her real door.)) you can then simply reuse this method for the coat and hat which takes a bit more labor sewing by the easy method  here I discuss of using waxed more heavy thread, so no snags, completely ease of threading, and real cheap.

While smartwool is much better than wool and isn't flimsy like many wicking socks and more comfortable too, they aren't completely so much dry as  comfortable and still have odor. So my all time favorite are "No Stink" Smartwools. They are like twice as dry or more and this may be how the odor is completely stopped and my feet feel the r and Devine has arrived..

Note that while some web editor has put in some of the headlines of the search that this site is about saving money on clothes, I've spent 1000s on the research finds and while the methods I've arrived at here are cheap and effective, this site is more about comfort and how to stay warm or cool if cold or hot. I had to find comfort first then build outside, when you have comfort then you can build from the inside out, Right! Cheap clothes are easy to find, comfort year round will make you look much the same as anyone, but you'll feel good inside more often year round. 

. 

 Note that by the waxed twine, it's super cheap, fast and easy, simple, and stronger than thread to sew but cheaper than sewing in punched holes with shoe laces, and old method I used, no flipping houses, who lives in a flip flop an old lady who lives in a sock?

SEWING WITHOUT THREADING, SNAGS, and AT HIGH SPEED

While all the neoprene I ever bought was no luxury sized stuff, sewing with waxed thread is an easy cheap method to simply cut the neoprene or insulation to fit, and you have more than awl in the cosmos! Yes! U can have awl and a cheeze sandwich spelled with zzz so solve bad sleep caused by cheese!! 

Since the stitches on the inside of the outer insulation of the coat won't show and it won't tear as much as if you have a machine and sew on and sew on.... I recommend awl type waxed thread about the width of smaller than a dime for hand sewing, with a medium large needle you can get at the discount store (the eye is somewhat larger than the twine, a durable needle may need pliers to pull through tough fabrics, who else can sew with pliers, right, Mamma V and the Hug Station!) Waxed thread like on this Amazon page doesn't snag, is easy to tie, much more durable and won't break and easy to thread than usual "flimsy" sewing thread by far. I got two patented German "Witch" needle threaders, both of no value in a few days. I couldn't operate the awl I bought, rocket science has more diagrams. (A better value I found was as on this Ebay Page. Or see link at end of post.) The twine as on the link really does thread and not snag well, other types of  "waxed twine 1mm" polyester had been more difficult while not impossible to thread. You may want to buy 3 or more spools, some US some imported, it's two or three weeks to receive the thread otherwise and this is how much it took me to sew a lot of nifty cushions, rugs, zippers, around the house. It's AWL purpose or more! 

 I was having problems with my needles breaking, so I tried a wider needle seems like 1 1/2 or even 2 mm wide and the needle may not ever break, surprise, moving it through the outfit is almost the same as with a smaller needle.

  One good thing is while the loops are real strong, you can edit your sewing by just using a stitch like a chain stitch. ( STITCHING; Actually I use the needle on alternation of above and below the fabric or neoprene like a swimmer on the surface of the water with two or three or more dives at a time for speed, smaller regular line outside of you are sewing the outside of your outfit for looks, and a longer loop inside for looks alternating small outside with long inside zone of the loop then pulling them all through alternating with a second "lock stitch" or chain stitch, down then up on the same side, then wrap the twine around the needle two or three times then pull through and repeat with the swim. 

Here's the Drawing Drawn with the Line;



For the combination of speed and secure hold I alternate the swim with the cinch at regular intervals. In a way this is superior to a sewing machine also because you don't go from beginning to end of the stitch. You stop periodically for the cinch for more security. Of course you could just sew over and over like three times with the machine. I don't the room or time or money for a sewing machine now and am saving money, and you can use this type of trick also on many types of upholstery and like duffels you couldn't reach even with a machine. So if you like machines, step one celebrate the cheese sandwich a much as you like!!

For reduction of loose ties, loop backwards in direction as far as you like, I just use an inch of denser loops to save twine, then forward and tie as you return past where I started with a tie of the end of the other line as you pass by. The twine is thick, so you don't need to sew more than one end knot to make it not pull through. You can sew a foot a minute and it has about 20 uses around the house, like the edges of rugs, sleeping bags, making my own special sham bedwear, and it's a cheap simple way to get around gyps like too small or shrinkage of smartwool with use. Awesome! Bees may sting the month of May!)

For securing the stitch as I sew, I first check by wearing the outfit, then just use powerful like white 1 1/2 inch clothespins from the discount store instead of like cushion pins, which are tough to keep track of and can cause aches and I'm not in R&D about pain.

 I use the poly for emergency use and don't use it as much as the easier twine as on the Amazon link. But for just going some loops with a knot and then a simple tie off or for emergency sewing of this type the poly twine at like 160 meters for the same cost as just 25 of the nylon for fast and easier use I have on hand.  You can get much more twine like 3 or four times as much in the roll like on Ebay. You may want to experiment and see what works best for you. 

Always be sure to buy your outfits and build from inside to out for good room to move..Be sure to leave room to move (when you buy the coat leave 3 radial inches out as well as the sleeve between coat and you). A good way to get a size thats right is to put on something like a coat  "or two" so when you sew it after you find the size around the coat you're in the medium range not overstuffed or tight.

How To  Sew Your Memory Foam Fast.

As I say memory sew foam is best because it's not  flimsy or floppy or bunchy.  Even so because the backing is not completely securely attached to the foam  it would tear a bit if you didn't sew it with a bit of tape to secure it.  I use a bit like 2 inch paper tape.  Paper tape is cheap and unlike duct tape it's not poisonous when wet.  Even so it's dry as with the foam  and I'm never too sure.  The more advanced or  reason is about the ease with which you can sew the paper tape as opposed to duct tape which is really sticky on your thread and snags up.  The paper tape is thick enough  to bind the foam reasonably well yet thin enough to sew well also.

 Begin by finding the edge you want to sew on both sides of your sew foam. I Use like two pieces of 2 inch tape  and seal each edge along the line with the line of tape.

 Next bring the two sealed taped edges together  at an angle like a 45° angle  or even parallel with both sew foam sheets flat if you like (this is easier to sew but it may be a bit more pinched when finished).

To sew it fast  I go through one taped edge of the  sheet with  the needle then  through the other, pull up and then wrap the durable awl twine around  the tip of the needle like three times.  Then simply pull the needle through to lock the stitch..And repeat this pull~ lock~stitch method one or even two inches away on the edge of the sheet. By using a generous stitch you 

 speed up how fast you can bind the foam for your outfit liner.  (I think this might be one of those jobs you can't achieve with a common household sewing machine.  So this method might be useful in general for some types of sewing also other than with the foam.)

How To Stay REAL Dry And COZY On Winter Nights and Save Months or Years of Your Life Making Your Bed!

 Remember going out in the wild when you were in the scouts, it's freezing outside that night, yet you were in your cozy sleeping bag,were you even once cold or wet? How is this so, I don't know, it may be because you weren't moving around all night in the sleeping bag, so it's super wicking power really works, the daytime needs other methods as on this site. 

Here's a simple method to stay at 98.6 (much more comfy than an electric pig in blanket it's so cozy or cold outside!);

I use one heavy duty sleeping bag on top of a medium one, don't get the slick sleeping bag, you want a bit more traction so they stay put and your snores won't shake them around.

To use two bags (much better than one I didn't know this for years, I'm awake this month like March you know it when your time machine starts it starts.);

Get clips and clip the far side of first the heavy then the light bag above to the far side of the mattress or sheet (may tear more but clips easier). Clip the top and bottom of the sleeping bags (or blankets for a heat wave in the AC!) on the side away from where you will make the bed, clip only on the far side high and low. To make the bed all you have to do is pull the sleeping bag over the bed from the near side where you are.. It's ready and will fit well in just a bit.

The sheet is held down by corner sheet clips, I made my own at low cost by just sewing or clipping shoe laces to duct tape and tying it tight so it doesn't tear. 

I don't use electric blankets because they overheat and they use cheap wires that can burn the house down, certainly not for use with sleeping bags either. They can catch fire too.

This is a great way to save your heat. If you lose your sleeping bag as you sleep, just grab it and it automatically returns you to where you were e.g. if you go to the bathroom. 

And it also has value to cool you down if you over heat, if your feet are hot in the evening before AM just move the top bag away from your feet more your way so you modulate.

The other advantage is you don't have to spend months or years making your bed in the winter, just when it's most foam! You want to get a good looking sleeping bag so your room looks good and mine is a shade of  blue.

For warm feet in the morning, I sewed a towel around the edges inside below the base bag this forms a cozy pouch for my feet, and this really works for cold feet in the AM or at night on cold nights. To modulate/cool feet I just move them out of the pouch like in the evening, then in later on as needed.

 Not only does this solve cold feet in the AM, it also solves having to sometimes wear a warm hat when it's like 20 outside. Your feet don't stick out so you reach just the right distance to fit your head between the edge of the sleeping bag and the pillow on the other side, your head radiates into the edge of the sleeping bag and since the sleeping bag is in the same place by the two clips on the side it's also stabilized enough to be just right to fit your head between the pillow and sleeping bag, and this also allows the most breath, your breath heats your head also but the oxygen is in easy reach. 

 For warm socks in the morning, I store them in the towel pouch. Actually this was a bit lumpy and my smartwool socks were often always wet on the shelf in the morning, if you have wet socks even as good as smartwool is, smartwool is good socks! I highly recommend putting them over the top and edge of a book like an encyclopedia, this dries socks real well.

AN IMPROVED METHOD FOR SLEEPING TOASTY AND DRY.

 While the above method was great for its time and much better than zonks I'd had before, the waitresses and methods I have here in my own events are often best.  

 While sleeping bags do quite well if you can't find microfiber blankets these are better even than sleeping bags for comfort! These wrap around you sort of like a weighted blanket which is good for behavioral health and I you so much yawn! A weighted blanket, right, mass get in bed and stays on with math! 

  By a whim I bought two thick microfiber blankets for about $20 from our local thrift shop and first of all they don't even overheat in the heat in spring and fall if you use just one and also, they're the warmest by far to sleep in, even better than the sleeping bag even with the thermostat so low that I can't even count I was so warm and toasty..

  As I say above I sewed a wide pouch for my feet so they didn't stick out under the sleeping bag. Instead, you can just buy a microfiber blanket that's larger than your bed so it's got maybe a couple of feet of extra blanket. The second blanket would have usual size for bed so when you go to sleep at night your feet aren't too hot because you simply stick your feet more easily out from under the blanket on the inside and then as you get cool at night it's much easier to flip the blanket right over your feet and it totally works. This also totally keeps your head warm and cheaper sleeping bags I used aren't as good as this because they don't wrap around you as well.

I still use the method of clipping these blankets on one side and also I've sewn a bit of ael twine to bind the two blankets together to stop the slide away to oblivion (relax, not us, the blankets) while you sleep at night because otherwise they're only bound on the edge.

How To Counteract Itching

To counteract itching (this can be a major problem especially with CFS) since it can become severe, is of course to wash frequently (with CFS this is achievable with a spray water bottle, a usual bath may be hazardous and stressful or even fatal for PWC's) as in with baking soda under the arms. To wash my hair without damaging it or my skin I originally tried such as oatmeal which some recommend as a dry shampoo  and it was totally worthless, etc. etc. Finally after years I converted to dishwashing detergent with only one ingredient anionic surfactants (yes that's one!) combined with baking soda. This much ups the suds of soaps and is great for removing like the dander from upholstery. 

About skin itching 97% of those with eczema have staph, and 4/5ths of staph starts in the nose. After years I found that Turmeric /Cayenne combined with ginger  Olive Leaf, OL are great for sinusitis and they are strong strong antibacterials; 

Olive Leaf is considered almost a wonder herb with a long list of health advantages and the only known disadvantage might be that it lowers blood sugar at high doses and for long duration. Cayenne is, Cayenne! and it cuts through mucus like sinusitis in just a minute or two, and seems to give long term or permanent improvements. Like OL it's wound healing or vulnerary, and OL makes a permanent structure germs can't function inside. This is a super powerful way to combat staph. Experts say that antibiotics used by doctors are easier for germs to get resistance to, yet there were no supergerms in nature much, This is because of natural antibiotics, herbs and methods like drying found in evolution have 1,000s of natural compounds germs can't overpower not just a few because of complex combinations. So while I'm unsure it seems this combination of Cayenne ginger and Olive Leaf, which is also used for wound healing may give permanent relief from eczema. 

 

(SAFETY NOTE; I use turmeric with the other herbs only externally and only at the lowest possible dose like for toothache relief. Turmeric extract has been outlawed in Europe and can cause nerve problems so with the small dose of turmeric I actually use I also take it with a strongly neuroprotective and nerve building herb called withiana also at low level because withiana also causes sleep with more of it. Withiana, called an adaptogenic like ginseng is indeed called Indian ginseng. The definition of an adaptogenic is an herb or method that helps the body in many positive ways or more without causing harm so low doses of withiana are generally considered safe. And withiana is indeed considered to be smoother to adapt to than ginseng like Korean or eleuthro ginseng. If you opt as I have to use turmeric for its wondrous skin healing value at low dose and infrequently with also the withiana I make no guarantees that it will work well for you and remember that you use these and all methods of my site, at your own risk.)

 For gingivitis it's superpowerful, but limited so I use the special straw separation method with the herbs in a combination of chemical and mechanical defense as I say WWWWW HEREWWWWW

or see link at end of post.. This often seems true, mechanical machines like the cyber chip that uses small levers to store computations are much faster cooler, shockproof, cheaper and so on than electric methods alone. 

If you don't have a hundred dollars right away to buy 10 pairs of smartwool socks and want to cleanse out foot odor well, as well as the inside of your outfits! I use Dawn dishwashing liquid with baking soda, the best I've ever seen for dander other than lemon juice and baking soda, for linoleum water stains these turn out to be dander. Clorox is with huge fumes and scrubbing compared to this. Long term use of lemon juice and baking soda like for personal use is not recommended since it may be carcinogenic; some sites say it's good others bad for cancer, this is why I use Dawn and baking soda for personal comfort, has a great scent, is real cheap. To really reduce foot odor, before the odorproof smartwools age I would apply the Dawn and baking soda to the inside out of my socks or other outfits (may work well for tennis shoes or outfits that are not easy to cleanse otherwise, e.g. liners). Use of Dawn and baking soda seems to make my socks and other actionwear self cleaning in a way. The dander is greatly removed; if the sock has moisture with use after the sock treated is dry, this reactivates the cleaning power of the soap or herbs which is stronger with the baking soda to chew up more dander, with repeated use like for two weeks. This may be much cheaper than cedar foot odor inserts, read on for more about this below..

About itching in addition to washing, I rotate both my socks and my shirts each evening and morning.

This is by like 10 pairs of base layer socks as many as you want or have and each evening you can take off the soxs and change them.

Of course can wash them and also to save on costs and time washing I put the pair that I've just used on the edge of my shelf and I do them in order left or right over to newer this way you can go through like 10 pairs instead of having to wash them all one by one by the recycling method, they haven't disappeared out of this universe into another cosmos and mass really is conserved, what did Einstein know!

 This also works for shirts and pants you put your outfit on coat hangers Left to right old to new and then when you're through you just restart after you've washed them at that point.

 Another trick I use in combination is to take coat hangers what else and duct tape them together to make a spacer that I put in the back of my shirt and I'm always smooth and without rimples when I'm finished!

 As I say duct tape is poisonous when wet, so you may want to only use a thin line of the tape.

As I say below in the summer when your feet are too hot it's quite cool to get you a pair of waterproof boots and put water in them and walk around in them. This is great to keep your feet from overheating after you go out in the heat where the heat just radiates right into your foot and this is tougher to counteract outdoors.

Like winter cold without the dry layer method I think of foot discomfort after you go out walking in the heat seems to be cumulative (when you actually go out in the sun you don't get tan then you tan in the shade later in the evening and green tea which is brown! counteracts this and tans from the inside out as a cool sunshield and it's also good for your heart health reduces high blood pressure relaxes your heart in 10 minutes, reduces the risk of heart attack by half, makes it so you absorb up to 40% less carbohydrates like sugar and it also is good for emotional health and it's good for cheer and is anti-cancer), walking  won't hurt as much in like June but after about like August it starts to really kind of hurt more and you notice it if you're saving on air conditioning which is the most expensive time for air conditioner heat in August. This costs more than heat in the deep winter.

 Wearing boots filled with water cool feet way down real fast and well when you're inside, and this also turns out to be really good for winter feet itching. I had some residual left over feet itch most if not more and just wearing the boots with water in them totally stopped the itching the first time and if you do it all the time all summer I don't know yet but it may really totally solve eczema on your feet in the winter certainly it's a STEP BY STEP value. A cool foot bath goes where you want to go. You can walk around the room and like a foot soak and not even slow down. This reduction of the discomfort of the heat on your feet has good therapeutic value.

As I say above two patches of 1/2"memory foam makes a good pocket liner both for warmth and dryness and your oven mitten won't wear out so you don't buy out more of them but it's also antibacterial, so each time you put your hand up to your face as most people do on a regular basis, as seen on videos believe it or not, you're not spreading the germs to your nose so you may never get eczema.

 I see these videos where it seems like a feline is rescuing someone from being bit by a dog, yet how could the cat do a selfie if asleep!

Note that because the memory foam is strongly antibacterial it will also keep you smelling fresh while you're wearing heavy clothes in the winter even after exercise. It makes a much better shelf liner like for your socks box than cedar which I found didn't work well compared to this and it's much cheaper or useful to dry and clean other stuff like outfits.

Even as good as herbs like turmeric are for eczema which has been used for centuries in India with aryuvedic medicine, as in computer science there is evidence that sooner or later any computer can solve any problem if given long enough so sooner or later the staff might overpower these herbs.

ABOUT GORE TEX AND WIKERS

Seeming like a de ja VISA just minus the ja and with more VISA, some insulation like Gore Tex coats are 200 or 300 dollars. But you can get a sheet like 2 x 3 yards on Ebay and make your own liner for just 30 more. We hear how wonderous the Big GT is; a water drop on the outside is 10,000 times larger than the pore, on the inside the vapor is 1000 times more able to pass out, so like smart wool it loves steam, and fears water, so the huge biz of GT has been about this idea even if not perfect. I say not perfect since there are sites that say it only sheds water a few go rounds and then no more. I'll let you know if this has value. Sounds of worth for a base layer, but it may be a high end gyp, with 30 what a cosmos is boom sh boom!

And here's my retort report; TIME MACHINE Saves on the rent! While you can buy used GT on Ebay for like 20$, I've opted out of Goretex because it needs recharging by either often washing it or spraying a coat of who knows what chemical. I couldn't keep track of when I used it or not, I had to make my own vest, and I didn't seem to notice any improvement unlike actionwear for the base and memory foam. To me Goretex seems rather to be a gimmick and I just want reliable relief, not who knows how it's so amazing it just zoomed by.

 

 For another alternative e.g. in summer AC (it's a thermally different type of cold) you can use a rug sewn in the back af a good looking jacket as a heat shield, see below.  

CFS/COLD FEET

How To Stop The Agony of deFeet

I use oven mitts for gloves fast in and out, they also make good portable pocket warmers. Guaranteed to be warm by law not just of physics and business also when you reflect on this perhaps. Polyester is more durable than cotton at about the same cost. Or for warm hands indoors two sets of potholders in each coat and pants pockets near skin it reradiates in for fast heat at no cost for your hands indoors you can keep your hands warm enough before they radiate out for doing stuff like cleaning house in winter. Two potholders allow one to be cool sometimes, then just use the other on standby. For 1 dollar cotton  Potholders on the Dollar Tree site, Click or See Link At End of Page. I've yet to find a good value on polyester mitts, they seem too high in cost, so I just buy these and they only wear out in a year or so, so the pack they sell might stay cozy 10 years, this might be the best value if you don't use heavy lifting of lightships, own your own MRI with an 800#!..

For really cold feet indoors at any rate you can buy boot blankets to fit over the outside of your shoe. Patented Arctic Shields are not huge bulky boot blankets so you can walk well inside, while not for walking outside in a heat wave they're an option I've used well.

 As I say on my other post for detoxing, clay is a natural cheap method of cleansing out about every heavy metal there is. Click here or see link at end of post for The Wonders of Clay. See also cautions.

How To Pay Just 2$ a Month or so for Toasty Warm Feet In Winter

In summer you might consider buying lifetime sandals, I already have a lifetime, I saw good sandals for 12 each at the discount store so I'm set for life.

Experts say warm feet aren't just a luxury, they're essential to good health. 

Winter was much more a challenge, you may read sites that ask if using duct tape on the bottom of your shoe will save the sole, Why, Coitenly not! It will track in harmful heavy metals on your rug and walkways Wanderers from us any kind of talk center for most or while clay is wonderous for almost any type of toxin to cleanse out from inside as has been for life for millions of years with clay it's not perfect. The heel almost always wears out the most. Duct tape is worthless here..

My best solution for warm feet turned out to be smartwools with the dry layer method! (See above for how). And waterproof insulated cheap lightweight durable Puma shoes. No heavy boots needed. Order one shoe size up for each layer of socks like three or  more.  I wear a 10 and a half so I got a size 14 shoe. No problem with a floppy or heavy shoe, clowns have cold feet!

I got my first pair for just 25 or so on Ebay grey and blue not bad or good looks so I bought another pair for like 70.  The extra is essentially about looks but you could buy just one cheap pair for in and another for the outings.

My father would say if you didn't have to pay for heat and food clothes and rent anybody could be rich. Welcome to Malibu and a cheap outfit and heat cost.

For my base layer as I say above I highly recommend smartwool socks, just 10$ a pair for lifetime socks.

SUMMER PERSPIRATION

I was reading back in the old days how they stayed cool in the summer and they said keep your cool and just think cool nothing works! 

All the following methods could have been used by them if they were just had the internet see how useful it is!

The following tricks can make you completely air conditioning independent for all the rest of your life I assure you and reasonable comfort and smugness...

You can save about $300 a year doing this where I live and that may not seem like much but you can actually reinvest it in precious metals perhaps and keep them in your house and in 10 years you might have $50,000 if you play your cards right and with favorable markets etc. the way some of them are appreciating. 

Even so keep in mind this is not to be thought of as financial advice, you use this site at your own risk..

In summer sweating is no problem, it helps you stay cool, right! Even so, if you have an air conditioned boss who has steam and fire out of his breath for the Fire Sale, just sew in your indoor outfit..

INDOORS

It's been said that one good appointment can ruin otherwise fun afternoon. A good trick I've used to stay warm in AC used by some in summer  is to wear a thin good looking jacket with a rug sewn inside the shoulders with shoe laces and a few holes punched with duct tape to stop rug frazzles, (I later found that sewing with awl twine is better for this as I say in my sewing description above) it reradiates your body heat back in and it really works. A sort of heat shield. Great for appointments, just store in box and use as prescribed by the sweet dental 18 with her dish of sugar candy in the lounge, while you read to find out about golf on worlds of advanced civilizations!

An AC bubble costs 3 times as much per degree as heat, and using it just at night as I do is comfortable all afternoon FM. To save more you might try a programmable thermostat to cut it off while it's cooler as you sleep. Personally I don't need it since I'm comfortable all day without AC by using the unlined poly or nylon outfit to save moisture (The hotter you get the cooler you get because it's thin enough to radiate heat out but it also holds the moisture in so you want the poly shirt [a light jacket is best] that's tightly woven and nearer your skin so the area of water contacts you the most for the value) and I stay cool all day, as well as the other methods I list below for DEEP relief in the heat. When you have enough general comfort in the day you may find in delight you don't need Air Conditioning relief at night, it's cool at night in the shade! 

I found that an ice pack pillow cushion made of cool pops plus taking a sheet and simply spraying water over the top of it works wondrously it lasts for like 3 hours of real comfort in the pm heat especially with the ice pack for your head and it's better than air conditioning because it gives you moisture and then it dries in like 3 hours so it's not wet in the morning or anything.

If you wake up for 4 hours later even as satisfying as the wet sheet is while dry simply recharge the sheet and go on with your comfortable luxury hours more inside the miserable heatwave outside!

Just recharge the sheet and go back to driving pigs to market or counting your cash if you are out of fat!

Some people say they should just set the alarm and sleep all the way through from June and October... Even with the air conditioning I can live a life of comfort in the heat! Right ah what luxury!

 Even better is cooling spray on the sheet and turning on the fan.  

What about a water cool dog house with water in the walls or a dog fountain to cool the dog? They have a hoop the dog jumps through and that washes the dog, but with raining felines and mongols since the dog water fountain some have invented powered by paw pad perhaps may be unsafe because the garden hose you hook it up to is poison and I don't know if they thought of this (the dog would and he'd let us know fast with no woof aloof!) I think the water cooled side of the dog house might be the best plus a dog blanket that you spray water on and it automatically sprays and loads down the blanket on the dog in the house and puts out the fire and the dog is going ah at 100 woofs per hour!

My entire cost is for the refrigerator to cool the ice as I say below, and the fan for an hour or so before bed.

 We lived in the tropics for millions of years before fire and the immune system has a boost by alternating warm and cool like going in and out of the waves all day. 3/4 of the life and people then as now lived by some type of shore. An artificial AC bubble is polluting with indoor pollution which may be a real concern with CFS via MCS (Multiple Chemical) since indoor pollution is considered far more hazardous than outdoor pollution. Some have devised a thermostat that cools and heats all day in loops for like good immune health as has been proven. Or a blanket that heats and cools you all night. With AC in youth, I always was miserable if all month it was the luxury of the freeze and this has been proven to change ability of heat regulation when you are old and wiser. You may see the fans at the cashiers in stores in the summer heat used in addition to the AC. This they may find more comfortable by far because of the oscillation of the fan I'd say.



One method as I say to be comfortable in the heat is use of unlined nylon or other synth coats and outfits indoors. (Keep trying different materials so you find one that feels really good. They're not all the same and nylon isn't that good because it's clammy but the best I've ever seen or felt or heard is I tightly woven thin polyester shirt I got.)

  I've invented 1000s of inventions and I once invented a desert suit that uses two layers of polymer sheets with a water pump that continually reuses the water and sprays it out by evaporation inside the layers yet no water is lost. The heat of the pump powers the water and it cools. This the same method that causes misery in winter, used here for its advantage in summer for you! As solved above by the woovie (see above for winter); the moisture builds up and cools you, so it can be used for the force of good in the heat, MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU!..So to save more heat in August, you may find to your celebration as I have, an unlined suit works almost as well as a store Air Conditioner, "and the store labors well also" if you live out west and e.g. your house has no AC where you can use all of these methods if you like..

 (I sympathise a lot about global heat even though I think it is caused merely by the sun burning hot as in the 57 million year interglacial age between the dinosaurs and the ice age. I believe the events that man have caused are only about modulating this heat by way of dust or whatever, and when the sun burns hotter Mars and Neptune which have lots of carbon dioxide greenhouse gas heat up or cool down accordingly but no other time than this. 

And synthetic nitrogen which a third of the world's population need to survive has been increasing and it has 600 times more greenhouse effect than carbon dioxide and we don't see a 600 times faster rise of global temperatures. 

I'm not conservative but I am good at science and I believe this for  non-political reasons.)

...this method (as above for cooling) is like the method used by nomads on the sahara, the coat is dark and has a moist area of shade inside, except by this method you have reduced insulation compared to cloth and retain more moisture, and I find it's comfortably cool if my room has 81 F in the days of summer inside. If you don't have enough moisture yet or to start if the nylon is dry, exercise is  of worth and to keep it clean smelling, just wash with Dawn dishwashing spray as above from the spray jug it goes right through most nylon or polyester and your house will smell good. Even while the nylon or polyester are permeable, they also hold enough moisture for real comfort if used indoors in an 81 F room. I use like a polyester jacket (better than a polyester shirt since it's thicker so it holds more moisture yet it's not much more insulative as you may have found with disdain in winter but it can be your boost in summer. You can wear this with a hat because it's often not so thick as nylon so it has reduced insulation and seriously, it cools like a high end air conditioner or a fan, yet even so unlike the fan you can use it around the room at no cost. The cool from a fan or going for a swim only lasts an hour at the most, this method is portable around the room for constant relief even away from the fan. For hot days, I put on the light polyester jacket when I wake up in the morning while it's cool. By the time the room is hot the moisture builds up more than enough to stay cool, and I often wear it all day. If you're still hot while you wait for the moisture, you can also turn on the fan and/or spray a towel and rub on your shirt (water directly sprayed on your shirt is more uncomfortable than dispersed on the towel first) Or turn down the air just a degree to get cool if you like and then just turn it back up and it retains the cool for all day. 

The beauty of this method is if you're hot and perspire,  you've used this your advantage it then cools you down!

 And once you're comfortable the comfort lasts more indefinitely than like a cooling towel and the heat relief is all over you unlike the towel or other methods often seen on other sites, if you also use crocs shoes and a hat or hood of the nylon or polyester jacket.

 If you're still a bit too cozy on a scorching 90 degree day out, walk around the room... the flow of the air on your moist sleeves will cool you a lot! I don't dry the moisture with the fan it keeps me cool to save on the rates without it...

ABOUT COOL FEET OUTDOORS AND IN

I trick I use and these are almost all my own tricks on this site (of yours if I'm renting not buying a 2500 horsepower heat pump!).. for cool feet indoors or out is to use shoes like Crocs two or three sizes too large which are often the cheapest to get and  wear low socks. For real cool feet I simply spray them with water through the holes and the water doesn't all evaporate so it recycles like in the rainforest just a few hundred feet and then back down in loops and so to save a lot of moisture to cool your feet. This won't work with socks like on sandals because they dry out fast.

Inside these type of shoes

moisture is retained more so it doesn't dry out even while it's cooling your foot with enough room to breathe. 

This works great indoors especially with the fan or walking around the room and another good method as I say above for keeping your feet cool when your dogs are barking in the heat is to put on boots filled with water. You can't walk around in them but you'll be more than cool enough in a half an hour and you'll want to take them off. 

For cleaning issues while you are walking on sudsshine spray in the shoe with a one to three Dawn/water blend. 

The evaporative sock/shoe trick works best for hours indoors or out and as I say even better with the fan and inside I use the cooling poly jacket shirt and outside I use the ice water jug. But for my feet both inside and outside I really like the cooling feet trick.

This is because your feet are your body's thermostat, and in the summer where you don't have a cozy outfit on this works well to cool you all the way down especially if used with the cooling jacket and the fan if needed and also the cooling ice water jug outside.

At night you want to use the cooling sheet with water sprayed on it and also the fan perhaps with the ice pack inside  something like a bag to protect your skin for your pillow.

  It's deep cool that lasts for hours even in the heat without AC. 

 Total cost for this plan about 2 dollars/month for the detergent, 60 cents for the fan and 2.00 for the 1 hour of AC at 74 if I want even so these later methods make it unnecessary, or just 4$ or so a month!). The Dawn is anti mosquito, it's hydrotherapy, it's cleansing and odorproof, it's cheap, and for indoors at any rate, it's COOL.

I had thought of taking a box fan and framing it into the foot of my bed so I could just turn it on and off with my feet at night. This gives a lot faster and cheaper relief than AC. And I even thought of a computer in the bathtub and you type in with-RIGHT swim fins!

Another method you might use if you like is if you nail wood to box the box fan in the frame of the bed and then buy a cheap motion sensing plug in, just wave your foot while you're asleep or stomp your hands and clap your feet or vice versa clap your feet and stomp your hands! Or I had thought to buy a motion sensor well while I'm awake at the S&L rate of rates! Or just plug this into an oscillating fan and roll over while you sleep anytime you overheat so it cools you down!

If you over cool in the afternoon with the cool outfit, just step outside in the heat for a bit so you modulate, and it's warm. You can also modulate with a dry outfit. While I find a wicking polyester outfit more comfortable than nylon because it distributes the cool more evenly, you want to experiment because each item has it's own characteristic that may fit you best. Some outfits are more wicking than others and I have a poly lined outfit that neither gets hot or cold. This method of moisture retention is cooling enough you can even use a short sleeved shirt inside the outside so if company biz shows up, I just remove the outside shirt and wear the inner outfit "for looks". I only use a fan to save power (not two) and only at the end of the day to dry out. For good looks I don't use the hood of the jacket, instead a cooling hat or wrap is best with my outfit, what if my rich and famous relatives show up! 

 To keep my feet cool with this method I use"crocs" and you can get cheap, way cheap! and these have bubbles in the EVA (polymer) that maintain the heat level, if you want more cool just add a spray a bit of water on the shoe.

 There is this method of nylon or poly indoors in the day with the fans at night and then it's cool enough to sleep more dry with usual methods which is more comfortable after being more moist in the outfit all day and with the airflow station on the waves. 

(If you have street noises, toggles ("cord stops") like in coat lines you see at Goodwill make great smooth earstops, comfort is otherwise an issue, foam and all if not most other earplugs are a complete gyp, anything [almost all ear attenuation sold including most super expensive  AN you can't sleep inventors have devised an AN sleep hat also once however since I believe the science of Antinoise AN may improve] is complete junk unless its like NRR (Noise Reduction Rating) 32 most are like NRR 28. Tie the stops through the hole where the coat line would go with shoelaces and then sew them and keep them tied around your shoulders and you have great earstops 24/7 and if you want more seal yet I use beeswax and non zinc denture adhesive (zinc is a poison) on a cotton swab inside the plug for a more soundproof seal, like for speech. The best safe ear wax I've seen are German product called Orhopax they've been making since the early 1900's. Petrolatum basically a mineral is like having a rock in your ear that gives a really good seal but it's been outlawed in Europe as a carcinogen like candle wax.)

Using a more water saving outfit like above is only viable for daytime use indoors and it won't be of worth for nightime use since you lay down on your bed with insulation on the bed side so the heat builds up and this isn't as breathable as just walking around in the room in the day. It's not viable for outdoors either but is fine inside where it's not so hot, outside needs other tech. Even so the other methods (like the ice jug outside [they're too cold on skin for use inside] or ice packs made of 100% waterproof ice filled bags or packs inside a bag I use that are designed for  laptops) work both for PM and outdoor use and this solves the rest well. PM just turn on the AC an hour or two or 30 minutes if you wait till the house cools down so it stays nice and cool all night at lo cost, costs 4 cents then sleep all night no fan needed, this is here in the N of the S half way up the coast. No doubt if you live in Ohio your results may be otherwise!

As I say above for a therapeutic foot soak and and also to counteract foot winter itching a good trick is to take a rubber boot and   slosh around with water. This radiates out the heat from your fire dogs 20 times more and it's great for winter itching, in August! And just generally great for saving on AC.

For house odor, I highly recommend not just a washer but also a dryer. I wear just a few sets of outfits inside and wash these often. Not wearing other outfits except to go out and social events totally stops house odor this is useful in winter also. Electric clothes dryers cost 70 cents an hour to operate. So for no 30 digit heating vendor bill I keep use down. You save a fortune on outfits, your house smells clean if you wash the other ones once and the used ones often in rotation, plus you have all the good outfits at low cost. I also wash just the few outfits by hand in my stainless steel kitchen sink with Dawn and baking soda, great for dander, and this soaks the stainless steel clean. The web recommends baking soda for stainless steel also and I use it with a steel bristle brush and this works well for like rust, even so washing out the sink with the outfit as a cheap washing machine is even better with the baking soda for this use. If your cozy outfit always hugged you why say goodbye and hello to more trips to the store to buy more. I've saved 52 trips with Reno! 

Why the outfit method works at 80 F..

You see discussions on the web about whether you really are cold in the winter if it's wet, and so it might seem like if you have more moisture around you like the outfit you would be just as hot as the humidity. Wet skin feels 5x cooler than dry and water radiates more heat. I think of this as like having a swimming pool around you in the heat. It's much colder or cool enough if the wave is thick enough, even so a mud puddle out in the heat will soon be dry and I imagine a shield over the puddle would make it stay much cooler longer if none of the water removed. The rain forest of Amazon is cool in the shade enough for most species to live there. If it was miserable there would be more life elsewhere and the rain forest reuses the rain over and over and it only rises a hundred feet or so before falling again as rain.

Certainly below like 75 or so it's even more comfortable to remove the suit and use light outfits and a fan, and outside the pool isn't thick enough of the wave outfit of poly or nylon.

But indoors to save heat at 81, it's viable and comfortable.

OUTDOORS HEAT

Postal workers are hot in the summer and I sympathize, and a spray jug might seem to be of worth  and the lady who sends us the boxes of gold coins, and the deed to a condo in Fla and winning lottery tickets said the odor in her car would need a solution so I suggested vinegar and this would seem too sour. Dishwashing liquid, like "Dawn" with biodegradable anionic surfactants 2 parts water/1part detergent in the spray jug, might be just the solution if you have reduced room in the heat. It chews up dander and has a great scent, and it's cheap. More than 1/2 detergent/water will clog up the sprayer, this is often recommended on the web to also stop ants or other bugs even dust mites as I say on my other anti dander site, hope your life's a celebration in the heat at all speeds of inspiration!

DEEP RELIEF; SIMPLE CHEAP POWERFUL METHODS TO STAY COOL OUTSIDE EVEN IF IT'S 90 DEGREES! 

If you have to go outside and it's 90, a method I use is like a 64 oz juice jug, fill it with hydro and watch by the sink so that when you lay it sidewise so the water  is level a bit below the mouth of the jug, it has no ice at the mouth. I tilt my jug in the freezer so it's a bit more optimal, unlike a non juice jug water bottle of the "old-fashioned" type you won't damage it by freezing, not filled more than half so the jug isn't damaged even so.

 Once frozen overnight or in an hour or so, this method gives deep cool outside for hours, real deep relief! I was using this method of half wave half ice chunk inside the jug for a way of hydration without having to load ice cube trays all day, all in one so I just add the wave and then brew more of the brew or with other flavors at the right level of 57 flavors so it wasn't always so hot or cool, about ice water, Nirvana means well, hope so!

The beauty of this method is it's cheap, simple and it's like a super comforter like a solution out in the heat, without so much heat or insulation. It seems better than the cooling towels (even so I list this option below) because you don't have to go through the more messy way of filling with the water, and it's 10 times cheaper and easier to use in general. I lift it on my shoulders, and around my back, inside my arms, believe it or not it gives DEEP comfort on a 90 degree day if you move it around even for an hour of continuous use! You want to only use half or say 3/5ths ice in the freezer and the rest is water. Ice alone isn't so cool because it doesn't get as close to your skin as water from the ice, shake well for more cool (or less if you want to conserve). You do have to keep moving it around or it's too cold, ( Caution is advised if you have any circulation or other health issue, you may get frostbite without knowing it. Use at your own risk.) If it's too cool like the spring except out in the heat (it is after all a chunk of ice at 32 F) for my own use I move it from the ice side to the water side, and or hold it with just a reduced zone of contact, say the jug lid and levered to an edge of the jug on my chest. And I was alternating between the side with ice and the side with the wave for "optimal weather control". Even so if you drop it it won't break, it has safe hydrous O the cosmic solvent, and I can drink it as the wave as it melts if I want and 

it's fresh while you could even have flavor if you like you still have to refill otherwise.. You can use a bottle with a handle (I just use an orange juice jug I hold around the edge beneath the cap as they designed it so it's got the handle in a more simple method) and tie it around your shoulder with a band so it won't scratch if you drop it above the concrete. (Actually this dropped since the band broke. So I used a cotton cloth bag with shoulder loops and this not only stops drops and flops by storage; it, the cotton, also reduces the bite of the chill on my skin if it's like 75 or 80 in March not 90 where I use it right straight from the bottle! Since I may be out for  hours I use a neoprene bag as heat insulation (see above, WINTER not outa hors devours!) tied with line through punched holes for a cinch. I also use a good looking nylon bag for this when it's moderately hot. When it's 90 or above I want to take it out of the bag and have it directly more in contact.

And using the second bottle by insulation from the backpack makes it so I stay out with it, double the range I can walk, if I also am right where I live while I am alive when I revive from the smoke alarm on OCT 35th! This weighs 64 oz or 4 pounds each, so if I go on a trip to the store like for talking for exercise and a brain boost with the relatives I either do a near trip like 30 minutes to an hour with heavy load and one bottle or for more distant trips two or more bottles as in my backpack and a lighter load. If you have a machine, (I'm like an SUV exercise with spinners that won't retire just yet) you can carry a days worth of them if it's 90. I don't know how this would be in the desert, you'd have to cool more in the freezer and it wouldn't be like 90, even so I imagine this might save the lives of a lot of people in the future who go out in the desert with an Ensulated cooler or some other type of insulation of value. (Ensulation is https://www.wazoodle.com/fabrics/zorb.html

 type of double layered insulation that saves 97% of the heating and cooling cost if used in a house.)

I've also read about a new kind of white Christmas well, "bisthmuth" coat. It reflects 80% of the heat by reflecting lots of wavelengths.

For best results I combine the ice water bottle method in a nylon bag with straps I got for 50¢ from the government surplus store near where I live. You might love to combine this with a spray jug with a heavy-duty sprayer and all you have to do is cool in the refrigerator before you use it. I also combined my sprayer with a silicone sleeve on the outside you can get by buying sheets on Amazon for about eight. The silicone will keep your jug from losing heat hours more in the heat.  Even so this turned out to be not that much so optimal!

I tried a cooling vest for a year, I spent a week in Ohio one month! These do work but sometimes they do overheat and they don't stay clean with ease and the jug is more mobile, and you can cool any hot spots because unlike the spray jug the cool time is like 30 seconds before you get hot again for that area which is enough time to rotate all your areas you want to cool. All other methods like the spray bottle I tried have only five seconds of relief and this doesn't allow as much reaction time for the loop. The jug method is far superior to all other methods I had tried. 

Even Better....

I use a backpack with pouches sewn in for cooling packs between my back and the box or best may be a vest (this is heavy). Other cool packs may work but I like ice because it's a PCM material (see below "Why Not Phase Change Material" [of chemical type]) and ice stays cool and comfortable longer than other methods.

This hybrid method, the jug ahead and the cool pops for cooling shoulders works best for me. The pack presses in and the jug does the rest of the labor. The best pack for durability isn' t a backpack or duffel. Instead I bought like a medium travel suitcase the ones with handles and wheels and that have a durable frame. These aren't so flimsy and won't wear out since the frame is more solid and its not much heavier and the frame makes it easier to load stuff in like hot dish at Xmas. I had to cut holes for belt loops two high and two lower. While the belts are much easier than usual backpack loops to adjust (major problem otherwise) in order to stop with ripstops I sewed the right cloth around the edge of the lower holes. Zippers are always a problem even with a travel box like this. So you can sew the base of the zipper together with awl twine (see above about advantages of awl twine and how to) and use the rest of the flap as- a flap! If the zipper goes out on the rest (mine never has on this type of box with a strong zipper you pay a bit more but it's worth it ) salvage salvation is yours by simply sewing a hook and like a d ring (like for belts) of which you can get 25 on ebay for 5 .

For going out in the heat you may like a spray jug of water on your face arms and legs, this is moisture also, and a powerful heat shield, spraying water on my legs was an early temporary method

I found for raising my low blood pressure with CFS Cool Constricts Capillaries or CCC. While this gave definite relief from the heat and CFS, Activive and UDG are far more powerful for my CFS. This may not work for you and is about my own experience. This is not medical advice, please read my disclaimer if you have any doubt! Thanks.

I found my spray jugs were clumsy to load with the water as I often had to use them, and they would come untwirled three times in 30 minutes so I used a thumbtack as a "lock" inside both the outside and inside through the side of the cap of the spray jug with a piece of tape (not duct tape) wrapped round where the thumbtack locks so it stays in the screw cap of the spray bottle, the lock is locked with a lock with a lock! How to write a book about how to write a book about what! And the best method is you can cut an opening below this and above the body of the jug so you then for use just pour water in through the side above and it won't crash and burn in the heat. (this often would damage the sprayer while I dropped it) And with the hole in the upper body you can also pour water in fast and have a drink anytime if you want more. A cool way to store the bottle is in the refrigerator with the spray handle looped over the wire shelf, takes up not much deep shelf space!

As I say I use the spray water jug also for my legs, and the bottle is like for my arms face and shoulders and the spray goes around my legs so it wraps around feet and legs while I walk and the water doesn't reach my cell phone or mp3 above my legs and it's simpler than spraying. Even so my my best method these days is to just use the cooling shoe with the water on them and the socks. This with the ice water jug is my absolute best yet was many moons of practice, because about 17 football players die in the heat of practice each year, an invention that cools the hand which is the body's thermostat also as well as the foot has been devised.

Some inventors have thought of sprinklers that football players would wear on their hat and their shoulders and each time they stump their feet they would cool down. They don't wait till they overheat and then they go to the ice jug at the bench.

Actually because the body has many thermostats like your shoulders and your hands or your feet, wearing a portable cooler like with their feet might be more safe and effective.

Certainly just using the ice water jug with this and reaching both the hands and the shoulders with the jug is enough for me as I go out for walking in the heat and as I say above it's good to be walking to meet my neighbors and also tell them jokes as I see them and laugh and also lose weight.

The ice bottle method also saves more water for conservation in the W and other areas also! While the ice cube jug is GOOD on a 92 degree day, it's even more so a REAL boost on a mild like 85 degree day, and these are more often here where I live.. With the spray it's wet and gets mildly annoying for both arms and legs since they heat up in about 10 seconds in the heat so needs constant spray power and the bottle is simple and gives DEEP RELIEF, I may call I Dream of Jeannie on her bottle with my own, the rain storms aren't boiling, they are high steam! 

Note that your refrigerator costs about half the summer electricity so you may only want to use a medium size jug and only one if you go out an hour a day if you're also saving on AC in summer. I also remove no essential stuff like water bottles from my refrigerator I don't really need to cool. To get access to easily clean my shelves of the refrigerator I use like poly storage boxes with low sides (like 3") and handles. This makes it easy to slide in and out  so you can reach all the way in by an easy method. I've seen refrigerator clutter reduction sites that say to use a lazy suzan, but susan has exercise and yoga thanks to pa! And the trays fit in best and you just slide them in and out with a deeper box in the base with the lid and another tray in the bottom for more storage access. Another good trick is to put some refrigerator shelves with reduced spacing and store your juice jugs sideways in these, and I also use the lid of a storage or poly shoe box like the trays to put these jugs on and just slide in and out to find out easily what's inside the shelf where I can't always see. One advantage of trays with low sides is they contains spills well more than mere wire shelves. These may leak...

~~~~~

Poly shoebox lids make a great simple way to keep kitchen shelves clean. They have an area below for air circulation and no need for unsanitary kitchen shelf mats. To clean, sort the shelf  using the methods I discuss here (or see link below) so you speed up cleaning and sorting speed up to 500% and then pick up the poly lid and spray with one hand with the sink sprayer, and dry with a towel with one hand. No more constant scrubbing to keep your shelves clean!

ABOUT COOLING TOWELS..

These are not as high in my rating indoors as the cool shoe inside and out with the polyester outfit inside or the ice chunk outside method since you have to keep re-adding water two or three times a day, and out in the heat this isn't as good. Another problem is they aren't as satisfying as the bottle and spray and you have must stuff them inside your outfit for most comfort, and this reduces your ability to rehydrate, and to cover you all over would cost 300$ plus the huffing and puffing, and stuffing and hydrating it. While they are not as valuable to save AC indoors, they might be of worth in the hot most of weather using in combination with the other methods above...

Why Not Phase Change Material?

Using these methods gives all over body comfort and other methods you hear about, like say a cool pack, aren't as satisfying or cheap. I've read that high sci methods like the PCM (Phase Change Material) vests are just a vest that insulates about as much as it cools and they cost hundreds. PCM is promoted as like ice and water; they stay at the same phase of 32 ft/second or 32 degrees OR 32! for a long time till all the ice is melted. PCM's are supposed to be a gel that achieves this at a different temperature. The idea is you put on this heavy vest with lots of gel packs at say a cool 75 degrees and it stays this way for hours, no hotter, no cooler. But the ice cube bottle is far cheaper, far cooler, and it isn't so heavy it's also a PCM material at 32 degrees. With the ice cube jug you have room in your refrigerator left over. The ice bottle method lets your skin breathe continually and it has no insulation which is also of value.

(The definition of a PCM is a state of matter like water and ice that stay at the same temperture (32 degrees for ice water) using up all the heat to melt it, only then the temperature rises. This is the same as like a PCM except they use otherworldly compounds at other heat levels than 32 degrees. So a PCM seems to me to be a glorified version of the ice cube jug, just much more expensive, and perhaps more unsafe because of the risk of the compounds used in the vest or gel that would leak eventually.)

Possible ways to make money with the heat you save here for the methods above from this site....

RICH RICHES ALMANACK!..

https://ecmbiz.blogspot.com/?m=1

How to Achieve More Control of  your Life,  General

 By using an AZ index and a Sub Directory you can often find what works to solve problems like this hisped improved, more worth, well, won't say which! If a felion sips ginger fizz you're non alkalion!

 The good thing about an A to Z, if like I did you have complex problems, and you start your search for this or that solution, all solutions are yours to keep if you find them, say like me you have gone through two or 15 possible solutions to this problem. Now that I may have found it (activewear, blanket liner and silicone great for winter with heat retained) I have it written out in trials and errors in my A to Z and then mapped in synopsis in my Sub Directory. This brings most of my knowledge about the given problem and solution right up in high contrast. All the progress achieved is in reach, and findable fast anytime the problem reappears. Great for rapidly comparing both your experiences e.g. side effects and cautions of herbs if it may seem new but if it isn't. Instead of making the same goof twice or more you only make it "one time". And learn as I go.

This is a powerful method as I say on the link below, especially when used with searches on the web. You can make a Tool Box in about 20 minutes, and add inserts to expand as needed or wanted.

  Click here for how to build your own machine of this type, essentially a paper computer, not a blog, a hand powered audio volume!

Yes you can have your cell phone and be moderate. As promised here's the link about how to dramatically reduce your cell phone overuse and you'd have all the cool links you like and even be able to do social media without eye strain that's damaging everyone's eyes and causing the myopia epidemic!

WWWWWWClick for my methodWWWWW that also may reduce your time online so your phone is less vulnerable to hackers. Hint: avoid unnecessary apps and do all banking offline..

Go Here for the Zorb /PUL site great insulation/ base layer make your own and save..

A sample Ebay Waxed Awl Twine Site, Much easier and more durable than common thread Click Here..

Potholders/Pocket warmers/oven mitts for 1$ YES YOU CAN barbeque outside in a drift and Handle Hotdish at xmas in Smug Comfort

 Silicone Sheets for 1$ (Ebay Page)

Click Here for how to save your teeth plus a mechanical simple cheap easy way to improve additives like sugar from your teeth while you eat.

Ebay zip front cycle shirts Click Here..

Amazon Bootie for inside the Neos overshoe, Go Here.

Sample Neos Overboot page.. 

More about Clay

Ebay Patch Page To Save $ On Actionwear/Outfits For Life

Here's the Ebay Link for The Army Blanket Liner

A simple safer cheaper way to remove pests like ants or bedbugs from your house without any scrubbing at all and with minimal labor, I haven't seen an ant yet..

Simple Method To Clean and Sort Shelf Clutter at 5 Times the Rate

Posted by starship orion at 7:16 PM 

Labels: Comfort, HEALTH, How To Keep Feet Warm, Perspiration, Saving Heat Cheap in Winter, Saving on Cost of Clothes, Staying Dry, Temperature Control Year Round, Winter Sleep Comfort, Year Round Comfort

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How to Achieve More Control of  your Life,  General

 By using an AZ index and a Sub Directory you can often find what works to solve problems like this hisped improved, more worth, well, won't say which! If a felion sips ginger fizz you're non alkalion!

 The good thing about an A to Z, if like I did you have complex problems, and you start your search for this or that solution, all solutions are yours to keep if you find them, say like me you have gone through two or 15 possible solutions to this problem. Now that I may have found it (activewear, blanket liner and silicone great for winter with heat retained) I have it written out in trials and errors in my A to Z and then mapped in synopsis in my Sub Directory. This brings most of my knowledge about the given problem and solution right up in high contrast. All the progress achieved is in reach, and findable fast anytime the problem reappears. Great for rapidly comparing both your experiences e.g. side effects and cautions of herbs if it may seem new but if it isn't. Instead of making the same goof twice or more you only make it "one time". And learn as I go.

This is a powerful method as I say on the link below, especially when used with searches on the web. You can make a Tool Box in about 20 minutes, and add inserts to expand as needed or wanted.

  Click here for how to build your own machine of this type, essentially a paper computer, not a blog, a hand powered audio volume!

Go Here for the Zorb /PUL site great insulation/ base layer make your own and save..

A sample Ebay Waxed Awl Twine Site, Much easier and more durable than common thread Click Here..

Potholders/Pocket warmers/oven mitts for 1$ YES YOU CAN barbeque outside in a drift and Handle Hotdish at xmas in Smug Comfort

 Silicone Sheets for 1$ (Ebay Page)

Click Here for how to save your teeth plus a mechanical simple cheap easy way to improve additives like sugar from your teeth while you eat.

Ebay zip front cycle shirts Click Here..

Amazon Bootie for inside the Neos overshoe, Go Here.

Sample Neos Overboot page.. 

How to save $200,000 over 30 years using a pressure cooker and eating good healthy food that doesn't cause health issues! A pressure cooker pays for itself in 6 days and after that you're getting $70 or $80 a week in food money saved indefinitely...for how this money can multiplied over and over as you think like the rich..

CLICK HERE

OR Cut and Paste this link to your browser

https://theocfs.blogspot.com/2023/06/how-to-save-up-to-200000-in-food-costs.html?m=0

Another way to save heat! On my General business page about how to invest in crypto and rare and bullion coins, unlike real estate where cash flow stopped in 1971 no lawns to mow around and no plumbing needed. 200,000 dollars of gold, the baseline between large and small business weighs 6 lbs and a million dollars weighs

 just 40 lbs. While I'm not selling anything and this post is for information only. If you make just 10 percent on crypto you make 100,000 per trade. Some altcoins are going up slow and steady at 4% per month. Month after month you might make 50, 000 if you have 1 million. It's much easier to make more once you have more like this.

Click HERE For More.

More about Clay

Ebay Patch Page To Save $ On Actionwear/Outfits For Life

Here's the Ebay Link for The Army Blanket Liner

A simple safer cheaper way to remove pests like ants or bedbugs from your house without any scrubbing at all and with minimal labor, I haven't seen an ant yet..

Simple Method To Clean and Sort Shelf Clutter at 5 Times the Rate